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By Steven Urban
First time using this forum. Owned a Kawasaki dirt bike once, had no issues. But I picked up this 4 wheeler at an auction. They stated it ran, but only needed a battery. Well I do not believe that was all true.
Some pictures are attached. Not sure why, but the whole air filter stuff was removed. They had some small thing inserted as a make shift air filter.
I purchased a battery to try this all out. Waiting to return it and get the proper size, as it was too big for the battery box. But here is my issue I had while the battery was connected.
1 - The lights on the steering column did not come on. Not sure if they work or not.
2 - The starter solenoid seems to be bad. I have a new one on order.
3 - In the pick, there is another rusted part. Not sure what that part is or what it is used for.
4 - What is the 12v rectifier? square bodied part.
So when I hooked the battery up. Pushing the start button did nothing. Pulling the cord to try and pull start, it turned, but would never fire. I have put in a new spark plug as well, it looked worn out. With electric start, I crossed over the posts on the start solenoid, it turned over, but would never fire and start.
I have read a few other threads and it stated something about needed the neutral light on. SOmething about a kill switch.
Any help would be appreciated.
got that 220 I'm 'servicing'.......... well it turned into a guts and oil job.... I cleaned the carb and it wont idle cold, but idles too fast when warm. also misfires and burns rich cold (white smoke out of the exhaust) I'm going to order a new carb since the old one is leaking and beat up (some one was tinkering) I'm wondering about the valve clearance and timing...? Maybe a factor? What should the clearance be on the valves? How should I check the timing on this bike? (this is a mid 90s bayou 220 2x4)
Got a 04 Sportsman 500 that wasnt running- owner said it needed a stater and a new battery. It ran rough (been sitting out in the weather for a while). A friend and I started by adding a new battery and it would start barely with the choke and his hand over the air-filter. I decided to install the new battery in the holder on the side. we had it on the rack because the old on was still in the bike. I tried to be nifty by turning the battery to put the terminals in an easier spot to get to, but forgot to reverse the cables too. In a sentence, I reversed the positive and negative on the battery like a dummy. When we discovered my mistake and corrected it, we turned on the bike, but the display did not light up and the key did not turn on the starter. jumping the solenoid worked the starter, so we thought the solenoid just burned up when I reversed the pos and neg... new solenoid and no difference. what have I burned up? Also, the shifter does not seem to do anything in the trans. it slides back and forth like its stripped in the trans. any help would be appreciated!!
I think the biggest issue right now is the electrical.
I have a gentleman that asked me to service his bayou for him. I have always wondered what oil should be used in atv engines? Pros? Cons? What weight should be used in what type of weather? Is there one kind that I could bulk buy and safely used in any quad I worked on or owned? What about performance? Engine Life? This has always been a 🤔🤔🤔 area for me with quads as far as why you would use one type of oil over another....
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So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
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