Frank Angerano

Ok thanks anyway.

Any chance of locating the service manual for this Polaris 200 Phoenix? 2005. Having some wiring details to iron out etc.

Hey QC members while making my rounds today looking for some parts I came across a guy who owns an motorcycle/car junk yard which had some very good atv tires I needed. In the midst of looking around I seen a Polaris scrambler 400 sitting on the ground. No wheels!! I asked him what's the deal with that and he tells me some old man brought it in months ago said it was not working motor quit or whatever and wanted it out of his yard. Anyway this bike looked completely in tact. Plastics lights engine etc. I almost grabbed the dam thing and put it in my truck. Anyway it's just sitting there. Black and yellow. Anyone on this forum located in NY that may be looking for parts for a scrambler 400 please let me know and I would be more then happy to send over his info. The bike is not stolen it's been sitting for a long time before he received it but hate to see it just sitting there going to waste! The place has it just sitting there and is asking very little for the bike. Thought I would put it out there. I should have snapped a pic sorry

Has to be there look on the frame on the front end and on the swing arm also. It is most likely on upper left frame under the fender. Take a piece of sandpaper if you have to but it's there.

Wasting your time with a thread inset and also super important is make sure before welding anything that you disconnect all wires from the battery, engine plugs, stator coil etc. Yoou will do damage to the electrical components on the bike!!!!

Best way to figure out is the vin# usulaly the tenth digit there is a number or letter. That can be cross referenced. Try and post a pic for starters.

That's a tough question. This type of thing no matter what you do will ultimately fail after a while. Some people do crazy things hoping that it will hold even WELD IT ON! Don't do that! This output shaft is built and designed for lots of pressure and torque it's a case hardened steel. If the bike is worth it then I strongly suggest changing that output shaft. If you can't or don't think it's worth changing the shaft then I would say that you can try and re thread that shaft carefully, there is a die that's designed for retapping hardened steel. Lots of oil and take your time. However keep in mind that the shaft size diameter changes now! I would get a few different size washers, nuts and find a metric type nut and metric tap set. The more threads the better, use thread lock when installing the new nut if successful. Make sure the seal on the shaft is good before you put the new nut on if you get this done and maybe a new sprocket as well so you are not taking it apart again later due to a failed seal or beat up sprocket. Again I don't think that whatever you do will fix this for a long period of time but I feel your pain about opening up that engine. That shaft change may not also be as bad as you think, do some research and see what's involved first. Should you have no choice doing shaft swap then keep in mind you might as well change as much as you can on that puppy while it's out opened up etc! Good luck.

I think you are spot on with that make and model. I attached a few pics one is the opposite side of the bike maybe to compare but I think you have it figured out.

Agreed. Quick question what made you check compression ?

Well let's start with any gasket leaks first. I.e. Head gasket, base head gasket etc. Maybe a valve issue not likely but have to look. If all checks out well then a new piston and rings are in order. At this point I'm sure you are capable of changing them and with the support of this site it will work out. Even if the cylinder is not in the best shape a piston/rings will last a long time. But befor you order any new parts it's important to see what that cylinder head looks like.

This usually happens when the float in the carb is stuck in the down position. It's meant to not flood the engine so it comes out of the overflow tube. You can try to tap the side of the bottom portion of the carb and it should pop the fioat back to its normal position. This however should be looked at. Take the carb apart and adjust the float it's a little technical with regard to how the adjustment is done but can be walked through. Also the float can have a puncture and is sunk in the bowl thus allowing fuel to flood the bowl. Or something holding the float pin open.

Most likely it's due for a change based on the year and what sounds like is happening. I changed mine because I felt the same type of thing. A little bit of slipping that I had as well. Plus it's a 2000 figured it can't hurt. I was very happy afterward. The bike grabbed much better and up/down hill were 100% better. As far as what to change I only changed plates and springs.

Great job. Bike looks crazy! Hopefully it's all fixed up and no more clutch dumping !!!!!!!!

I feel your pain $500 is a lot for a carb. $29.00 you get a complete rebuild kit comes with the set screws, seals, jets etc. just saying but I'm a little Leary of the aftermarket carbs.

Wow well it's narrowed down to the carb and intake. Having spark is a huge battle relief. Try the spray if it fires then clearly a fuel delivery issue. Quick question new carb oem or aftermarket ? Does it have a brand name? Sometimes the aftermarket ones are garbage. If the carb turns out to be ok then maybe look at the manifold that the carb is mounted to. Maybe a blockage ?

