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I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

Nothing beats a cigarette, Wish I still smoked The 02 sensor was bad (threads were stripped and it fit loosely in the housing but wasn't the real problem. Can disconnect both 02 sensors and no change. Throttle cable not really adjustable and IAC is integral to the throttle body and not serviceable.

It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.

You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

Not sure about the dial thingy but it should have a knurled thumbscrew on the side somewhere to adjust the ilde speed, and the idle mixture screw is at the front underneath and hidden up a tube. Did you check the rubber inlet manifold wasn't split, or that it doesn't have an air leak somewhere ? Tight valves can make them hard to start and not idle well too.

Welcome everyone! Sorry for the community being down these last few days. We ran into server issues with some database corruption. It took a few days to restore everything.

The fan gets switched on when the oil temperature gets high. The fuel pump gets turned on when you first turn the key but then switches off unless it's getting a pulse from the cdi. The pulse from the cdi is the same pulse that fires the ignition coil, so if you have spark, you have the required pulse to operate the fuel pump relay, you just need to ensure it's getting to the pump control relay. When wires have no continuity, or have high resistance, it's almost right at the end of the wire where it crimps into the metal terminal, it either corrodes or breaks the wires inside the insulation. Wires do sometimes break if they have been chafing for a long time on something and worn right through the electrical tape, insulation, and then the copper wire, but that's easy to spot by the frayed insulation.

I will definitely consider voting for him….although I haven’t spent much time reading up on him. I won’t vote for a radical, even if they are saying things just to cater to a particular group to secure their vote. It’s either him or my vote will be not to vote. Kind of wish they would go ahead and throw Trump in jail and get it over with so we can move on because I would definitely vote for Haley. And yes, I realize that most of the stuff being thrown at Trump is political….but his behavior after the last election and the classified docs thing is a non starter for me. The classified docs thing is criminal. And yes, Biden is a criminal in that regard too, that just means they should be sharing a cell. Doesn’t mean they cancel each other out.

That is the problem with this machine. Everything is in the throttle body ($1,200+). Haven't found a vacuum leak.

I have yet to find a free manual. The TM109919 is for all years so the 2014 would be fine. So again, what are my choices (cant find a freebie): 1. Post a bunch of worthless posts just be be cheap and get the manual for free 2. Buy a manual on eBay for about $30.00 (a CD) 3. Buy a download from some other stranger for $25 4. Donate $29 to you folks. I think I will choose #4 as I need it now, Maybe you folks will have the parts manual too and make it double worth while.

Hi and thank you for accepting me . I am a crofter in the Scottish Highlands with a Honda TRX350D and a Yukon 150. I need help with the fuel pump on the Honda so will be pestering you all soon, cheers, semicolon😀

I always like reading these motocross articles, thanks for sharing.

The black plastic knob attached to a cable is for adjusting the idle speed, not sure about a dial either unless that is whaat you are calling it. It sounds like there is still gunk or trash in your idle circuit jet or maybe the emulsion tube ,did you take that out and clean it. There is also a hidden jet down in a hole thats easy to miss.

👍 You are welcome, glad i could help.

I think this one also covers the Kodiak: yfm400fwa{M}-2000 copy.pdf

Update. After taking the carb back off and closer inspection I noticed that the throttle plate was opening to much before the main needle jet even moved any. I have attached a picture. The linkage arm that connects the two had so much play in it that one was opening and the other wasn't doing anything. You can see that I have the idle adjustment screw all the way in and it still wouldn't idle and the choke plunger didn't have any affect when trying to start it. Anyway, By putting a carb kit on it does nothing for this linkage problem so I went ahead and bought a new cheap carb. Put it on, works great. The air/fuel screw now works and the choke and idle screw actually does something. This type of thing can be a gremlin to find. Thanks Mech and Gwbarm.

Good work Admin. I'd give it a "like" except... "like"s not working.. haha.

Decisions like this should be made after careful consideration. I'm skeptical of the CVT transmission myself, but time will tell. Historically, Subaru have been tough little cars. The mail route drivers up here like 'em. Do pay attention to tightening the cylinder head bolts and changing the timing belts on schedule. Good luck!

Ha.. And the price we like too ! Good score..

Great you found them

Start the bike and operate the choke.. You should be able to hear if it's working, or doing nothing. The choke only sucks fuel up when the throttle's closed. Soon as you open the throttle the vacuum drops in the choke circuit and it doesn't lift the fuel right to the top of the venturi where the discharge for the choke is. So it could be on and only go rich when you throttle off hard. It does seem unusual to have fluffy dry soot that fast. That's definitely rich though.. Oil looks wet black. You have got fresh fuel haven't you ? And a good grade ? The compression is probably meant to be nearer 175 Lb but that's warm and with a full open throttle and cranking at the right speed. If it comes up to it's 125 in the first couple of compression strokes it's a good sign. If it has to be cranked a lot and slowly creeps up with each compression stroke it's a bad sign. You could put a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole, give it a quick spin with the starter or pull start to distribute the oil, then do a compression check. If the oil raises the compression a lot it points to rings, not valves. Having a tight or leaking valve doesn't normally cause dry fluffy sooty spark plug. Leaking rings doesn't normally cause that sort of soot either.. Only fuel does that. Some bikes say what size the jets are in the parts manuals. You can look that up online, or in a service manual.

