Frank Angerano

I think the oem carb should go back in. After a good cleaning and rebuild. I'm wondered if you have a week spark that's not allowing full combustion at the cylinder head.  Maybe take a look there. It seems like you've gone through it all and sounds good. But look elsewhere. Could be a weak spark.  Coil could be on the way out. 

So here it is the $125 dollar fourtrax 300! I'm pretty deep in with the engine so far. No spark, looks like a bad stator based on the numbers I was getting back on the tester. 

I ordered a new stator, ignition coil and the cdi.  Might as well go all in 😳. The service manual is a huge help. The shaft that drives the front and rear wheels is located right in front of the stator coil engine cover, although tricky but super easy once you figure out how it comes off as shown in the manual.

Hopefully a week from now she will be fired up!

Keep you posted on the rehab. 

Thaks for the input and manual. As always greatly appreciated. 

Quadcrazy is an understatement at this point 

#bike#7 

Thank you.  Yes it was a steal. I found it online it was posted for about theee hours before I noticed it. Called and he said make an offer. Two hours later it was in my truck. Compression is great and motor turns good.  Just need to find out what's wrong with the ignition system but that's manageable. The bike was not beat up so I'm hoping drive shaft and drive train etc are in good working order. The person who owned it is now elderly and does not hunt any longer. Right place right time I guess. Thanks for the info  keep you guys posted with pics and updates  

Here we go again ! 

Where did you say I can find the service manual on the forum ?

Hey guys/girls. Back with a new topic and looking for some help. 

Vin# 478TE1502LA211561

I believe it's a Honda fourtrax 1990? 

Picked up the bike last night from an old timer. Has no spark and it's been sitting. Going to make this one a new project bike.  Needs a little work but paid less then $200 for it.

Can't wait to start this thing.

Any input on the vin would help.  

Thanks. 

I would definitely try a new pedal first.  Brand new pedal. You may stand a chance.  Also clean the shaft really well with a wire brush to get any rust or dirt out of the grooves and tighten the new pedal bolt down good but dont snap the bolt.  

Wow a lot of carb/reving issues might as well put my two cents in!  I have had a few bikes do this. And to all the "carb specilist" as I feel I am lol to my surprise I have found that even though we clean, rejet, rebuild!!! There is or may be a blockage that still exists within an area you cannnot access!  I've been through this over and over and when I finally tried a new carb bang the bike fired right up and worked beautyful go figure. I have cut one carberator open just to see and found that these things have a lot more going on inside then we may think. 

Fuel peckocks and filters are also a major factor in this type of situation and are a major contributor to some of these fuel delivery problems but most likely time for a new carb. Yes it sucks but most likely will clear up a lot of issues by replacing the carb. 

Also I recommend monitoring the spark. I was pointed in the direction thanks to this site of a device that you can put in between the spark plug and coil wire to monitor you spark intensity and to see if any changes happen after the bike heats up. This will save you a lot of time in diagnosing weather its electrical or a fuel delivery issue.  And it's a cheap tool to buy. 

Lastly, take a look at all rev limiters these things suck! Over design and complicate things with the thought of safety (a good thing) but also are the culprit of a lot of backfiring and sputtering problems. 

Good luck.  

Quick question did you happpen to check the kill switch control on the inside ? I had a similar problem and took the controller apart only to find rust and broken parts due to water that somehow got inside and would short out. I would follow that and any safeties that are in place like brake locks that need to be in place prior to starting. These are common problems that intermittently knock the spark out.  Lastly it could be a wire that's lost its outer insulation and  copper is rubbing against the frame at some point in the harness where any twisting of the harness happens like aroujd the front end where the neck of the frame is. Take a deep breath and step back for a second. You will figure this out. It's just a process of elimination. 

As far as changing all four components together well I think that's nonsense. I changed my stator and cdi. No spark. Re installed the old cdi with the new stator and she fired right up.  

Good luck. 

That's terrible sorry to hear that.  Hopefully they are recovered. 

