Quantcast
Jump to content


300 King Quad Running Problem


Reedygillespie

Recommended Posts

Good after noon everyone, new here and really sure how to post anythang or get back to the topic I was lookn for so maybe u quad fans can help me out. I've got a 300 king quad that I really need info on. It's drivin me nuts . It starts and idles great but when I give it gas it spits and sputters. Anyone that could help me get lined out on this forum and my old quad u be a blessing .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would try turning out the pilot screw out until it clears up a bit....up to 3 turns out from a fully seated position. If you need more than that, then I would get the next bigger jet and start again from 1/2 turn out and until you get 'er dialed in. Only turn it about 1/8 turn at a time...a little at a time will do a lot

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, Reedygillespie said:

Good after noon everyone, new here and really sure how to post anythang or get back to the topic I was lookn for so maybe u quad fans can help me out. I've got a 300 king quad that I really need info on. It's drivin me nuts . It starts and idles great but when I give it gas it spits and sputters. Anyone that could help me get lined out on this forum and my old quad u be a blessing .

The problem  could be a failing spark  plug.  Fires ok  under idle but fails as soon  as a load is put on it.   If it  is in the  carb,  you could try turning  in the pilot screw to  closed , then  back it off 1 1/2  turns  ad try it .. Try  screwing the  screw in  and out  from  there as  fartknocker  suggests.

Here  is  a link to  a  service manual that will also  apply to your  quad.

https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/category/4-suzuki-atv/

Under the  browse /  download  button at the top  of the forum  are links to service manuals  and other  useful  info for members.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it starts and revs fine  for a second and then  sputters ,  it  is starving for  fuel. You  need to  service the  carb. There  is a vacuum  piston/ diaphragm   on it that  may  be  damaged or leaking. The  high  speed  jet  could be  plugged or  one of the passages . If it  sat  for  a  long time with  old fuel  in the  carb,  it  is  most likely  badly  gunked up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By hardcastle
      My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Louznmemind
      Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues...  It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle?? 
    • By Gwbarm
      I have been exploring all the options available, so many, its hard to choose. I have kind of narrowed it down to the Honda Pilot, Subaru Outback, and Kind of looking at the Outlander, although its a little small,  the new one is nice looking. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or gripes with any of these rides. I have driven Jeeps for the past 25  years and they have been great, but their price point has gotten to high. Expieriences good or bad would be helpful. Thanks!
    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...