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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/17/2024 in all areas

  1. That would be nice if it was just a partially shorted kill switch, well not nice, but better than chasing other options around.
    1 point
  2. Most of it doesn't sound like tappets.. There are rattles and clunks.. haha. It misses completely. Does it run better if you open it up further P52 ? I'd still recheck the valve clearance though. I've got the adjustment wrong before and they've gone out of adjustment in just a few minutes or riding.. It happens. And they can work tighter or looser.. Depends on the bike and how they were adjusted. I'd also check the spark plug gap and the spark plug cap's resistance.
    1 point
  3. Yeah i figured you had done that, but just thought i would mention it, the 2 turns out sound right , but i have had to adjust some i have worked on to 2.5 to 3 turns out to get it right. You may be OK with that. Back to the noisy top end, if these are known to have premature cam wear i would do as Mech suggested and try setting the valve clearance. There could also be some cam chain noise you are hearing, what type of sound it it rattling or a thud, or click click.
    1 point
  4. The valve adjustment might have changed. If the valves have worn the rocker then adjusting them with feelers doesn't work well. The feeler doesn't allow for the wear because it just bridges across it and you end up with the feeler measurement plus the wear clearance. If the adjustment isn't right, things hammer and quickly get out of adjustment again. There are a couple of ways of setting valves accurately. One is to use a dial gauge to measure the movement of the rocker, and the other is to check what the thread pitch is on the adjuster bolt, and then calculate how much of a turn it would take to get the correct clearance by backing out from from zero clearance. I set bike valves though by feeling the clearance and through a combination of feel and sound I know what the clearance is. Once the clearance is right, it stays right for a long time. If it's wrong it changes fast.. and that is true on most valve systems. Other than the valves, read post #18..
    1 point
  5. Has this problem been previlant since you bought it or is it a new development.
    1 point
  6. You have cleaned the carburetor good so we know thats good now, just one thing i might mention, there is a jet down in a hole thats easy to miss when taking apart sometimes they are hard to get out, you might check that. The other thing is the mixture adjustment not the idle speed, it is in the front of carb on the bottom, sometimes there is a plug you have to take out to get to the adjusting screw. You might have done all this already, just thought i would mention it because it does still sound like fuel delivery. You could also try a new plug and check to make sure its got a good blue spark. Check all ignition wiring to make sure not corroded or loose. I couldnt see the video! I know it get frustrating at times, but too early to give up, we are here to help.
    1 point
  7. Yeah all forums are great for getting the low-down. I'm, well was, a self employed mech in the rural and before the internet it was a nightmare trying to get even basic information like a read of the service manual. Now you can just go to a model specific forum and ask what's the common fault and often they will point you straight to the stupid obscure fault, or you can download the manual. That common fault information is the sort of knowledge that once only service managers at dealerships accumulated.. And manuals used to be dealer only once, till the japs figured out that was counter productive and deterred people buying their cars. The internet certainly is a huge boon for all of us.
    1 point
  8. No trouble. I've pulled heaps of those and similar fittings out of carbys. They come out and go back in easily and give no trouble. If you still have trouble with the pump. let me know and I'll post detailed instructions for testing the pump.. I have them already written up.
    1 point
  9. You need to swap the pump ports over or drill out the new one. They come out easy. use a spanner or pliers and turn the port and pull at the same time. Try to rotate it as little as possible because it has spiraling machining on it to help it stay in, They need a little rotating though to help them come out. Take the old one out first to see how it's done. The old one will push in firmly and be fine but if you are worried use a little loctite on it.
    1 point
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