So here is a little update on the Polaris 200 Phoenix. Running good and ready for the country! And yes we love camo! 

Big shout out for the mechanical help!

take a look! 

So maybe someone left a few parts off? Do you see any shifting levers or missing parts in that area or mounting holes where something has been taken off ?

Take a look at this maybe some help

It's possible that there is some missing parts. 

There should be a high and low setting that will greatly change the speed of the bike. 

That bike made a lot of changes between the 97 and 99 years putting your bike right in between the changes. Check this link out. 

https://itstillruns.com/yamaha-350-big-bear-specifications-7567083.html

It's usually the tenth digit in the vin. 

Take a look at the link.

I also notice that the manual shows 2x4 on the cover sheet but after looking at the manual I do not see a 2x4 selector.  

http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/10thdigitvin.php

That bike should be a 98 not an 89 based on the vin.  That bike I believe is a full time 4x4. 

I sent a link that will take you to the user manual check pages 6-4 for shift select/operation.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/1998/LIT-11626-10-87_273.pdf

Either the battery terminals are dirty (take the wires off and clean) and it should be good. Or the battery has a dead cell and will only show enough voltage to show a meter but not enough amprage to crank. Lastly is the relay that's in between the starter and battery. 

Ok thanks anyway. 

Any chance of locating the service manual for this Polaris 200 Phoenix? 2005. 

Having some wiring details to iron out etc. 

Hey QC members while making my rounds today looking for some parts I came across a guy who owns an motorcycle/car junk yard which had some very good atv tires I needed. In the midst of looking around I seen a Polaris scrambler 400 sitting on the ground. No wheels!! I asked him what's the deal with that and he tells me some old man brought it in months ago said it was not working motor quit or whatever and wanted it out of his yard.  Anyway this bike looked completely in tact. Plastics lights engine etc. I almost grabbed the dam thing and put it in my truck. Anyway it's just sitting there. Black and yellow. Anyone on this forum located in NY that may be looking for parts for a scrambler 400 please let me know and I would be more then happy to send over his info. The bike is not stolen it's been sitting for a long time before he received it but hate to see it just sitting there going to waste! The place has it just sitting there and is asking very little for the bike. Thought I would put it out there.  I should have snapped a pic sorry  

Has to be there look on the frame on the front end and on the swing arm also.  It is most likely on upper left frame under the fender.  Take a piece of sandpaper if you have to but it's there. 

Wasting your time with a thread inset and also super important is make sure  before welding anything that you disconnect all wires from the battery, engine plugs, stator coil etc. Yoou will do damage to the electrical components on the bike!!!! 

Best way to figure out is the vin# usulaly the tenth digit there is a number or letter.  That can be cross referenced. Try and post a pic for starters.  

That's a tough question. This type of thing no matter what you do will ultimately fail after a while. Some people do crazy things hoping that it will hold even WELD IT ON! Don't do that! This output shaft is built and designed for lots of pressure and torque it's a case hardened steel.  If the bike is worth it then I strongly suggest changing that output shaft.

If you can't or don't think it's worth changing the shaft then I would say that you can try and re thread that shaft carefully, there is a die that's designed for retapping hardened steel.  Lots of oil and take your time. 

However keep in mind that the shaft size diameter changes now!  I would get a few different size washers, nuts and find a metric type nut and metric tap set. The more threads the better, use thread lock when installing the new nut if successful. 

Make sure the seal on the shaft is good before you put the new nut on if you get this done and maybe a new sprocket as well so you are not taking it apart again later due to a failed seal or beat up sprocket. 

Again I don't think that whatever you do will fix this for a long period of time but I feel your pain about opening up that engine. That shaft change may not also be as bad as you think, do some research and see what's involved first. Should you have no choice doing shaft swap then keep in mind you might as well change as much as you can on that puppy while it's out opened up etc! Good luck. 

I think you are spot on with that make and model. I attached a few pics one is the opposite side of the bike maybe to compare but I think you have it figured out. 

Agreed.  Quick question what made you check compression ?