-
Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
-
Similar Topics
-
By JacobSlabach
got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price. one of which is a yamaha warrior. anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike? Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet. The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work. he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears. things I see: clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box. I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first. also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts. Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last). any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like. lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris
-
By MarkinAR
Passing thought here and thought I'd pitch it to the group for debate. I'm working through a Kodiak which is basically a Big Bear in a heavier bike and the same as about anything Japanese made for 30 years as far as clutch function and design goes. This Kodiak is odd though in that the centrifugal clutch slipped a bit with good clutch material remaining and the main clutch pack seems to slip a bit as well at high RPM but also still has good clutch material left. Much like the Kawa race bikes from what I've read. Do you think it's an option to add a thin washer to the pressure bolts to put a bit more pressure on the main clutch and force it to use a bit more of the clutch material before having to replace? There's seriously like 50% of fiber left on the main clutch pack and it seems silly to replace it all before it's truly worn down.
-
By Jay Reddick
Hey guys, need some help with my 2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 4x4. Was riding and it started smoking below the air box and then Caught fire. We got the fire put out quickly with a fire extinguisher. Many of the wires below the air box got damaged. I purchased a new wiring harness for the atv and replaced that as well as any other damaged cables or parts that burned up where the fire was. I also replaced the regulator, the ECU, and the starter solenoid. I also replaced the stater since some of the cables that went to the regulator were damaged. It acts like it will crank but it won’t turn over. The fuel pump initialized when I turn the key so it’s working. I’ve spend $1500 on parts and no luck yet. Any suggestions?
-
By Bruce Sawyer
1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once.
Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms.
I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ??
This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward.
Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates?
I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage.
Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????
-
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought a 2006 bayou 250 for 200 bucks, kid couldn't start it and had no idea why it wouldn't run, I pulled the rope and felt what I thought was valve to piston contact, he wanted 500 and I talked him down to 200 and brought it home. Sure enough, timing was way far out, timing chain incredibly loose. So for fun I re-tensioned the timing chain and re timed it, got about 120lbs of compression, pretty low. I cannot get the chain very tight but the the tensioner seems to work fine, the chain guides don't look very worn. Also, when I took the head off the valves don't look bent and the piston has no discernible marks on it. Is this an interference engine? I sure thought I felt some contact with the pull rope but maybe no permanent damage was done? Anyway, I plan on doing a full top end job as well as timing chain tensioners and hopefully that'll cure it. Is there any reason other than chain stretch (I measured it and it's ok) or guide wear that would cause the chain to be so loose? Thanks!
-
-
-
Similar Tagged Content
-
By Bruce Sawyer
1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once.
Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms.
I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ??
This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward.
Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates?
I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage.
Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????
-
By mrfartsalot
i have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 that the primary cvt clutch is rusted on any ideas on how to get it off i want to try to reuse it if possible.
-
By Tyler Autry
Recently started shifting hard from neutral to first causing it to stall. I'm able to lift up on the shifter and throttle up and slowly let off the shifter, like driving a standard. That is the only way to get it In gear and stay running. Also if I come to a stop and keep it in gear it wants to continue moving, eventually stalling out. I don't have much experience with the bottom end or clutches. I just now replaced friction and steel plates and that made no difference. Don't know what to do now.
-
By Ulf Löfstedt
I just bought a Yamaha Big Bear 350 from 1992. The previous owner has run it on regular engine oil and I have problems with the clutch slipping. I think that's the reason.
So what should I do?
- Just change oil and it will be OK?
- Clean engine/clutch + new oil?
- Or do I need a new clutch?
It is guessing the centrifugal clutch that slips. It has two clutches , it also has a "regular" clutch .
Anyone who has any experience of using wrong type of oil?
-
By Thunt56
How do I replace the pinion clutch shaft in a 1987 Suzuki LT230 quadrunner? It starts up on the first kick but when I put it in gear it wants to kick up. I can give it gas and put it in gear but my clutch lever isn’t doing anything. SOS
-
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
