Gwbarm

I have bought different size brass bushings from Ace Hardware, but if available, for something like that I would try to go back with OEM.

Thanks for sharing.

I usually find aftermarket racks on Amazon, they are very well made, and reasonable, haven't looked for the Polaris, but they should have them, Rocky Mountain ATV has Polaris OEM parts they may also have aftermarket to fit.

Thats great, finally got it sparking, I think your spark looks good, 😀, how's it running.

Looking forward to seeing how you come out, im working on a 2000 Big Bear 400 and mine was in a lot worse shape than yours, keep us posted on your progress.

Good that the engine is all together, the other stuff can be put back fairly easily.

It looks to be in pretty good shape, may be an easy fix, carb doesnt look bad at all.

I think I would try powering from the reverse switch, LEDs shouldn't pull much , maybe 5 watts.

Big Bear 350, that should be a fun project, depending on the state of disrepair it is in. The Big Bear was introduced in 1988 to compete with Hondas 4 Trax 4x4, it was Yamahas first 4x4 ATV, it was produced for 1988 to 1999, they were tough as nails and along with the Honda set the standards for 4x4 ATVs. Did not have a very fast top end because of the low gearing, they were made more for work and hunting and boasted pulling power of 900lbs.

Found this site seems to have Kymco parts. https://www.powersportsid.com/atv/kymco-mongoose-270-accessories-parts/

Sorry about that , those are the two that I use the most, I had trouble also finding parts fo Kymco, but thought you might find the Kawasaki one that was comparable. I will keep looking.

Its been interesting, not something I had planned on fixing, got it really cheap I needed the tires for my eiger, but after looking it over I liked it, so decided to try and revive it. Like the old saying, if you are not having fun, you are doing it wrong. I found this site shortly after and it really helps keep you motivated, a lot of good friendly people willing to help.

It may be Mech, you mean timing or weak spark, listening to it again I don't hear it at idle, but when you rev it up it sounds like an engine running with the choke on after its warmed up. What I mean is when you first start a cold engine you turn the choke on, after it warms up the engine starts popping like that until you turn off the choke then it runs normal. Maybe running with the choke half on is restricting the air flow it needs causing the popping, are you sure its the right bore carb for that bike.

This one is out of spec in the other direction it will be interesting to see what this one does.

I would just put a new battery in it first, battery can fool you ,seems to charge up and bam your down again, battery are something I don't mess around with if its 3 yrs old I would replace it. I have had them not even last a year.

You got one of the good ones, Made in Japan, that will be a nice project.

Engine apart or electronics, plastics or all of the above.

Its always a challenge putting something back together that you didn't take apart, but with the repair manual and the helpful people on this site its very doable, im doing the same with a Yamaha.

Th gasket seems to be holding for now, but I did have a small oil leak at the oil cooler connection, I knew it was a potential problem area when I installed the new filter housingI didn't replace the copper gaskets thought they would reseal and they may have if I would have had a 23mm socket to get them tight enough. Got them out, reinstalled using Honda Bond #4 on the threads, I couldn't find my Yamabond. Scrounged around and found a 23mm box end, worked perfectly. The bottom one was so close to the frame rail couldn't use much else. Should have put them on before I installed the housing , but thought I could get them tighter one it was installed. Not high tech stuff, but might help someone that has to do this.

That could have been the problem with the gasket, but it was not a material that im used to seeing a gasket made out of, it was not like gasket material, was like paper but plastic coated or something, but not rubber. In fact its exactly like the one that came off of it that green color. I was surprised it started so easily after sitting so long and stuck engine. Its certainly come a long way, the oil is starting to look milky again so their was still water in the engine that didn't come out when I drained it, I v got to add a couple of quarts run it a little and then change it again, its looking promising if it will move, hadn't tried. that yet.

Got the new gasket installed on Saturday, aftermarket didn't quite fit only missed it by 5mm, I made it work but don't feels real secure, if it leaks I will get an OEM one, hadn't got it all back together yet but I torqued the bolts and had to know, shot a couple of shots of carb cleaner in the intake, fired right up first rotation, didn't run very long but it did run. When I get everything back together with gas I can tell more about it. IMG_3629.mov

I didn't notice it I guess was looking at other stuff, good eye!

Is this the same that you found this is from Rock Mountain OEM parts.

Iv never had a problem with their tool either, not great, but they always work, I have never broken one, I never liked their Drillmaster series of drills, but they always worked, they have a new line now that seems better made, not very cheap. I do really like their jacks probably the best iv ever used. Us General, tool carts, I have also been very impressed with. I have several of their torque wrenches very good, the only problem hard to read the little numbers, I have one of the old style with the pointer that I use when I can't find my glasses.

So im assuming it also has a centrifugal advance, to compensate for timing.