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Looking for Arctic Cat ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Arctic Cat ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Arctic Cat ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Arctic Cat ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.
The following Arctic Cat ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
By Craig Butterworth
Hi, i'm looking for some help and advice with my arctic cat quad, its the first of the arctic cat quads as far as i know, manufactured in 1996 the bearcat 454. i have owned the quad for about 10 years now but just recently it has developed a problem with reverse gear, reverse wont engage any more like it used to 😕 the cable and handle is free but there is no movement the gearbox end, can anyone give me a heads up of what is involved to fix this? 🤔
If anyone has a service/repair manual available for it as well that would be greatly appreciated! 🙂
By Bobby Kitchens Jr.
New arctic cat owner, I've read alot on the gauge issues, but let me say I have power, good ground, the aux also has power, the memory has correct voltage but no output of any kind. Only the LCD color works. I have also fully removed EVERYTHING and cleaned it all... what I still possibly have a cut wire knowing that I have good power to the back of the plug and good ground to the back of the plug but no outputs of any kind?
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be.
It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
I like to ride in wooded and grassy areas. It takes my mind off the everyday routines and helps me deal with my father's cancer. Also gives me a reason to get involved with forums like this one.
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