Cj Winds

I have had similar problems on a couple of machines, one solution was replacing a faulty aftermarket cdi box, another problem for a different machine was a vacuum leak at boot between carb and cylinder head

Fluid from the exhaust could be gasoline, did you replace any parts in the carb? If not, buy a rebuild kit, they can be found on ebay for under $30. The float on the carb is probably leaking and flooding the engine. Check the engine oil too see if it is too full, if its too full it might have gas in it. You will need to replace the engine oil and filter if the oil is mixed with gas.

The front final drive could last for several more years, most of them when new had a good deal of play

The gap is important but usually its not adjustable on the type of atv you have. You can measure the resistance of the coil, if its infinite resistance then the coil is bad

First check the wiring for breaks in the wiring from the stator to the main wiring harness. Next use a multimeter to chech the resistance between the yellow wires coming from the stator. From one wire to the next it should have less than 2 ohms. A high or infinite resistance between two of the wires indicates an open in the stator wiring which is fixed by replacing the stator.

Does the engine die when you put it in forward gear?

Do you have a multimeter? measure resistance on main switch, black to black/red, and red to brown. Both should have continuity when switch is on and no continuity when switch is off

What year is your machine?

Cant test CDI, need to test everything else before you can suspect CDI, you can replace CDI with known good one. CDI is under the front body plastics, inbetween and above front tires...I think

Do these help 1990-1997 TRX200.pdf 1992 TRX200 TRX200SX.pdf

I have several Suzuki 250 and 300 from the late 80's and 90's called quadrunner or kingquad. They are semi auto, you can find them in 2x4 or 4x4. You also can find them on craigslist usually under $1000 needing work. They are small and slow but are a workhorse, the main tranny has 5 gears and reverse and then there is a 3 speed sub tranny. They will tow alot as long as you have traction, I use them to tow 3000# boats around my yard. They also have independent rear suspension and are shaft drive. The honda 300's are good and simple too.

My 5 year old is riding a 90cc arctic cat 2002 2 stroke, you can dial them down and make them go slow The main differences with the 50 and 90cc engines are the piston and cylinders Most of the north american branded kids ATV's are made in Taiwan and many different makes and models are made by the same company and are all very similar. Not sure if this is still true for the new ones.

Engine oil: 0W-40 Mobil 1 full syn engine oil Transmission: 5W-30 Mobil 1 full syn (you can use many different things in the tranny, its just a some gears, chains, and bearings) chaincase oil, dex 3 or 6, GL5, or engine oil Coolant: any conventional green coolant works mixed 50/50 Brakes: Dot 4 brake fluid, valvoline Rear final drive: Valvoline GL5 75W-90 syn Front final drive: if its a hillard drive (mostly 2004 and newer polaris models) then I use polaris demand drive, if it has hillards on the hubs (2004 and older polaris models) the I use GL5, some people use ATF type F or ATF dex6 but I find I do not use much of the fluid so I just buy the polaris stuff.

The only part you need is a OEM ignition switch. On mine, all I did was hack into the wiring thats part of the faulty ignition switch, I did not hack into the atv wiring harness If you are really good with switches, you can try to disassemble and clean the switch, usually its just the contacts that get corroded or dirty. My switch showed 150 ohms of resistance on the cdi side when it should be under 1 ohm Or if you want to be getto, you could use two seperate switches. Use the old switch if it still has a one good circuit and the new switch for the other circuit

The new ignition switch is wrong switch. This just happened to me. I bought the cheap $10 one on ebay or amazon. The correct switch should be normally open on both circuits where as the cheap new one I bought is normally open on one circuit and normally closed on the other (which is the way many other atv ignition switches work). One circuit is to turn positive battery power on and off, the other circuit is a ground wire for the CDI. I corrected the issue by connecting the two wires for the CDI circuit. The ignition switch is now only used to turn on and off battery power, it does not kill the engine. The only way to kill the engine now is to use the kill switch.