Frank Angerano

Has it been sitting ? And is there a rev limiter ? Sounds like a lot of fuel going into the cylinder and not enough air. I would start at the mixture screws on the carb and go from there. Double check that they have not been turned or re adjusted. If not then possibly a blockage within the carb and a good cleaning will need to be done. Also keep in mind that a weak spark can cause this also so should that carb be ok maybe take a quick look at the ignition system maybe a weak coil etc. good luck

I’ve had this problem. Lots of penetration oil spray on over a period of a day or so. Then warm the engine and crank away. They should come out.

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Float may be stuck or the needle inside the bowl is not free slowing the fuel into the engine.I would take the carb apart give it a good cleaning and make sure all the orafaces are clear as well as check fuel flow from the valve on the gas tank. Sometimes this valve can have an obstruction inside slowing fuel delivery. Good luck.

Crazy set up. I like it!

When the choke is up it's on. It has a halfway click also. But up on down off. If the engine is only running when you choke it then bike it's starving for fuel. Maybe a carb issue.

Tha was great ride. Awesome mud clips. Keep em coming!

So up and running. Fresh fluids, new stator and one freshly oven baked cdi! Anyone have any good info on replcement or used plastics? IMG_3926.MOV IMG_3928.MOV

Yea i agree. New one going in as soon as I get it. However this oven thing def worked. If your at a loss and not sure about the cdi bc we all know there is no way to really test it I recommend trying this out first.

So quick question. Has anyone tried the cdi box in the oven trick? I have posted a topic last week on my 1990 Honda fourtrax. Picked the bike up cheap. Bike had no spark so I went right to the obvious suspects. Cdi, stator, coil etc. Stator coil was coming back with good readings but still had my doubts and also wanted to change it for the learning factor. Anyway no good. No spark and the new cdi is two weeks away. So I remember watching a video on YouTube about putting the cdi on the oven on 250 degrees for ten min! Somehow draws the moisture out if any! I tried this today and to my surprise the darn thing came right back to life. So anyway just curious on the input on this. Would you change the box ? I resealed it with silicone? It's still working great and the bike is performing very well. Just curious on everyone's input. Thanks.

I think the oem carb should go back in. After a good cleaning and rebuild. I'm wondered if you have a week spark that's not allowing full combustion at the cylinder head. Maybe take a look there. It seems like you've gone through it all and sounds good. But look elsewhere. Could be a weak spark. Coil could be on the way out.

So here it is the $125 dollar fourtrax 300! I'm pretty deep in with the engine so far. No spark, looks like a bad stator based on the numbers I was getting back on the tester. I ordered a new stator, ignition coil and the cdi. Might as well go all in 😳. The service manual is a huge help. The shaft that drives the front and rear wheels is located right in front of the stator coil engine cover, although tricky but super easy once you figure out how it comes off as shown in the manual. Hopefully a week from now she will be fired up! Keep you posted on the rehab. Thaks for the input and manual. As always greatly appreciated. Quadcrazy is an understatement at this point #bike#7

Thank you. Yes it was a steal. I found it online it was posted for about theee hours before I noticed it. Called and he said make an offer. Two hours later it was in my truck. Compression is great and motor turns good. Just need to find out what's wrong with the ignition system but that's manageable. The bike was not beat up so I'm hoping drive shaft and drive train etc are in good working order. The person who owned it is now elderly and does not hunt any longer. Right place right time I guess. Thanks for the info keep you guys posted with pics and updates Here we go again ! Where did you say I can find the service manual on the forum ?

Hey guys/girls. Back with a new topic and looking for some help. Vin# 478TE1502LA211561 I believe it's a Honda fourtrax 1990? Picked up the bike last night from an old timer. Has no spark and it's been sitting. Going to make this one a new project bike. Needs a little work but paid less then $200 for it. Can't wait to start this thing. Any input on the vin would help. Thanks.

I would definitely try a new pedal first. Brand new pedal. You may stand a chance. Also clean the shaft really well with a wire brush to get any rust or dirt out of the grooves and tighten the new pedal bolt down good but dont snap the bolt.

Wow a lot of carb/reving issues might as well put my two cents in! I have had a few bikes do this. And to all the "carb specilist" as I feel I am lol to my surprise I have found that even though we clean, rejet, rebuild!!! There is or may be a blockage that still exists within an area you cannnot access! I've been through this over and over and when I finally tried a new carb bang the bike fired right up and worked beautyful go figure. I have cut one carberator open just to see and found that these things have a lot more going on inside then we may think. Fuel peckocks and filters are also a major factor in this type of situation and are a major contributor to some of these fuel delivery problems but most likely time for a new carb. Yes it sucks but most likely will clear up a lot of issues by replacing the carb. Also I recommend monitoring the spark. I was pointed in the direction thanks to this site of a device that you can put in between the spark plug and coil wire to monitor you spark intensity and to see if any changes happen after the bike heats up. This will save you a lot of time in diagnosing weather its electrical or a fuel delivery issue. And it's a cheap tool to buy. Lastly, take a look at all rev limiters these things suck! Over design and complicate things with the thought of safety (a good thing) but also are the culprit of a lot of backfiring and sputtering problems. Good luck.

Quick question did you happpen to check the kill switch control on the inside ? I had a similar problem and took the controller apart only to find rust and broken parts due to water that somehow got inside and would short out. I would follow that and any safeties that are in place like brake locks that need to be in place prior to starting. These are common problems that intermittently knock the spark out. Lastly it could be a wire that's lost its outer insulation and copper is rubbing against the frame at some point in the harness where any twisting of the harness happens like aroujd the front end where the neck of the frame is. Take a deep breath and step back for a second. You will figure this out. It's just a process of elimination. As far as changing all four components together well I think that's nonsense. I changed my stator and cdi. No spark. Re installed the old cdi with the new stator and she fired right up. Good luck.

That's terrible sorry to hear that. Hopefully they are recovered.

So here is a little update on the Polaris 200 Phoenix. Running good and ready for the country! And yes we love camo! Big shout out for the mechanical help! take a look!

So maybe someone left a few parts off? Do you see any shifting levers or missing parts in that area or mounting holes where something has been taken off ?

Take a look at this maybe some help It's possible that there is some missing parts.

There should be a high and low setting that will greatly change the speed of the bike. That bike made a lot of changes between the 97 and 99 years putting your bike right in between the changes. Check this link out. https://itstillruns.com/yamaha-350-big-bear-specifications-7567083.html

It's usually the tenth digit in the vin. Take a look at the link. I also notice that the manual shows 2x4 on the cover sheet but after looking at the manual I do not see a 2x4 selector. http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/10thdigitvin.php

That bike should be a 98 not an 89 based on the vin. That bike I believe is a full time 4x4. I sent a link that will take you to the user manual check pages 6-4 for shift select/operation. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/1998/LIT-11626-10-87_273.pdf

Either the battery terminals are dirty (take the wires off and clean) and it should be good. Or the battery has a dead cell and will only show enough voltage to show a meter but not enough amprage to crank. Lastly is the relay that's in between the starter and battery.