Should be on the bottom of the engine near the shifter, there is a sensor. And also a relay near the fuse block and start relay. Take a look. I attached a few pages form the manual of a warrior that should be similar. You can also find the manual to that bike on this site in the upper right tab and go to downloads.

The rectifier if shorter aka burnt up may be causing a grounding of the electrical system and could knock out the ignition circuit. I would correct that and see what happens. And also go through the entire harness. Maybe it’s hit, damaged corroded at a connector and also the kill switch assembly.

The guy I got it from had hacked the wiring harness at the stator thus why I bought a harness and new cdi and stator

* Topic moved to Polaris forum.

Check all your connections and check that ignition switch. * Added ATV info into your topic title.

No it won’t hurt the bike. It’s to determine if your battery is getting voltage back from the engines internal charging system. Fuses on that bike should be located around the battery but shouldn’t be difficult to locate. What model and size is the bike? If you have the manual you can locate the fuses.

Engine oil: 0W-40 Mobil 1 full syn engine oil Transmission: 5W-30 Mobil 1 full syn (you can use many different things in the tranny, its just a some gears, chains, and bearings) chaincase oil, dex 3 or 6, GL5, or engine oil Coolant: any conventional green coolant works mixed 50/50 Brakes: Dot 4 brake fluid, valvoline Rear final drive: Valvoline GL5 75W-90 syn Front final drive: if its a hillard drive (mostly 2004 and newer polaris models) then I use polaris demand drive, if it has hillards on the hubs (2004 and older polaris models) the I use GL5, some people use ATF type F or ATF dex6 but I find I do not use much of the fluid so I just buy the polaris stuff.

You need to test the charging system components, stator coil, regulator, the manual will tell you what the readings should be. A standard ohms test will tell you what’s going on. Also look for the easy stuff like damaged wires, blown fuses. Make sure that the battery itself is not bad also and that there is an accessory that’s not draining the battery. Plow ? Lights ? Also: You should have voltage on the positive and negative battery terminals when the bike is running without the battery in place and a tester clipped on to the battery leads.