Frank Angerano

That is correct and although not really a good job its ok.  A bigger drill bit i would have used.   Anyway under that brass cap is your air fuel screw.  
 

Depends on the year.  Top of the engine and they look like the pics attached.   Should be two of them.   

What year is it ? 

I remember that one @MarkinAR. That sucked!! My bayou 220 had the same problem as the one on this topic.  I just pulled the valve cover and caps, added silicone and i was good to go.  
 

Quality gaskets are key in any rebuild! 

Pull the valve cover off and wipe everything down so there is no oil, apply high heat silicone on both sides of the gasket.  Put it all back together and tighten the bolts down in a crisscross pattern and let it dry good.  No clamps or anything.  
 

If rings are bad you would be blowing bluish smoke.  Same for valve seals.  

You could technically pull the spark plug wire off and crank the engine and spray the head down with windex to see if your getting bubbles or any substantial pressure out of any place but I don't think thats going to show much because its prob a low pressure leak. 
The crank case has a breather hose, have you checked that it's properly venting and not kinked or clogged? 
The only other way i have ever traced an oil leak that I could not see was using graphite or talcum powder. I literally squeezed the tube in the area of the smoke.   The powder sticks to the oil showing a trail.   

Now, aside from and before you do all this you can simply pull the valve cover off, apply a coat of high heat silicone on both sides of the gasket and re install and see if the problem stops.   If so its a warped valve cover. 
Let it dry 12 hours ! 
 

Hey @Jonathan Barboza   Start a new topic in the forum so it's easier to track your problem and responses. Right side top drop menu and click on forum. 
Make, year and model and what the problem  is and we will see if we can help you along.

Welcome to Quadcrazy.  
The top of the head has two valve adjustment caps. Have you checked them? They have small rubber rings underneath them they get flattened out and go bad. I would check them clean them off good put some silicone on them leave the gasket in place and bolt them back down.

When you rebuilt the engine im assuming you changed the valve stem seals ? 

Lastly is the valve cover itself. Have you checked it for any warps or dents where the gasket is not sealing the gap? This can be done by pulling the valve cover off and placing it on a flat surface and slide a piece of paper around the edges  to see if it slips under the cover at any point. 
 

Lol I bet. I was wondering about clearance and never even thought about the gear ratio.  

Hey @Ryan Hutton welcome to Quadcrazy. 
So you have the belt housing off, is the belt tight or loose? 
Can you get all four wheels off of the ground and see if it will run and and go onto gear? 
Not sure on your atv but is it full time 4x4 or do you have the selector? 
 

My kinda trails! 
Great video.... 

Looks like a beast.  
Dam those 28's are big! Any clearance issues over rocks and bumps ?

Part numbers coke back the same for the 06 and 07. 
 

First pic os 06 second 07. 
 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/polaris/atv/2007/phoenix-200-a07pb20aa-ad

Ok, hows it running? 
 

Very nice work! I love making sh** work! Nothing better then taking some leftover stuff you have laying around and using it. 
👍🏻

I hear ya, if you can get proof that the warranty is still in effect and they will cover any breakdowns then i would say stick it out  for a year and let them do the maintenance.  Heck its only a once a year thing anyway unless your putting a lot of hours on the atv.
 

Something along those lines.  Its a low speed turning that releases compression out of the exhaust valve.  When the rpms come up it dose not allow the ex valve to open. 
Thats why i think if you pull the plugs and crank the engine its a good indicator as to what's going on.    

Tie rod ends and possibly ball joints.   Alignment is a must upon completion of this work.  
Didn't you post this problem once before? Same car or different?

Yes on the cam itself there is a spring actuated decompression device.   It works on centrifugal force to help the starter out.  In some instances the spring breaks and the decompression will not work.   
 

There are a few different types. Pics below. 

Your welcome on the help but its no biggie. 
The decompression lever is usually at the top of the engine.  Take a look there for it and definitely pull the spark plug and see if the starter will crank the engine.  It could be a broken spring on the automatic decompression device which is located on the cam shaft.  But that depends on the model and if yours has one.  I would have to look at the manual to verify.  Im just going off of the top of my head on what a lot of the atv engines have built in.  

That sucks brother.   

Cant help you there brother. Not familiar with other forums. Im sticking with my initial diagnosis of a CV joint.  Go make some tight turns and see if you get the noise. If so its a CV.  

Yep, wait till i post pics of all the meat! 

Absolutely will draw air intake on the bowl with a bad bowl gasket.  What happens is you get a corrugation of fuel and air going up into the needle.  Its like a carbonated effect. 
I would shut the fuel off and run the engine dry. Unscrew the bowl drain screw on the bottom of the carburetor to get all the fuel out. Wipe down the edge of the bowl where it meets the carburetor and run a beed of silicone around the seem.   Let it dry good over night and reset everything back as it was and fire it up.  If it runs good then you need to put a new rubber gasket on the carb. 

Thanks @06kfx440   I call them my Paris lights lol. For some reason my yard looks like Paris!!!!!