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Similar Forum Topics
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By N00bie
From Arkansas. Just bought a 2012 Gator 850i RSX because I could not pass up the price. BUT it has an idle problem. So, to be honest, I joined just to get a service manual. I have a choice: 1)Buy a hard copy: ~$100; 2)Buy a CD ~$35.00; Get a direct download for free posting 10 times; or get a download for $29.00 (subscription). Haven't decided what to do yet.
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By semicolon
Hi, I am having issues with my TRX350D fuel pump. It suddenly stopped running so I have replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals. I have fitted a new pump, fuel cut-off relay and rectifier. Still nothing!! The pump runs when attached to a battery. The engine will start on the choke and the filter fills with fuel but it will not rev and dies when the choke is closed. I have power to the relay but nothing at the pump black/white wire when cranking the engine. Any ideas where to go from here would be very much appreciated!!
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By ResQ91
Hi Guys!
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Or ??
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
Dave
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By skittle021
So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
Photos:
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By kiriyaaoi
Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves. From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match. I have no idea what this would cost.
2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
#1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option. However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number, 11100-19B10, instead of 11100-19B01 like for all earlier models. What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years. Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical. Would those work as well possibly? I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on. Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
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