Gwbarm

I generally run 10w40 but since this engine had been sitting so long and had water in it I thought I would get the thicker stuff to help get everything good and coated with heavy oil, run for a while and change later, I thought it was a good price on it 6.50 qt as cheap as super tech, bought all they had 4 quarts, went in yesterday and they had replenished the stock, and its now 9.95 qt. my mobile 1 I buy for my cars has gone up 10.00 a 5 qt jug, oil is really increasing in price, and I don't go to Walmart that much but looking around everything has substantially increased in price.

Glad the red tag was still there, this was made by Warn, 424 select, a very expensive add on accessory, hope it still works.

Thanks this is so very helpful, I can't count the number of times I am asked about new tires, this article will be a great resource.

Yes it can leak fuel out , not much because the hose it so small, just enough to be annoying.

Great article, looks like a fun event, thanks for sharing.

You should be able to find one on Ebay,or Amazon also Rocky Mountain ATV has aftermarket and OEM parts.

Most are sealer these days and no grease fittings , pump too full of grease it destroys the seals

Correct, vent/ overflow , don't like it much , if you fill the tank too full fuel will come out this hose, it just kind of hangs down by the frame. kind of annoying when trailering with a full tank

I just noticed the red tag on the side of the unit, if I can get that off maybe it will tell me something about it.

Right the axel from rear end goes in one end and axel to the front the other like it’s in between axels

Good idea! Did that work?

It is kind of a pain, but I have never removed anything, on the left side at the Botton of a plastic cover, through the wheel well is the first drain plug remove it, drain the oil, also on the left side is the oil stick and screw on filter which I like very much, get to it fine with a ratchet and filter wrench, the other drain is at the bottom , had to lay under it, never removed anything, there is an opening ,you will see 3 bolts take out the one in the center, need a long handle ratchet, let it drain and replace the plug, you are done.

If I was to guess what this does, I would say it would lock and unlock drive to the front wheels. Wonder if it has oil in there, I don't see a drain plug and im looking at the bottom of it.

You either have a stuck fuel valve not closing, or a float that has sunk, probably a piece of trash not letting your fuel valve close all the way.

You have replaced the major parts, I would check to make sure you are getting voltage where it needs to be 12 v to cdi, ground is good at cdi . Check your pick up coil resistance. Did it just quit or what happened.

Thanks for all your help, I was just looking at an owners manual for a YFM400FW and it shows a button for selecting 2w/4w. According to vin search mine is a YFM400F or YFM400FH Buckmaster. I did get out and get a photo of where the cable goes:

I did the same thing when I first started working on it trying to figure it out, because I had no 2w/4w switch, but I had this cable going to it, I think I remember finding out from a previous post that it was an aftermarket add on but I can't remember what it did , I was more concerned at that time getting it rewired and running. I remember asking the previous owner what that was he said it was the choke, I knew then he had never had it running and knew nothing about it. It is one I should have walked away from, but I really only wanted the tires, they aren't that great but they all hold air, plus its coming along nicely, iv learned a lot and am still enjoying working on it, it is so powerful very low first gear, but like wrestling a bear to turn it.

No lever, I just assumed it was an aftermarket diff lock or 4 wheel drive disengage , because Big Bear is all time 4 wheel drive, maybe the newer ones weren't.

Sorry for the double post I forgot the photo.

I have this control on my Big Bear I have not seen one before, it appears to have a cable that goes to the front differential, it doesnt appear to be factory issue, Im assuming it's either a differential lock or to disconnect four wheel drive, does anyone know what this is or how it works.

I have this control on my Big Bear I have not seen one before, it appears to have a cable that goes to the front differential. Im assuming it's either a differential lock or to disconnect four wheel drive, does anyone know what this is or how it works.

Bleeders were in good shape opened them up and nothing came out. Found this in my stash, its for a 1 inch bar not 3/4, oh well, that's what gaffers tape is for. I did hook up the line before I tried it. It pumps really well according to the puddle underneath the left caliper I first thought it was a disintegrated hose, but it appears to be at the connection to the caliper, I will dig further when I get the wheel off.

Doesn't sound like the regulator, sounds more like a relay, do you have power to the starter.

I do pretty much the same procedure except, what I do before I ever open the carb up is clean all the dirt trash and mud off of it in the parts washer, get the outside very clean , you don't want any of that getting inside your carb, or the ultrasonic cleaner, ultrasonic is generally not necessary for a carb off of a running bike, they are usually fairly clean with a stray piece of dirt blocking the jet openings, unless it sat for years before you got it. I just do it incase there is a small piece you didn't see or come loose from the carb cleaner. I used to use the electrical wire method but was always loosing my wire so I got a set of jet cleaners , a bunch different size wires all attached like feeler gauges. I got 3 cause I knew I would loose I right away, and I did. I also don't use strong chemicals in the ultrasonic cleaner, I used to use carb dip, never really liked it, it would always turn the metal a darker color. I use Simple Green or Royal Purple or something along that line, I have even used Dawn dish detergent and I think it works just as well. Mech covered the tear down really well, and everyone has their own procedure, but this is what I do.

Im still hoping you don't have too split the case, that is a pain and things don't always play well going back together, plus hose honda transmissions are pretty resilient, as Mech said find the star shaped washer which is the back side of the shift drum, turn it gently to see how solid it is, if it very solidly stuck try turning the wheels which should be jacked up off the ground, at the same time as you are trying to turn the shift drum, hopefully it will unstick itself. I think you can do it and those Hondas are really nice machines when you get everything worked out