Very good.. No trouble. Glad to be of help.

I don't have any faith in spray on cleaners. They wash grease off and leave switch contacts nice and clean, if it's only grease causing a problem, but I don't think they clean up dirty corroded connections like a wire brush or sand paper does. If that board is the connecting place for the various lengths of wire involved, then check the spade terminals they all fit onto, and if there are parts riveted together, check the join between the two riveted bits carefully for resistance. Sometimes boards or fuse boxes get dirty where the wire connects on the back, and the fuse holder or other terminal on the other side of the board or box. Wires can corrode also where they crimp into their terminals.. Sometimes poking a pin through the insulation an inch back and checking for power there shows up the problem.

I use electronic contact cleaner for the switches and connections not sure what mass air flow sensor cleaner is , never used it, but it should work. Sounds like it is electronic cleaner.

And so is it still not maxing out ? The reason I was saying to move the needle was because apart from possibly being all that was needed, it is a test.. If it improved things then we are on the right track, if it made no difference or made things worse then it's something else. The charging system can fail in several different ways, and sometimes they cause a ignition cut a lot like rev limiting in cars, but they can also start putting a huge strain on the engine, so it feels like it's seizing as the revs go up, but then freeing up as soon as you let the revs drop slightly. You should test the power wire to the regulator, it has a join inside the wiring loom, and you should check all the earths. Resistance in any of those wires can cause problems. There are seven and five wire regs and some have more than one 12v connection, one being a switched 12v.