Well.. Most bikes, the gear-change lever does have a connection/linkage to the a clutch so when you change gear it self clutches.. as long as the clutch is adjusted correctly. This is a second clutch with plates in it, not the main drive/takeoff clutch which is a centrifugal one. You can test this disengage feature by shifting into gear but don't let the lever return to it's center position, keep holding it up with your toe, now give the bike a few revs(enough to start moving usually) and then let the lever down. The bike should lurch forwards as the manually operated clutch takes up. If that clutch is disengaging correctly, and at the right point in the gear-change operation, that is, it should disengage before the gears start to mesh/shift, which you can test for(very carefully), by giving the bike a few revs before trying to engage gears. If the clutch is adjusted correctly, the clutch will have disengaged before the gears try to mesh, and there should be no loud graunching if you engage gear slowly. It might clunk into gear because of a bit of drag on the clutch, but it should go into gear. If that second clutch, the manual one, not the centrifugal clutch that normally does the drive engagement, is ok and adjusted correctly, then yes you can change gears with the throttle open. It's always a better idea though, to throttle off momentarily, as with any vehicle, to save the clutches and prevent harsh engagement of the spinning gears.

Well that's' exactly what I did, (take a picture that is) and the ninth digit that is stamped is an 8. I found a thread on this site with several different decoders that I used. every one of them accept the first one came back a 2011 500. The first one came up no records found. I've looked on the base of the motor and can't find anything with a cc number. I guess it could be on the backside somewhere that I can't see. Also if I read what you said right about the 8 should be a 3......then there would be no 8 to equal 2008. I have the 06 - 09 450 limited manual but that don't tell me any more than I already know. I guess the only way to really tell is to pull the head off and measure the cylinder bore.

When you get the manual, check in the back in the supplements for the variations between years. Also, that frame number says the check digit is incorrect.. The ninth digit should be a 3, not an 8. I always photo the plates and then enlarge and brighten them and things to be sure I'm reading them right. Everything else though seems right/feasible. 5 = England market S = Suzuki A = ATV A = ATV M = 400-499cc 4 = Four stroke single 6 = 6th model version A = 10th version 8 = Check digit.. Should be a 3. 8 = 2008 7 = Factory.. I'm not sure which factory. 1 = From here on is the six digit serial number of the bike. 0 0 7 9 5

The engine number, or a number at the bottom of the cylinder, should confirm it's a 450... The number on the cylinder might say something like 489cc.. It will be slightly less than 450. If it says 389, you've got a 400, or of it says 748, a 750.

Ok well my books say it's an English version, from 2008, and looking online checking the rear brakes, fuel injected and water cooled, it looks like what they call a... "LTA450X Kingquad 4X4 Limited" . I checked here.. https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/suzuki-parts/motorcycles There's a manual for that right here.. Check that and let us know...

well.. you cold give us your frame number and we might identify it. Or.. Have a look at a few parts here... https://www.mickhone.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/2011/lt-a400f#next If you find a part that looks right, click on the arrow over on the right near the price, and it will show you what other models that part fits. You can deduce which model you have by comparing the parts fitted to the various models. You can switch years and model at the top of the page. That site is Australian though, and they, and us Kiwis, don't always get the same model in the same year that you Americans do.. Once you know your model though, and can identify it from the other similar models of different years or markets, you'll soon figure which manual you need. Check through the model years till you find the start of the fuel injected models, which can be identified by their fuel pumps. Then start refining the search to four-wheel drives and either sport versions or workhorses. Look at the suspensions and the drive-line. Checking brakes can be insightful too. If you can identify your model from that parts site, or any other parts site, we can probably direct you to the right manual to download for free.