footbal9584

ok did you test the voltages on the connector going to the solenoid if they change then you switch is good and your solenoid is bad. If not then most likely your switch is bad or there is a break in the wiring somewhere Hey off topic but I see your in PA. Have you ever been to Wellsville, Ohio to go riding? Also you can start the atv that way, just dont leave it jumped too long while starting. 5 sec on and 15 sec off until it starts should be great. This is how I start my boys POS chinese atv.

Try jumping the wires for your starter at the starter solenoid, it should be under the seat (mine is for an LTA-400F). It will look something similar to this Use a screw driver and touch the two posts with the two large wires. If it starts then it is either a wiring, solenoid, or switch issue. If it does not start then check the voltages on the large posts one should be 12+ volts the other should be 0 volts. If both are 0 then you have an issue with the cable coming from the battery. Now while testing the one with 0 volts push the start button it should jump to 12. If it does not then continue on to my next paragraph. If it does then continue on down the wire and check the voltage at the starter motor and see if it is reading 12 volts. If it does then check the grounding for the starter make sure it is good. If it does not then there is possibly a break in that wire. You can also directly test the starter by using jumper cables put the negative on the Atv frame and the positive on the starter positive and it should turn over. If not then you most likely have a bad starter. Now if you are not getting 12 volts on the other wire or it does start when you jump the wires. Check the other set of wires going to the solenoid see if the voltages change when you push the start button. If they do then you have a bad solenoid if not then it is probably a fuse or start switch or broken wire somewhere along route from the switch to the solenoid. Let me know what you get and I will try to help you further

Ok on top of my brake issue I am also having a low voltage issue. The atv runs great it's just the lights/fan do not work and the battery does not charge. (Have to start with recoil start). I tested the wires that are coming from the stator for the charging part (3 black wires) and they all range from 1.3 volts to 1.8 volts it gets higher as the engine goes slower and the lights get brighter as you are killing the engine. Now when I idle it a little higher it stays steady at 1.18 volts. What is going on here is the stator bad or what else can I do for diagnosis. Thanks

It's an 02. I was really hoping you wouldn't say that, I just replaced a $140 caliper now this. AHHHHHHHH But anyways how can I tell if it has been worn too thin?

Ya I put it all the way in while I put the arm on and then backed it all the way out, and the shoes touch a little bit, but not enough to do anything useful. I checked out that link and every thing moves freely. So I dunno, thanks for your input though

Ok I have replaced the rear brake shoes on my Eiger and still have the same problem with them just not working. I have tried everything I have even loosened both adjustment nuts on the swing arm by the drum as far out as possible and then turned the shaft for the brakes so they would start pushed out a little and then put the swing arm on and am still having a problem with them just not working. I will tighten the adjustment bolt all the way back in after putting the swing arm on the shaft and squeezing the brake lever moves the shoes but they for some reason don't touch the drum. I bought a new set and both have the exact same amount of pad on them. So my question is is there anything I should be looking for or doing or if someone has pics they could post of their setup I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Mike

ya the front are hydraulic the rear are just cables, what do you mean by wheel cylinder? In order to remove the cover for the drum brakes I had to remove the large axel nut and the piece that goes on the axel and has the 4 bolts to connect to the tire, then I had to remove about 6 or seven small bolts to remove the drum housing. I am at school right now, but when I get home I'll post some pictures. Thanks for the help so far guys

Hey thanks for the quick reply, ya I probably did adjust them too tight, because I was simply trying to get them to work so we could ride it. And ya they are run on cables (one for hand, one for foot) that are attached to an arm that can be adjusted along this gear like thing that goes inside the drum which has the shoes and that part is sort of like circle with both sides partially cut off so when you pull the cable it turns and the shoes push out against the drum. So where would I apply the grease? would it be the same thing you would use on car brakes? And what is a good rule of thumb for adjusting the intensity of the brake levers. Thanks

Ok we have been riding today and noticed the brakes get progressively worse. I tightened up the cable and they were good for a while, but then about an hours or two later there was no rear brake again. So I took the tire and cover off and noticed about a mm of pad left on each shoe and the smell of burnt wires or something like that. I also noticed that it looked like there is supposed to be some kind of oil or something inside the drum, because there is an o-ring around the brake assembly that the drum cover goes onto, and some oil residue or something inside it. Could anyone possibly give me a walkthrough on how to properly replace the shoes and if there is any oil or something that is supposed be in there. Thanks Mike