How did you check it? Has to be ohms test not voltage. If you go back and look at some of my old posts I asked the same questions about the stator testing. If someone jumped started that bike or welded on the bike as I learned here on the forum can damage the stator. It will still make voltage! Don't be fooled. But simplify this entire spark issue by checking for spark. Pull the plug put it on the ignition wire and test for spark while cranking the engine. If spark is there that's a huge relief!

Ok so the rev limiter/etc is on this bike. Took it apart to have a look and mechanically it all seems to work. I jumped the wires and it does its job. So before I went any further I went back to the throttle valve and re adjusted the needle, setting the clip lower to one click before the bottom. This seemed to clear up a lot of the backfiring issues and the bike is def running cleaner. Plug is better in color but not perfect. My only and last concern is the air mixture screw on the carb. It does not seem to do much when I make any adjustment to it as the engine is running. I've worked on hundreds of carbs and always got a change in the motor as I adjusted. The adjustment screw looks a little blunt at the tip. Wondering if it's either the wrong screw that was put back in? Maybe it's supposed to be that way? Thinking a complete rebuild kit is in order with new set screws and jets etc. I spoke to the previous owner yesterday and he said he took the carb apart not knowing what he was doing and also moved the needle on the throttle valve as well via "a friend that knows a little about carbs" lol. Fml.

Sounds like ajmboy is right on point with this. Question why did you change cdi, stator etc? No spark issue? Reason why I'm asking I went through the same problem with my electrical system "Yamaha" and replaced the same components. Thanks to the help of this forum. However after I Installed the new stator the bike started right up but seemed to run really weird, starting not starting etc so I put the old cdi back in and the bike fired and ran perfectly. Turns out the new cdi did not work correctly with that bike even though it was for that bike but not an oem part. And did you change the coil going to the plug? Shot in the dark but I found mine cracked. Just a few points to check out. Having said all of that I'm going to agree on the carberator problem. I recently took mine apart twice and found the first time I missed a few spots while cleaning. Def take that float needle out and clean it good and a trick I use is taking an old bicycle brake cable and separating the strands cutting one strand off about 6 inches long and use that to get inside the small orafaces of the carb and use the small cans of compressed air that you buy at any local stationary store to blow out he small ports it comes with the small tube to attach to the nozzle. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Awesome reply. It's a 2005 and I am not sure if it has that ETC. I will look when I get back to the bike great info on that. Now onto the crank case vent system. Air box had oil residue inside. Oil level was to high. Drained down to proper level and also found a few broken spots on the tubing. Made all repairs and i feel like it helped out with the bike settling down a bit. Can't wait to check that throttle control. Now having said all of that I went through the carb twice yesterday blew it out and and sent a small wire through the jets and ports. Also Moved the clip on the needle in the throttle valve but not sure about the factory location of the needle setting. Put in a new throttle cable in as well. I ran the bike for about a half hour and so far the backfiring had stopped not sure if it's because of the throttle work I did and that is because the ETC is satisfied? I ran out of time and did not have a chance to check pug color hoping it's that nice toasty color we all love to see! I will get back to you on the throttle control/revlimiter! Thanks a million great info!

I did some research and four out that this bike/engine has an "oil separator". Has anyone heard of this? It's part number 23 on the attached diagram. It has three connecting tubes from the bottom of the engine then to the top and then to the air filter box. What's the purpose?

Ok sooooo spark check all good. Great device btw. The carberator had some serious issues. I rebuilt it again today. The air mixture screw seems weird. Almost like it's the wrong one. Anyway definitely improved. Now. I think I found what I believe is a PCV system on this bike ? It runs from the crank case up to the head and to the air filter via a three way box. Found a major break in the hose on that as well (fixed it ) and it calmed down a lot. Plug still looks a little black. I think a new carb is in order. Anyone know about that PCV system ?

So I'm pitch black and backfire every few seconds after it warms up. Going to check the spark after it warms up. Get back to you shortly

If the plug is completely blackened it's obviously not a fuel delivery issue correct ? Too rich yes but def not starving yes? Maybe over delivery ?

Great. Just picked it up. Going to see if the spark has any loss. Thanks. Keep you posted.

Is there a device that can monitor the spark while the bike is running to see if my spark is dropping out? Also when an engine runs out of fuel I've never heard backfiring like that. Normally the engine starves runs rough and eventually shuts down. I checked the carb and rebuilt it fuel is getting where it needs to be. And lastly I'm thinking that the ignition system is breaking down after the bike heats up. The ignition spark is being lowered at the plug and a fuel build up in the cylinder head eventually fires and I get the backfire ? Maybe a stator problem? Ignition coil?