Frank Angerano

Wow nice little find there. I’ve never seen a red frame on the Honda’s. So my guess it’s been sprayed. An sprayed by someone who knows what they were doing I would assume. You can buy a new seat cover and prob find the pull start on eBay but I bet that pull start will be at least $200 !!!😢 As for the carb the kehien carb sounds correct for that bike since they were famous for the gas valve built right into the carburetor but not 100% sure but again maybe eBay for the manifold and the carb used ? As for the faded plastics if you are careful and know how to use a heat gun you can bring the plastics back to the original red. But try a small spot first. A lot of people look for that type of bike to restore as well as the three wheelers. Depends on how much you want to put into it I guess is the question now.

Here’s a shot from the print. Look at the colors and let me know if you have any questions. Hope it helps. 🤷🏻‍♂️

If you have a ground to the light green and 12v on the brown the neutral safety switch is good. You should loose the ground when you put the bike in gear that’s what the safety is for. The next place to look will be the start button. Look for the wires on the handle bars that come from the push start control and follow them down to the white plug. Look for the wires I mentioned in my earlier response at that plug, test them with a meter or test light so you can rule out that portion of the wiring and go from there.

Have you gotten any more work done on the bike ?

Wow great bike I had one way back in the day. Thats a lot of parts you changed. So the pick up coil should be connected to the harness and is set to deliver the spark to the bike when it’s timed correctly. The spark comes from the wiring system and delivered to the ignition coil. The trigger coil is there to deliver that spark at a set time. The ohms test you did puts that part in a good range so I would say it’s ok. The stator you soad was tested and came back good ? How did you test that ? That’s important. And the new cdi you have installed, Is it an oem or cheaper aftermarket? Lastly is your wiring system. It’s possible that the system is grounded somehow killing the ignition system. Have you gotten onto the harness where the kill switch wires are and tested that by putting a tester across the two wires with your tester on continouity and see if you have continuity when you move the switch to on and off. Maybe that kill switch is broken.

Don’t be fooled my two wheel drive quads have always done good in the snow as long as they have the right tires on the bike. I use a good almost like a paddle tread on the rear and good knobby fronts for turning. I also have the same set up on my daughters recon you can see pics on one of my previous posts. I just wrapped up about three or four weeks ago and they did great upstate in the snow. Don’t get me wrong I love the 4x4 but if you have a 2x4 then the tires are everything!

The part you’ve been jumping out is the starter solenoid, that should have two large wires that come from the battery and starter. (The ones you have been jumping) There should also be a small fuse under a rubber cap and three wires on it. A white a black and a black and yellow. The black is your trigger coming from the start button. None of which will work if the circuit is not complete like a safety holding it out etc. on my bike it was the neutral safety switch that held out the cranking of the bike. Your problem may be different but could be. All I did was put a small jumper wire from ground to the light green wire on that small round relay with the rubber boot and the bike cranked and started. You can try that and see if it works. The brown wire on that same relay should have 12 positive, if not you can jump that from a 12v positive and see what happens but only if you don’t have the 12v present on the brown with the key on! The other thing is the start button, they do go bad and need to be cleaned or taken apart/replaced . You can find these wires coming from that start button harness just under the front plastic there is a plug that comes from your switch yellow/ red wire and a black. When you put a tester on both of them wires and press the start bottom you should have continuity on them (ohms) or use a test light and you should have 12 v on one when the key is on and 12v on the other when the start button is pressed.

So with the ignition on you should have 12v positive on the brown wire. The green wire is going to the neutral safety switch that wire is essentially a ground. You can test the green wire to a ground and see if the bike cranks with the starter button. If you don’t have 12v positive on that brown wire then you have to trace it back to the ignition where it gets power from. After that we need to look at two wires coming from the start button. I will explain what wires to test after that.

Yes that is the starter circuit relay. So that should have a green, brown and two black wires on it?

It should be a little quicker then 45. I have a feeling when you get it all back together it will run better and quicker then that. As for the blue smoke 💨 I would think the seals and rings will take care of that. You CANT fix low compression with an adjustment on the carburetor!!!! So hopefully you make some progress and get it back together and ready to roll before some snow comes down!

Ok so maybe it’s the actual start button? The manual can be down loaded in the download sections after you have 10 or more posts in the forum. Some people post garbage and don’t contribute to the site in order to get to 10 posts. Please don’t be one of them. I will look at my manual as I have the same bike and currently going throug the harness to better understand my bike. So before we start are you familiar with trouble shooting ? Test light ? Tester ?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232485952821

Are there lights on the dash when you turn the key on ? On the solenoid there is a small rubber cap and there is a fuse. Have you checked that as well ?

