Frank Angerano

It’s not really necessary to use the gasket adhesive. And I was going to remind you to NOT forget the gasket! Sorry.

How’s it going ?

You should not need it. Just line the rings up and squeeze them as you slide the cylinder head down into the sleeve.

Take pics for reference, label things, fresh razor blades and stay calm !!

Oil the sh** out of the piston and rings. Unless you just want to change it bc it’s torn down already. Buy a honer from the auto parts store and pop it in the drill and go to town on the cylinder. New gaskets, slap it back together with a fresh plug and fire it up! Change the oil as well. i just ordered a complete gasket set for that same bike $38 on amazon. the only thing I would recommend is to change the valve seals since it’s all apart and they come with the gaskets anyway. great pics

It’s always a risk when buying from another person. I always bring a few tools along to open up a few things on the bikes I buy if they allow it and why shouldn’t they if there’s nothing to hide? A wire brush to clean a vin# so you can do a quick run on it to verify year model etc. But karma is a bi***! What goes around comes around! Better off anyway bc if he can’t jet a carb then you sure as sh** don’t want him banging out cams!!!!

Your topics will probably be merged but should that head not be freed up as per my last post then spray the exhaust bolts now with penetrating oil in hopes that they will come off when you have to pull them off for the head removal.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. I would pull the plug @viper0906 and spray some wd-40 or some penetration oil inside the cylinder head and let it sit for a day or so then warm the head up with a heat gun and try to spin the engine with the plug out. Hopefully the head frees up and it’s not seized. Also @Squirrel keep in mind that the cylinder head on the top right side has a compression relief lever that should be used when pull starting. Press the lever down and it should stay until you pull the engine cord. It will automatically reset it self so be sure to push it again before pulling the cord or your shoulder will be sorry!

Welcome to Quadcrazy! So that fan should only come on when the engine gets hot enough. It not supposed to run all the time. 1. Have you ran it long enough to see if that’s the case ? 2. It’s meant to turn on by a heat sending sensor that should be screwed into the head someplace. Should have a single wire connected to it. When the fluid in the head gets hot enough that sensor kicks in and brings the fan on and will stay on even after you turn the bike off until it’s cool. That could be bad. If your not sure take some pics and post them and we will point it out for you. You can take it out and clean the sending unit also making sure the head is not clogged up with sh** by the sensor. 3. Is there a light for the engine being to hot on the dash anywhere? A high temp light? 4. lastly have you checked all the fuses and connections for corrosion/dirt and unplugged sprayed contact cleaner and reconnected?

One other thing I didn’t address was the screw at the bottom of the carburetor. That screw should remain tight. It’s meant to drain the bowl. There is a black hose attached to the bottom of the carb that is an over flow. That would allow fuel to flow out of that hose if the float fails and keeps filling the bowl up it would drain there instead of filling the engine with gas. There should be a hose connected to the upper side of the carb as well. That’s a vent line. Make sure that hose is clear. Pull it off the carb and send a little air through it.

Other then the additional pain when you smash your knuckles with wrenches 🤬I would say no! Maybe when it comes to any silicones or gasket adhesives.... they recommend temps above 50 deg to use but I would think you are good to go! Maybe a small heater, they have plug in type and the small desiel salamander type. Sh** maybe a small pellet stove would be cool !

Welcome to Quadcrazy Austin. The new carb that you purchased was it an oem carb or aftermarket? There should be no reason to have to replace a carburetor unless it’s cracked, stripped screw holes , or damaged beyond repair. But most of the time its prob just in need of a good rebuild kit including the jets. The aftermarket carbs are not really so good unless it’s a really good production aftermarket company that specializes in carburetors and that would cost you just as much as an oem carb. Especially since it was just a bad gas issue. There are multiple tiny ports/holes in the carb AND the jets that need to be unscrewed and cleaned as well. There are small holes in the jets, on the sides, down the middle etc. As far as the air/fuel screw I would turn it all the way In until snug, not super tight and then come back out two and a half turns out. Once the bike is running you can adjust in or out a bit on the screw to dial it in. I would also change the spark plug. It could be fouled up as well.

A few ppl posted compression test videos on YouTube saying to open the throttle. It should make no difference. Ok brother when you are ready to tear into that thing we are here!

I’ve tested both ways and got the same readings. Not sure why it’s said that it makes a difference. But I’ve done it all my life with the throttle open or closed. No difference in the reading.

You should be impressed. Quadcrazy is the real deal when it comes to atv forums. The problem solving, general talk and the manuals that are here thanks to the members and Quadcrazy make this site the place to be when it comes to ATV’s. 👍 You get out of Quadcrazy what you put into Quadcrazy. Just here for the manuals does not work here ! 😂

Sorry for the brief post I was at work. The needle is located in the slide. Pull the small V shaped clip that holds the needle inside the rubber/plastic slide The needle will come out when you turn it upside down. That needle should have a round e clip and small grooves as well. It’s self explanatory at that point. Just need to figure out where to set it and remember where it was before you pull the clip off. Let me know if you see that. As for the top end the symptoms you are having what sounds like the typical dead top end problems. This is caused by either beating the sh** out of the bike by over reving or pushing the bike to hard in the wrong gear. For instance going up a hill in a higher gearing. Over time these things will hurt the engine. That’s my guess as to what’s going on. Have you ordered the parts ?

So yes I would proceed with the top end work. There is def something going on as well as low compression. As for the needle in the carb. The blown up detail may not show the clip adjustment. Pull the vacuum slide out and the needle. There should be an “E” clip and a few grooves.

Are you able to clean that number up and verify that it’s correct ? It’s not coming back with anything. Other then the year.

Can you post a pic of the vin#

The only thing that would be left is the pump. It may look ok but prob the culprit. Have you checked the pump drive to the pump. There is a shaft that drives that pump. You need to pull the pump and crank the engine to make sure the shaft is turning.

I would get a rear storage bag and load it up! I would equip the bike with a 12v accessory plug for a cigarette lighter type plug for a tire compressor and a USB port to charge the phone, a tire plug kit, and a jumper pack, spark plugs and a small socket set. Electrical tester and flashlight, small shovel. Tow straps and a good rope. Always good to keep a snatch block as well and a few bottles of water.

Good idea on a second cleaning of the carb. Fuel in the bowl of the carb does not alwsys mean the fuel is getting where it needs to go. There is a main jet that allows fuel to get into the carb from the bowl. This jet is most likely blocked. Have you sprayed starting fluid into the air Intake to see if the bike fires up ??? Also have you checked that the fuel has not gotten water in it ?

Has the bike been sitting ? Have you checked fuel is getting into the engine. Get some starting fluid and spray it in the air intake and crank. If the bike starts then it’s. A fuel problem. Couod be bad gas, dirty carburetor etc

Good. That’s the first thing I do is wash the filth off! I always pull the plastics as well. With regard to wiring any help you may need let me know. I just spent the last few days absorbing the wiring manual for that bike. Should be a good machine when you get it all back together!

Nice job on the history of the bike. The original carb is the best bet to get back to. You can buy the rebuild kit with the jets for that year included with the kit What modifications were done to the throttle cable ? Maybe a new one is in order if your going back to the original carb. Good luck and any questions you have surely can be answered here! Be sure to post some pics. 👍