Frank Angerano

Most likely what you think it is. Usually the carburetor is the culprit here, take it off and clean it good. If your not familiar with doing this you can go to YouTube and you will find a ton of videos to help you out. Also some fresh fuel and a new plug should fix it up.

That bike is oil injected? An oil tank under the seat ?

I don’t think your lights will have any issues weather led or incandescent, the winch in any bike however puts a huge draw on the battery and could also burn the stator out if pushed too hard ie runnning the winch too long especially with a load on it. I would change the lights and hold off on the winch.

That’s a good move. Might as well give it a once over ! 👍

So I would drain the fuel out and take that gas valve off of the tank. You can take it apart , usually a few screws that hold the thing together The main fuel port inside that patcock valve is prob clogged. Be carfeull not to damage the rubber gasket inside. I would also clean the carb as well. I have a feeling that float is not moving freely. Might as well do it now while your at it! Good luck!

Sounds like the fuel line or gas valve at the bottom of the tank has a restriction. I would take the fuel line off of the carb and put it in a can of some sort and open the valve make sure there is good flow. If that is not the case then it would be inside the carburetor like a stuck float or something inside one of the jets. Thats easy enough to take apart and clean out. Was the bike sitting at all for a bit ?

That is so strange. Cool but strange. Ive never heard of any parts being manufactured in iseral or by any Jewish company. I have to look into this now that my curiosity has made this interesting.

Go through it and be thorough, this is also a big safety item. Could cause you to lock up and go over the bars. May sound drastic but anything is possible. Curious to know what you find. Post some pics if u can.

Wow 85’s nice. Does it look like the shifter was ever taken off ? Did it slip down maybe lol it was slammed down ? also do the other gears work ?

Sounds like the break line going down to the wheels is wrapped around something. When you turn it puts pressure on the break line.

Have you checked the valve seals ? Pull the top cover off and crank and see if you have air coming from valve seals. I would disconnect the spark plug wire and put a jumper pack on it and crank the sh** out of it and feel for an air leak someplace. Spray the sh** out of the engine with a good soapy water mix, I like to use what air conditioning mechanics use for leak checks. It’s a real soapy mixture. An air bubble will show up someplace. Im shocked that the timing has jumped like that and would result in the valve slamming into the piston thus cracking the top of the piston or bending a valve. But depends on how far out the timing really was when the jump happened. I would really take a look again to see if the jug, piston or head is cracked as well as @06kfx440 has stated and that the piston is actually moving full rotations.

Have you raised the front end off the ground and spin the wheels to see if they are free? The brakes may be partially locked . Check the rear as well. Also look at the shocks maybe one or both are blown.

Your spark may be breaking down as the RPM’S come up. This happened with my Polaris which had a rev limiter on it also. So @06kfx440 may have a point. I was pointed in the direction of a faulty rev limiter on one of my bikes through the forum here. I purchased this spark tester and put it in line with the spark plug. Started and watched the spark break down/fail as I reved the bike. I removed the rev limiter and my problem was solved. Worth a shot and cheap enough to try. It’s also a good tool to have. Having ruled out the fuel system it may be time to start looking in the ignition system. Rev limiter bad pick up coil stator coil problem regulator cdi box 4 of the 5 above listed parts can be tested and the repair manual will explain as far as how and what numbers should be shown on the tester during this process. I attached a pic of the spark tester.

Something was possibly missed. I’ve done it plenty of times. I’ve rebuilt my carb and put it all back together just to find something that was over looked. It happens. Secondary looks do usually turn up the culprit and if not then at the very least it completely rules out that portion of the problem.

It really sounds like a fuel issue. Have you checked the fuel tank for any blockage ? Maybe dirty filter if there’s one in place as well as a clogged fuel valve at the bottom of the tank. Also could be dirty carburetor problems. I would start from the ya k down to the carb and go from there.

Welcome to Quadcrazy!

Fuel pump and carburetor?

@etsbigbear I’m assuming your starter is getting hot and not working properly. But will work when cooled down. The next time this happens I would try to jump the starter at the solinoid and see if the starter turns the engine. But only do that for a few seconds at most. If you get no spin then most likely a starter. Also when the symptom happens you can also try this. If you have a tester you can see if the wire at the starter is getting 12 volts when you press the start button. Make sure the wire located at the starter is where you are testing. Red lead on the wire at the starter and black lead on a good ground.

That’s 100% a bear tracker 250. I have the same bike. Work horse! Looks like a 2000-2001.

Welcome to Quad Crazy!

I would guess that the petcock has water in there as well and could have started to corrode inside. I would drain the fuel out again and take the petcock apart and clean it out. Most likely going to clear it up.

Also keep in mind that there could be a bad, dirty or loose connection. Even corroded. Check the start button as well. Take the battery terminals off, Clean and reconnect. All plugs, wires and connections should be checked and cleaned. Peocess of elimination.

You can jump the relay by taking a piece of wire and touching the two large wires on the relay. Do not hold the wire on the two lugs for two long. Simply put the wire across the two lugs with the two larger wires and the starter should go. If not then there may be a starter problem.

Have you checked the starter? Also the relay. You can jump the relay and see if the starter goes. If so then prob the relay. The relay is located usually under the seat by the battery.

Check the ignition switch and the plugs going to it. Get familiar with a multi meter and the continuity settings to see what’s working/not. The tester is also good to check voltage. Start going through the wiring in sections. See what has voltage and keep moving from there.