Gwbarm

Seems strange that coil and CDI would go out at the same time, I might look for a short, that might have taken them out, as Mech suggested.

Just did a quick search there is only one for sale in my area at $3750, I would do it , but I like bringing things back. I use Rockymountain ATV along with partzilla whoever has the best price.

I run OEM also , not really that much more, plus it gives me piece of mind. Oil seems to be more specific for certain machines than it used to be.

OEM parts are so expensive its getting more difficult to keep the old ones running, except for certain things, I order mostly OEM from Rocky Mountain ATV, gaskets have been cheaper than amazon, also I had a air box cover missing it was also cheaper there than amazon or eBay. So you really have to look around and be patient.

Well it turns out that the broken bolt was in an insert into the frame. It broke loose as I was trying to get the bolt out. I tried to get a new one but yamaha doesnt even list it as a part. So I went to Ace hardware thinking they may have something to replace it, nothing metal just some plastic inserts. I ended up using a license plate mounting insert, it fit the hole perfectly. I would like to replace it with what was there, but I think this will work. Got the rear fender mounted now, and all the electronics routed to their correct place.

Thanks Mech! I have been putting Anti Seize on all the bolts as I go in with new hardware, I tried to get the hose routed as close as possible to the original , which was missing, the parts house I generally use doesnt stock the original anymore, im still looking, expensive hose 115.00, I still need to cut it off flush with the tank, but I will try running without it as you suggested. I was just trying to get the air box hooked back up before I start it, sometimes they can run too lean without air box attached.

Torx is a great idea, I would soak the bolt in some penetrating oil and maybe use a little heat, if it stripped out from the correct wrench its going to need a little help, but you never know, previous owner might have used SAE instead oof metric and it didn't fit the bolt right.

Trying to get the wiring sorted out and routed back in its right places, a little brain teasing when you didn't take it apart. Test fitted the back fenders to try to figure out which wires went through which hole Got it all wired up after repairing some of the broken wire hangers.Everything fit where it was supposed to go. Went to screw it down and found this , broken off bolt down in a hole, iv got it soaking with PB Blaster now, not sure how im going to get this one out yet, it may be difficult. So I had to take everything back apart to get to it, not to bad, I had already done the hardest part, figuring out where everything goes.

I would start by soaking with PB blaster, maybe try an SAE instead of metric also see if the larger metric might go in if its too large see if you can hammer it in that would be my first try , if it dosent work try going along the inside rim with hammer and chisel light taps at first to get a lip started and then heaver taps as needed. I just found another broken one on my project down in a hole got it soaking in PB right now going to try hammer and punch I use eaaseouts as a last resort.

That would be a good add on just in case a bull doesnt like you riding in his pasture, 1 MPH faster is too close for comfort.

Nice job, they look good.

You say it won't start , meaning no spark, or starter won't turn over with key. Is it stuck in gear , can you get it to neutral.

Sorry you are having such trouble especially since you replaced so many parts, I would check to make sure I have 12V power going to CDI I would check to make sure you have a ground at CDI. I would check the resistance of the pickup coil by unplugging the wiring harness from the stator, check resistance between G/W and R/W it should be about 530 OHMs, then check to make sure pickup coil is putting out voltage about 4.4 v AC , them make sure you have 12v going to coil and check continuity from CDI to coil, orange wire. Not positive on wire colors they could be different depending on if aftermarket parts have been installed, plus im going by memory . If you don't have a manual I will see if I can find one and take a look.

Started trying to get this Big Bear back together so I can see how it drives: Put the new carburetor on Worked out very well now instead of the throttle cable adjustment being adjusted out to the max it fits just right. Still had an air box hose missing tried to order one listed as not shipping no aftermarket available, not suprized, so I have to fabricate one It fit in the tank cutout well, just need to cut it off flush, and it just appears to be open under the seat not hooked to anything

I use Rocky Mountain ATV, and Motosports.com both have been very good. There are many out there, a lot of guys use Partzilla but I never have.

I might try 20w-50 over 10w-40, I also use Dino oil in older machines I think it has more minerals needed by older machines, just my thoughts.

These are several that fit not sure if auto zone has them but they are standard brands, Autozone-WalMart carries Fram, Oreileys has Wix, Walmart has K&N. Fram 6017A, K&N 303, Wix 51358.

I did notice a few differences between the OEM and aftermarket carbs: The throttle return spring was stronger The idle adjusting cable was larger The mixture adjusting screw was covered up with brass plug The choke plunger was made out of aluminum with an O ring and a little longer with a different shape, and stronger spring I didn't take it apart and compare the internal im sure there are more differences there. Since most aftermarkets don't have jet sizes on the jets hard to compare without a measuring tool I don't have.

Sounds like its working out good, thanks for the update. I haven't used a wheelbarrow in years although I still have one probably rusted out, I use a small trailer that I pull pull behind my atv, but a dump bed is better.

Good for you, the best thing you could do for your kids.

That will be nice when you get it done, it looks nice now. Good luck getting the frame fixed.

Yeah that sounds right , I bet the longer you run it the better it will get to a point, then you can really tell what's going on , maybe nothing, just sitting gums everything up and running brings it back, getting everything flowing like it should.

Yes you can wait on that I was just thinking if the rings were stuck that might help unstick them, but if what mech says is happening, just running for a while will help that, load is better. You just want to make sure the added oil is burned out of the cylinder, so you can see what its really doing, how long have you run it so far.

No guesses! Its the one on the left. It is kind of foolish wasting this much brain power on a carb, I should just get the cheapest one stick it on there and go, been there done that didn't go very far, after going to this much trouble I do want it right.

Is the high , low lever stuck or can you move the lever and it feels right.