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Exploiting a loop hole in the law, turn 4 wheeler into rev trike
for a long while I have been trying to get a real 4 wheeler street legal.
the problem is with the state laws, if it has 4 wheels, its a car and has mega more rules.
If it only has 3 wheels, its a trike and can be made from cobbled junk parts held together with duct tape and they will plate it
I wonder if anyone would have insight on changing a 4 wheeler over to a single rear wheel?
[ I can't afford some $40-60,000 canam or super bike modded into a car, rev trike kit ]
I want something I can truly ride year round on and off road. Ive rode enough old Honda 3 wheelers that I know I do not want a traditional motorcycle trike. So the single wheel has to go out back.
By colin james
View File 1996-2000 Polaris Sportsman 335/500 Service Manual
This is the factory service manual for the polaris sportsman 335 & 500.
You can download the section you need or download all of the chapters for the complete manual
Submitter colin james Submitted 10/19/2018 Category Polaris ATV
By Christian Brindle
I have a 2000 Polaris Sportsman 500. A year or so ago we got it running after replacing the kill switch. It ran great but after some use for a couple months it got a flat tire and for some reason we just forgot about it and it sat for some time. Before it sat i replaced the gas cap, fuel filter, fuel pump, petcock, battery, starter relay, oil and oil filter. I recently went to start it and it started so quickly and without choke or throttle but the ATV wouldn't move till about 1/4 throttle and it wasn't really a smooth ride until 1/2 throttle. it also would bog out randomly after you came to a stop and sounded like it was getting too much fuel. I cleaned the carb and adjusted the air/fuel screw to 1 3/4 turns out. I also messed with the idle and the throttle cable adjuster up on the handlebars. It's safe to say it now runs worse than when i started working on it 2 days ago. It takes more effort to get started and bogs out idling after about 30 seconds. I tried adjusting the idle but every time i do it'll get to a sweet spot but after driving it down the driveway and back the idle will go up and down to the point where i can't put it in gear because the gears will grind. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
So my parents have not let me get my license yet and I need to get around to gets parts and stuff. Answer: Yamaha CW50 scooter. This is a 2-cycle self-mixing scooter that so far, I am really surprised with the power output and speed. It reaches about 45mph since the speedo has been disconnected and has plenty of power for two riders. Its stupid looking, but with some work and a title and plate, it'll take me around town.. My issue is this: No key. I bought it for $150 from a friend and he bought it from someone for $100 who wired in a switch in place of the ignition. That guy got it form his neighbor who's renter left it behind. The scooter will run with this switch on or off (kill switch on handlebar kills engine) To get it tiled and a plate so its road worthy, I need to get the ignition working either by a replacement key or a new ignition. All wires are cut to the ignition and the switch turned on the power to the signal light switch. Also, the 2-cycle oil was leaking out the carb, through the air filter and onto the scooter. also, it runs great, but its making blue smoke with throttle and the muffler is wet with oil.
(I have new signal lights for it btw) So the issues I have with it summed up:
No key (need new ignition) smokes burnt out headlight- can I replace them with LEDs?
Passing thought here and thought I'd pitch it to the group for debate. I'm working through a Kodiak which is basically a Big Bear in a heavier bike and the same as about anything Japanese made for 30 years as far as clutch function and design goes. This Kodiak is odd though in that the centrifugal clutch slipped a bit with good clutch material remaining and the main clutch pack seems to slip a bit as well at high RPM but also still has good clutch material left. Much like the Kawa race bikes from what I've read. Do you think it's an option to add a thin washer to the pressure bolts to put a bit more pressure on the main clutch and force it to use a bit more of the clutch material before having to replace? There's seriously like 50% of fiber left on the main clutch pack and it seems silly to replace it all before it's truly worn down.
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