Thanks Gwbarm and Mech for your input. I also am having a hard time believing these plugs are fouling so quickly even if rich fuel. I did a compression check initially but the motor was cold and got a 125 reading. That seems to be good but I didn't check that when motor hot. This has a Mikuni carb on it and I put a new kit on it. Yes, I've read alot about those aftermarket kits not having the right size jet holes and things but, Damn, I have no way of telling if the hole sizes are correct. I'm almost thinking about putting the old jets and seats back in it. The choke on this is just a manual push/pull knob type. It's not automatic but it sounds that way when I start it. You don't think the intake valve not seating good would cause this do you? Like I said, it runs good.

My newest vehicle is a 2004 F150 with 300K miles. My daily driver is a 1987 F150. I'd head to the hinterlands with either one, but I trust the 87 more. The CVT transmissions seem too much like wizardry to me, but I prefer the older technology that does not depend on computers. I've worked on vehicles and then a computer manufacturer doing repairs. They're just too delicate AND there's the sensors, wiring, and programming that can fail. Check the prices/availability on a replacement transmission before ya think about buying a car that has one. The people that bought electric cars are choking at the price of a replacement battery. As I've told owners of some cars, insure the hell out of it, leave the keys in the ignition and a dollar bill on the seat. Ya better hope ya don't come back and find two dollars on the seat.

I just had a Suzuki lt 230 quad runner do pretty much the same thing. Riding and bouncing around stirred up junk in the gas tank. I flushed it and it was fine for a couple weeks. Started doing it again , so I flushed the tank again and got more junk out of it. This time I put a inline filter in it. No more issues.

I know this post is a couple months old, but have you had good luck with these carbs? I had bought a cheap one on Amazon awhile back for a mower, and it seemed ok for the short time I had it...🤷🏼‍♂️

I am glad to be here and join in on this community.

What's up everyone?!

Welcome, and good luck with your Bayou, let us know if we can help.

Howdy y'all. New here and excited to get a dead Bayou 220 back on the trails.

Welcome to quadcrazy, there is a lot of info here.

Hello, I just joined this forum I look forward to the knowledge of other people have. I got a vandalized 99 Suzuki LT F250 quadrunner, so anyone knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much!

Welcome to QuadCrazy!

Welcome to you as well!

Being new in the quad family it is nice to know there are places like this I can learn and get help

Hi all, I am new to this site and joined because I am always looking for help and ideas for my restoration projects I do. Also just enjoy riding around in my free time

Yeah, a couple of my friends have sportmans as well, they seem to be good quads. I helped one of them fix their speedometer after they ran it with a dead battery and blew up some components on the circuit board.

I think you will enjoy, the site, a lot of good information here, sportmans are nice , good luck with it.

Hi everybody!

Hi. I am new to this site. I am at Mariato, Panama and recently purchased and am rehabbing a 2010 Polaris Ranger Crew 800. The frame was eat up with rust so I have a local welder fabricating what needs to be replaced.

Hello, Just came across this forum, always nice to find one that is still active. I'm a farmer with more projects than time to do them, always seem to have some form of three wheeler or quad in the shop. I have a (probably bad) habit of buying old ATVs and ATCs that need work for cheap so I'm always looking for some kind of information or advice on how to keep these old beauties running.

Most of the above. They took the plastics off and looks like they disconnected every electronic cable in the front. They also took off the throttle cable and unit, took out the airbox and disconnected every vacuum tube in that area. Closest I can tell is they were going to remove the carb but never got to it (though I will probably need to since there is still fuel in the tank and probably in the carb that has been there for who knows how many years). Thankfully, the engine is still all together. I can turn it over using the hand pull after opening the vacuum release, so it turns and seems to have good vacuum (though I don't have a vacuum tester yet to see what it really is). The front brakes don't do anything but the back work well. I am needing to download the manual (once I reach 10 posts) to begin to really look at it. Hoping to get a battery attached to it soon so I can begin to see if there is any power to anything and begin figuring out the wiring to re-connect it.

@kp3004x4 - We'll need a lot of help, I'm sure! I've worked on bikes and small engines, but not on something that I haven't taken apart and was this complicated!

Yeah - it will be fun! Every tube and wire on it seems to be disconnected. But, it is a project for my son and myself so no matter what happens, it is worth it. Once I get the manual, we'll see if we can figure it all out.

Its always a challenge putting something back together that you didn't take apart, but with the repair manual and the helpful people on this site its very doable, im doing the same with a Yamaha.

Welcome Adam. I joined recently and have found help with my 2004 Suzukin LT80. Lots of good resources.

Hello everyone. New here and trying to learn everything I can. Bought my first atv this weekend. 94 Polaris sportsman 400. It needs a little work but only has 540 miles! Excited to learn from you all. Adam

Welcome Larry, great place to learn, really good people , always willing to help and share experiences.

My wife said the same but about 2!!!!!