I can see by the color it looks as if there’s coolant in the oil. So now it’s on to find out where it’s coming from!

I could sit here and explain it to you but your better off going to you tube and seeing how it’s done. It’s not hard at all and you won’t damage the valves. Just make sure that you pot the valve back in the same hole it came from. I mentioned in my earlier posts about getting a tool that helps you compress the valve. You can buy one for about $15 on amazon or go to your local auto store and rent one etc. Clean the valve good before you put it back in.

Was the impeller spinning or just the shaft? I’ve seen the same thing and when the bike was being cranked the owner was able to hold the impeller and the shaft spun not the impeller so make sure that the shaft and impeller are not slipping That back end of that shaft looks chewed up. What goong on in there ? Heve yiu checked the oil ? Any coolant in there ? That seal on the back of that impeller looks shot and could be leaking fluid into the crank case.

I’m not sure about the build up holding the valves open. I don’t think that would be the case. You can check the clearance but you won’t be able to check the valve seals visually so I would think having the head off would be the most ideal time to change the seals. It would really suck to find out your seals are bad after all this work. So I would change them. But that’s up to you.

Yea brother I think it’s a pump issue. Never know but that’s where my guess is. The good thing about these problems are the limited things it can be when it comes to a water cooled system so get after it and narrow it down so we can get this figured out and get back to riding!!! Let us know how you make out.

It’s not supposed to really go over 160 I would think on a good day. Have you checked the oil for color ? And also is there a leak you are not seeing ? And the water pump... you should see that coolant flowing with the cap off the radiator after it’s good and hot. If not I’m thinking the water pump. And the seal on the water pump as well and that’s why your loosing coolant.

Ok great. What about the water pump it could be possible that there is no circulation? You can buy an infrared thermometer and shoot the head to see temperature under the same circumstances. There can only be a few things going on here 1. Thermostat 2. Water pump 3. Cooling fan/temperature sensor that brings fan on. If you have a bad head gasket the oil will be discolored (greyish) in the crank case and a lot of white smoke.

Have you checked to see that the cooling fan is coming on ? And if so is the radiator clean ? Also look up and see if the engine shuts down on the hot side. When it’s at that point is it killing he engine. And btw dam that’s fast ! Slow down a bit brother!

As far as the nasty build up goes I like to use carb cleaner or starting fluid. Put it in a rubber bin or bucket and spray the sh** out of it. The gunk falls right off, I use a small brush as well. Wipe It down good with wd-40 when you are done.

Ok I would reset the tab in the area it was originally and go with my method of the float settings. I looked at where my screw is on the bike and 1-3/4 is where I have mine set but all bikes are different but you are 100% in the right range for that bike. When that float goes at about 95% to the top the pin closes. Blow into it to verify that its properly closing just to be safe anyway. You have to realize that the bike has to be adjusted as if it were rideable and completely put back together for instance you would not ride the bike without the air box so it has to be in place when making adjustments. Your doing great. Taking a minute and stepping away really helps out. As it can get frustrating. Once you get it figured out and dialed in it’s going to run like a champ!

Nice work on the bike! So the air box should be on the bike when making the adjustment to the air fuel mixture screw. Did you turn the screw all the way in until snug and then 2-1/4 turns out ? I had the same issue in my 220 last week and finally got it dialed in. It took me about a half hour to get it perfect. But the air box has to be installed and the lid on the air box. The float on the bowl, What do you mean you adjusted to spec? That tab on that float that sends the needle up to close fuel off to the carb may be adjusted to far up. The carb will be starved for gas so make sure you didn’t do that. I always take the carb out attach a clean hose on the fuel line and hold the carb up with out the bowl on it. I blow into it and lift the bowl with my finger and when it gets just about all the way up it shuts and I can’t blow through the hose any longer. That’s something I’ve learned over time as to finding a sweet spot and to not overflow. I know they say there’s a spec on where it should be but sometime you have to have a feel for this sort of thing. New spark plug ? Have you checked the rubber boot that the carburetor attaches to for any cracks that might be sucking air in? And check your spark quality while you have the plug out. Let me know how you make out please.

Lol well let’s hope that’s your biggest mistake ! Take some pics of possible. Whats yiur plan with the valve seals ?