Frank Angerano

Sweet bike good luck !

This is a loose or corooded wire/connection. something that’s been missed! It could be the battery wire, the part of the wire that’s crimped to the connector at the battery or the connections to the relay etc. I would take each connector off one at a time and inspect for corrosion and put a pair of pliers or crimpers and tighten up just to be sure. Then go to the starter button on the handle bars and make sure that the contactor on the start button are good as well. Use contact cleaner as well . Process of elimination.

The two black wires on the brake lever ? A parking brake that has to be pulled in for the bike to start? I don’t think a bike of that age would have that. But double check. Also the kill switch. Simple test is to look for the two wires that kill the bike. Most are black with a white stripe and all black. You have to put a continuity tester on the two wires at the switch and see if it rings when you hit the kill switch. In order to do this properly you have to have the manual to see exactly what wires to test Have you tried what i said with the cdi ?

Welcome to QC I love bikes that need a lot of work. Be sure to post some pics and any questions/problems you have, we are here to help. Good luck!

Even though you have voltage coming to and from the cdi does not conform it’s working. Two ways to see if it’s the cdi. 1 is find a used on from another bike same type and swap it and see if that fixed it. 2 is try to dry it out and see if that works. Most cdi units go bad due to moisture. Try to put it in the oven for 10 min on 250 deg. Let it cool down and give it a shot. If the spark works then obviously a cdi replacement is needed. The heating it up is only a temp fix as it will loose spark again. This worked for me but I had to replace the cdi bc it def failed again after a day or two due to moisture re entering the cdi. As far as testing the stator and regulator, ignition coil are all within spec with an ohm meter ?

The wheel berings were bad on an old Honda that I picked up. The wabble like you said and also put a good beating on the nuts that hold the hub in place. Try not to ride until you get the bearings replaced. The damage to the axles and the big nut that holds in in place (castle nut) was pretty significant. Although the axels were salvageable the bearings and nuts were shot but not hard to replace. Lots of grease as well when reassembling.

Fuel to the carburetor does not mean fuel to the engine. I would spray starting fluid into the air intake during the cranking and see if it fires. If so then the carburetor has a blockage on the main fuel intake at the bowl/float.

Don’t be afraid to try and move the clip in all spots and try to see how it operates. Also is the float free from any hang ups? If you are confident that the carb is cleaned, properly reassembled and all good with the fuel delivery then you may have to see if the ignition is breaking down as the engine revs highter. Is there a rev limiter on that bike ?

I see you cleaned the tank did you also clean the gas valve at the bottom of the tank ? And also make sure the vent at the top of the tank on the gas cap is not blocked. It seems like it’s statving for fuel. What is the air/fuel mixture screw set at ? And has anyone messed around with the main jet needle setting on the carb slide ?

Hey gator man. Are the new jets oem parts or aftermarket? The jets as far as I know are seated until tight and just a small bit of pressure to make sure they will not come loose. Now as far as adjustment I believe there should be only two screws for adjustment. 1 is the air/fuel mixture screw. This should be turned until snug and then bring it out about 2 and 1/2 turns and leave it there. The next one is the idle screw and that should be adjusted once the bike is running. The air/fuel screw should be slightly adjusted once the bike is running maybe a quarter turn more out or in and can be determined after you take a ride and see how she runs. Was the carb in bad shape and dirty? Also with regard to the jets and mixture screw were the springs and o ring in place on the air/fuel screw ?

I think that the timing is ok based on that pic. I would really break the carburetor down and clean it good. It has to soak and use a fine piece of wire to clean the jets out. A piece of a bicycle brake cable works well in the jets. Have some air ready to blow out each jet/passageway you clean to make sure the path is open in the carb. A small can of that air people use for cleaning keyboards is great. A lot of people say they cleaned the carb good only to go back and do it again so make sure you do it right the first time. The air fuel mixture should be 2-3/4 maybe 2-1/2 turns out from a snug position. I think if you start there and see how the bike runs would be a good way to go with a fresh spark plug. Also lastly make sure the tank is clean and the shutoff valve is clean.

