Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Im sending out my rear axle to a driveshaft shop to be straightened and balanced. Upon removing all the axle parts like many others, I too damaged the sprocket hub while pressing it out.

My question is ... is the aftermarket aluminum sprocket hub as durable as the factory steel hub? I dont care about its strength as far as its shear rate but i dont want to rebuild the rear constantly if the aluminum splines wear out against the steel axle splines. I do know as far as wear, steel would last longer than aluminum. Question is how much sooner will it wear out?

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Xparent Blue Tapatalk

Posted

from what i have read in some of the honda forums, the sprocket hubs (OEM) are made from a lighter material to begin with, as to wear out first before your axle. the main thing that wears them out is insufficient torquing. i saw also that guys will use gorilla glue on them, but have a harder time removing them if need be. the the hubs are usually a light press fit new, so thats why proper torquing is so important. and a little trick if they are worn, a strip of an aluminum pop can around the axle...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By LMI
      Hi all.  New to the forum & quads.  Seems like a great place full of info.
      I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700.  I need a battery.  I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types.  I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire.  RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140.  Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
      from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS.  How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
      And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
    • By HHurks
      Yesterday I got a UForce 1000 as my first bike and I am wondering if there are any owners that could advise where I can find budget parts and accessories for it.
      I tried looking StarknightMT, but the filtering is a bit unreliable, so direct links or exact names are much appreciated.
      I'm mostly interested in sliders and side cases, but any advices for "must haves" are welcomed.
      Thank you!
    • By HoldenBoy
      Hi all,
      Looking for some help on a starter/bendix issue. Can Am outlander 450 2017. While cranking to start, the starter spins and engages into the ring gear. After a few seconds the bendix retracts while still spinning and there is no damaged teeth on the drive pulley.
    • By rjsummer
      Just picked up an 84 LT185 ATV, I understand there was an accessory add  on that gave it electric start, anyone have any info about that kit? 
    • By sandman001
      Just picked up a 2006 Dvx400. There is a switch I can't figure out what it is or where it goes. Has 3 wires (light blue, black and Yellow)

×
×
  • Create New...