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2001 Yamaha Warrior 350 - No Spark!!! Help Please...


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I have an 01 350 warrior I'm getting no spark.. There is issues with the bike someone before me hot wired ignition, bypassed fuse, pulled e brake and senser... I put the proper ignition in it. I put the fuse back in checked the harness retaped it up. To turn it over i have to jump the sileniod the push start does nothing... I ordered new cdi box cuz friend told me that is my problem. I havent recieved it yet.. Any suggestions? I have meter to test stator but dont know wich wires to test or how to do it exzactly

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...I know this may be an obvious thing to check, so just wanted to note:

I have chased strange ignition issues in the past to find that the "kill-switch" was shorting-out or that the main switch (key) was failing.

Testing these switches with a multi-meter is pretty easy.

Another obvious thing to check is the battery terminal/starter connections.

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..also before doing an Ohms test check all switches & connectors for continuity.

Make sure that there is enough voltage coming from the battery system (approx. 12.8v).

After testing lights switch, engine stop switch (kill), starter switch & main switch do an Ohms test .

I think that this will work for your bike but not 100% sure.

Ohms testing with meter:

Disconnect the coil connections from the wiring harness & connect to meter.

ignition

spark plug gap = .8-.9mm or .03-.04in

main fuse = 20amp

primary coil = (+) orange to terminal (-) ignition coil base >> (Ohms x 1)

primary coil = (-) spark plug lead (+) ignition coil base >> (Ohms x 1K)

primary coil = approx. .18 -.28 Ohms (at 68deg F)

secondary coil = approx. 6.32 -9.48 Ohms (at 68deg F)

pickup coil = (+)red (-)white approx. 450 -561 Ohms (at 68deg F)

charging (source) coil = (+)brown (-)green approx. 270 -330 Ohms (at 68deg F)

lighting coil = white-white approx. .702 -.858 Ohms (at 68deg F)

Disconnect magneto connector from wiring harness (check all 3 wires)

stator coil CDI= (+)white (-)white approx. .702 -.858 Ohms (68deg F)

starter

motor armature coil= approx. .025 -.035 Ohms (at 68deg F)

relay coil= approx. 4.18-4.62 Ohms (at 68deg F)

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I've done all the basic shecks but im thinking the kill switch could be bad the light switch works but dont know about the rest? I just got a multi meter gonna check everything with those specs Thank You i will up date the status.. I have put a new coil on it and put hole new fuse block and all in to eliminate that i pulled harrness apart tapped few of wires that had bare spotts.. I put new key switch in as well..

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...if you have a bad ground connection or a bad battery cable, it can cause this.

Did you check the starter connections & battery terminal connections?

I would check the main fuse again & maybe replace that housing.

To be sure you could take the whole wiring harness off, clean all connections and put it back on the bike.

Then before connecting the positive battery lead, do the groundhog test.

>turn your back & connect the wire to the terminal- if you see your shadow you have 6 months more work to do

Edited by old_thumper
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UPDATE... It is running but I need to clean the carb it only stays running if choke is held open.. The front side of timing chain is loose any tips to tighten it easily ? but it def has improved a $200 bike is now $400 not bad long as i can dial it all in.... Any ideas is appreciated ... lol

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