Wow. Everyone is all over the place on this. Great looking bike awesome find lucky you! The cdi is a working or non working component. So the fact that it fires up I would say it’s good. Now since you have all the plastics off and everything is exposed I would take your time and unplug each plug one at a time and clean and add electrical lube and reconnect. A good eye glass screwdriver allows you to get in and scrape clean the contacts of all the plugs. after that go through all the wires that are attached with a bolt or screw, grounds, battery connectors and the starter relay . It’s very possbale that the starter relay is no good and a much cheaper part to replace. Keep in mind the electrical system is big! That means the coil wires, ignition, handlebar controls, regulator etc. do it in sections and move on to the next section. After all this is done if it still does the same thing it hasn’t cost a penny before you start guessing and buying parts and all bad connections are ruled out. Put a fresh battery in that baby and see what you got. Lastly is I’ve had a bad cdi box and one way that it will not perform is if it has moisture inside. Simple stupid way to get that out is to put it in the oven for 10 min on 250! Make sure the oven is on 250 before you put it in and no more then 10 min. Take it out and cool off and try it. Good luck and keep up posted.

You get what you pay for. A cheap pair would have prob not welded well or held up well. Would have been cool If the part had the vice grip name on it where you can see it. Nice work!

That’s a great design. Love the vice grip part. Did you weld that together while that shifter was still attached to the bike ? Usuallly bad for the shifter seal and bad for the electrical system.

There are parts ! I have a guy in PA he is great. He has so many parts etc. if you need anything I will shoot you his info. He ships all over!

So I would first start off by checking for spark. If you don’t know how to do this it’s simple. Take the spark plug out and plug it into the spark plug wire and put the bottom of the spark plug against the engine so it’s touching a good metal part of the head and crank the engine. There should be a good clean blue/orange spark at the plug. If not try the old cdi and repeat. Make sure the run switch is on. If you have spark then great it will be a fuel issue. Try this and get back to us.

Worked out perfect! Bike runs like new. This happenes to be on of the most powerful bikes I own. It’s amazing how theses parts were still available. But in the end 100% worth it and a ton of fun ripping it apart and putting back together. Thanks for asking!

It’s shows the TDC and how it’s done.

It looks good. Check this out maybe it will help.

Cam lobes facing down, sprocket marks parallel to the head cover and the sprocket should have a small hole on the top side about 1 o’clock ish.

So let’s back up for one second and recap. Did you pull the head off of so why? Did the bike run while you own it? reason I’m asking is in my experience I’ve missed things during a rebuild back in the day and had to go back to see where I failed. You are missing something. I looked at the manual and can see that there is only one timing mark that’s labeled “c” ? The lobes state they should be facing downward and there is a small hole on tye cam sprocket that should be on top ? I would go back double check that. If all looks right then I would look at tye triggger cool maybe it’s loose ? Can you post a few pics of the timing marks you see on tye engine as well as the top end cam and sprocket ?

It’s most likely 180 deg out of time. It’s very easy to make this mistake. There are also a few different marks on the flywheel. Make sure that you have the correct mark and make suite it’s on the compression stroke when aligning with the cam. Aside from the few things listed above the only other things I can think of is the timing chain is jumping off of the sprockets ? Or the pick up coil is loose delivering the spark at the wrong time.

Welcome back Allen. It honestly sounds like the engine has seized. I would take the head off exposing the piston and cylinder to see if there is any damage inside the cylinder walls. And maybe go further into this by taking the cylinder off completely. But prior to any of that make sure your not missing something else like the starter bearing or in the stator coil area Did you drain the oil? I have the same bike and it’s reliable and tough. But if there was no or low oil well that’s that! Hopfully you will find out and keep us posted. I’ve been a little busy since I opened up my own company but will try to check in from time to time. Goos luck.

There are only a few reasons for that diaphragm to not open. One being there is a small hole in the actual diaphragm or it’s not seated properly. Two the air flow into the carburetor is restricted at the air filter intake. Three the neede at the bottom of the diaphragm is bent or not sliding in and out of the main jet properly. Four is the carburetor has gotten something inside the main vacuum port or oraface that allows vaccume to pull that diaphragm open “up”. The carburetor works on a vaccume system. When you hit the throttle it’s connected to a butterfly damper. The butterfly opens allowing air to be sucked into the carburetor which in turn has a small vacuum port that goes to the top of the carburetor that sucks the diaphragm up hence lifting the needle up allowing more fuel and air to mix and enter the engine. If that vaccume system is blocked or any one of the above listed items are compromised you will have a problem. I would bet the diaphragm is not seated right or has a hole in it. I attached a link for your use to see how this works. It’s worth a watch. You will have a clear understanding of how it works. Good luck.

It looks like a Yamaha based on the way the engine sits but not sure. Have you been able to locate the vin number on the frame ?