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Yamaha Warrior clutch/carb/exhaust issues


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got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).

the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris excited on my block GIF by NETFLIX

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so I'm hoping if luck is on my side (it never is and i dont believe in it lol), basic tear-down (plastics off) and a good clean, a carb clean, freed up clutch cable, new battery, new airbox, new exhaust, (maybe) some new tires cause the old ones are worn down, and some other odds and ins and this bike will be running like a champ...  If i divide what I paid for the bunch, I think I gave around $300 for this bike.

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It’s prob a 350.   Post some pics of you can. The vin on the Yamahas like mentioned in one of our other posts is on the lower left front frame rail.  As long as the carb is in good shape then only  a rebuild kit may be  needed.  As far as the clutch cable we’ll they are cheap enough.  But you can take it off and hang it up so it’s stright and spray it with WD 40 inside and let gravity do it’s job.  

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so the engine was partially locked up so I'm pulling it to clean it and the rest of the bike and so I can get to it easier.  It turned but I could hear it grinding (I was turning it by hand) so I loaded the cylinder up with WD-40 and kept working it loose- now its turning over easily but I should prolly still pull the head and check stuff out right?  The clutch cable was not seized, but the clutch is hard to pull.  I was going to look at that while I had the engine off.  The carb looks like its in bad shape- hopefully I can get that cleaned..  It had a twist throttle on it, but also had the oem thumb throttle in the box so I put that back on.  I'm wondering what I should tackle first and If I should dig into the cylinder or see if it will run first?  Heres some picks:  Also, Worst come to worst, I could get this- just worried about putting too much into this bike and not getting much out of it.  low retail for these bikes is $700 near me.

Heres the stock throttle

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Heres the twist throttle that was on the bike

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Heres the side on the engine that I hand tunred the flywheel from.  Not sure if theres supposed to be a cover or pull cord...

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Heres the melted airbox.  new one is around $20

Picture0408191823952.jpg

my shop isnt as depressing as it looks lol

Edited by JacobSlabach
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That’s a dirt bike throttle on the atv lol get rid of it.  It’s dangerous!  The cylinder... pull it.  Never know what’s going on in there. See if it’s even worth putting money into it.  Worst case you part it out if it’s shot.   The clutch is prob tight from sitting and full of junk.   Best to pull the cover and clean it out and see how everything looks. 

I would order a full gasket kit once you see if its worth going  forward.  

The exhaust looks fine  that cloth wrap is a high heat tape that’s commonly used on motorcycle, atv and dirt bikes. The DG pipe is a good brand  pipe. Take it off wire brush and paint with high heat flat black paint. 

If the engine is shot the bike parts are worth money. Head assembly, plastics etc but yiu need to clean them up and sell on CL worst case.   

But see how it goes first. 

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The guy said it ran 3 years ago- I'm thinking just a kit like this  https://www.ebay.com/i/254125926644?chn=ps for $100 and get it running but if you dont think it's worth it than yea I could part it out.  I'm thinking it just built up moisture from sitting outside or maybe it was flooded when he parked it...  but yea I'll take pics once I got it apart.  It also needs a manifold boot as the other one had a crack in it and then came apart lol

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Honestly I would not spend any money until it’s apart and you know the cylinder/engine are good.  If it’s just a rust lip in the cylinder that needs to be cleaned and honed then it’s a score and a gasket kit only.  If it’s a strong motor then it’s worth fixing and selling.  Cosmetic work is easy. 

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it’s a possibility to find another bike for a fair price even if you have to wait for one to come along.  $1500 is too high I think.   But I would def play around with this one in the mean time. Learn a few things about the motor and how it works etc.   As far as plastics and the rest of the parts on the bike of in good shape can be worth a good piece of change. 

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yea I'm thinking it's gonna be best to take the rest of the bike apart and clean it up and sell piece by piece on ebay or CL..  Does anyone know if there is a parts diagram for this bike?  I'm wondering if the parts might sell faster if listed with part number.  But yea I was thinking about taking the crankcase apart and giving my brain a visual on how all the crap in there works...

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