Frank Angerano

Wow strange. I will double check my bike when I get in and the spec on it. See if that can clear anything up. But there should be a reading in the 500 range I think. I will check my bike see what I get

You should get an ohms reading on the pick up coil. That’s a little strange. Can you post a pic of the plug you are testing

Yes it should pending that nothing is grounding out the system killing the ignition system. Like a direct short, crushed wire, burnt wire or a wire thats worn against the frame for so long that the outer jacket has worn away exposing the inner conductor this rubbing against metal “ground” on the bike. Test the stator to make sure it’s good. Go through it all again. You missed something. Take your time and and be patient. You will find it. Go through the manual and trace/test each section of the system.

Go to the downloads on the top right side of the site and find your model and download the repair manual. Go through it and trace out the wires and system. You will find it.

I agree. Usual suspect are the stator coil inside the engine which comes with the pick up coil. Second suspect would be the cdi which is usually a moisture issue due to cracking. Third is regulator and fourth would be the secondary coil coil going to the spark plug. And I’m assuming you replaced the spark plug and checked all fuses ?

Wow that was quick. Well I would get a tester ready and start going through the wiring harness either from the battery up to the ignition or vice versa. There has to be a wire off or plug someplace that’s not properly connected hit or broken wire etc. take your time and go through it. Stupid question did you put the original regulator back in with the orignal cdi after you warmed it up ? Also when did this problem start ?

Ok well hopefully it was all installed properly and a non defective coil. The oem cdi you have is that the only one you have ? Orignal ? I’ve learned that most of the time the cdi will not work with any moisture what so ever. Aftermarket ones do not work well or at thays why I recommend oem cdis. If so try to heat that one up in the oven. It works! Not as a final fix but at least It will let you know that the cdi is bad.

Very cool! Is the mount long ? Does it spin when you angle your head ?

If the only cdi box you have is the orignal one you can cook it in the oven on 250 deg for 10 minuets and let it cool for 5 min, try that if you get spark then you know the cdi is bad and need replacement. When you replaced the stator do you replace the pick up coil ?

I would stick with an orignal equipment manufacturer coil since I’ve used an aftermarket and had problems. I’ve attaced the specifications on the resistance for the 400 model but should not vary much.

Oem cdi or aftermarket?

Ok no problem we can figure this out. The kill switch have you checked and make sure it’s not shorted ? And also checked the ignition coil with a tester ? The wire going into the spark plug ?

Replaced the stator coil?

Have you checked the stator coil?

Thanks brother.

Thanks @Ajmboy and @davefrombc for the assistance. 2A329187-60FF-413A-81B6-2DC3CF0CD0B3.MOV

All done and no knock! Tg.

Great to hear. Happy riding !

Halfway there ! Coming back together! Thank god for beer and country music!

Flying pieces for sure!! Thank god I had the old head to practice on! Valve seals done. It was not that bad, I made a jig to press the valve down and changes them out. The inside of the valve chambers were in great shape I attached a pic. I feel batter knowing the seals are done. It would be a shame to have a bad seal after doing this. New head and cleaned up cylinder is ready to go in. Maybe later tonight. I posted a pic of the old cam as well. Super discolored and def scorched.

I think you have to go through all of the wiring with a tester as well as make sure all wires,plugs,grounds are properly reconnected. Especially because it’s a rebuild a wire could have gotten hit someplace. Second if the bike runs take the battery off and run the bike and test for voltage on the terminal wires. Lastly I would reinstall the old rectifier if you still have it and try that. Look for fuses etc. Aside from that you will have to look into the engine to verify that the stator is working correctly and all of the components were installed properly. Get the bike back and try those few things and see what happens.

I hear ya. I just took a look it seems pretty simple. I ordered a spring compressor form amazon just now. Be here tomorrow and get it done. Thanks again pal for all the help.

Awesome replies thanks for the help @davefrombc and @Ajmboy I think I’m going to stay with the orignal piston only bc the compression was great and no smoking or oil blow by. Also your recommendations. What’s your thoughts on the valve seals on the replacement head ? Put in the new seals or not? I have them but honestly I have never done them before. I’m not sure how this head performed on the last engine.

While the bike is running take the battery terminals off of the battery and test for voltage with a tester on the terminal wires. See if you get DC voltage and if so what is the voltage?

Thanks @davefrombc for getting back to me. The cylinder looks good and piston is ok. Usual wear nothing out of the ordinary. I was just thinking why not throw a new stock piston in since it’s opened up. As for the head goes I heard a small knock when the revs came up. After removing the head I noticed the rocker arms and the journals were beat up pretty bad plus that waving pattern so I assuming that’s where the knock was coming from. The cam looks discolored from heat. The lobes have scorch marks. I decided to pull the cylinder only to check the piston and the main bearings/connecting rod which all looks good. No metal shavings of any kind in the oil. The crank and main bering feel good with no play. So do I put it back together with the orignal piston? The head I got for it although used is in great shape. The gasket set that i have also have valve seals. What’s your take on that since the heads out? Change them ?