Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

timberdoodle

1999 king quad 300, right frnt wheel lock up

Recommended Posts

when it has been threw deep water and then sets in freezing weather, the right front wheel locks up, can get it loose by putting it in four wheel to break it loose then off tot he trails but any idea where t look for the cause or the leak that is causing it to lock up must be getting water in somewhere on the break drum i think that it shouldnt.. any help would be appreciated..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I have 2 machines that do this after they sit for awhile. Even above freezing. I hit the face of the wheel with a hammer or large rock to loosen it up. I think it does have to do with water and not just from the ride. I pressure wash pretty aggressively after riding and spray the inner wheels. I probably should ride them around a bit before parking them, but usually just put away wet. Suzuki engineered sealing the wheels poorly so water will get in. I run them with the drain plugs removed because I want to be sure the water gets out. I also fear water being trapped in there when it does freeze. I dont have an answer to this yet and probably wont because I plan on phasing my older machines out.

Suggest pulling the wheel hubs off and make sure all his clean and the braking system is working right. Change the pads if you havent in awhile.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well i got the symptoms from the frozen frnt tire, took and used the hammer trick to free it up and then proceeded to take the wheel off and saw the area where trouble began.. but in the process found a seal on the wheel that appeared to be filled with grease as i was cleaning it out.. had some thin shreds of rubber in the center of the gasket towards the backing plate and under that it appeared to have a heavy grease either prefilled or maybe it was just hand applied any ideas as to what that was from or if the gasket is filled with grease.. thanks for any info on this..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are talking about the brake drum periphery seal, I dont see anything in the manual about greasing it. The only source of grease in there would be from your wheel bearing area.

I know some Honda models have a drum seal designed to be filled with grease for the purpose of sealing water out and it works well. Perhaps someone thought it try this on yours or you have an after market seal or one for a different wheeler on here. If you dont have evidence of water contamination, then it might be working.

Is there any grease on the brake drum surface or shoes? If not, Id say re-grease it as you found it.

The shreds of rubber is normal wear as it spins in contact with the brake panel. If it looks excessive, replace it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By 2urb0liter
      Looking for front wheel assembly (hub, axle, rim, tire) for 1982 Honda ATC 110. 
      Let me know what you have and how much shipped to 58504. 
       
      Thanks!
    • By PolarisRich
      I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
      Here's some of the tools you will need...

      1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.

      2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.

      3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.

      4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.

      4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.

      5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!

      Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
      For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
      Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
      6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.


      7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.

      6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
      7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
      The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
    • By Johnnyhorsepower
      I finally found an awsome app for your phone that shows you on a map all the trails near your location. You can read or add reviews, look at picts...etc
      Its called: atv escape

      John
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • Guest Fox300exchic
      By Guest Fox300exchic
      The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
    • By skgw1
      Feul pump went out. Replaced. At times quad cuts out like its not getting gas. Saw article on new pump needs to be calibrated. Told how to go into a service mode. Does not tell how to calibrate after going into mode. Can anyone shed light on this procedure.
    • By katasha2
      I took apart the carburator to clean out and I can't remember exactly where the springs that are inside the float are supposed to go I've tried to look up schematics but I think I am missing a spring maybe need helpt:confused::confused:
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...