Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I tried to turn my Warn Vantage 2000 into neutral to spool out the line and the clutch is very stiff... I got it.

When trying to engage it again, it was also very stiff and I ended up breaking off the thumb tab -- so I guess I will need to buy a new gear end housing for that.

Anyway, is there some maintenance that is needed to keep the clutch turning smoothly or some trick I am missing?

Posted

Eventually they pick up mud and crap and will need to be cleaned out. I had my original WARN winch for 10 years and always worked well. I would take it apart every few years and clean it out. Sold it with the machine and it was still working well. One trick I use is when I am ready to wind the cable back on to the spool I use one of those battery jump boxes to power it to wind the cable back on. This way I can hold some tension on the cable so it lays on the spool better.

Mike

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I ended up taking apart the gear housing, cleaned everything, greased it up and got it back together, but for some reason the clutch is still very stiff to move.

Anyway, because it is a Warn and only 1.5 years old, I dropped it at the Warn service center so they can bring it back to working condition and fix the part with the broken thumb tab too. I don't really like these winches with the round clutch -- hard to grab onto and turn when you are sinking in the mud hole. I probably should have bought the provantage 2500 -- it looks to have a better clutch setup.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadnut20
      Just picked up a 2025 Yamaha Kodiak 700 fixing to do a EPI Clutch mod to it since I dropped bigger tires on it !! Air box , exhaust , and programmer next ! 

    • By wilmpie
      hi everybody
       
      I have a kymco mxu 250 automatic from 2006 250 cc  that keeps going forwards or backwards when i shift backwards or forwards an then shift to neutral .
      if i shutdown the motor and push the quad and restart then its in neutral and don't go forwards or backwards, i already checkt if my motor is running good stationairy .
       
      what can it be or what can i do to fix this?
      thanx in advance
      p.s. Sorry for my bad english it's not my first language.
       
       
       
    • By T37Mark
      HI everyone. New to this forum. I have 98 Kawasaki Bayou 400 with an apparent electrical issue. I have the Clymer manual, but I am not exactly sure where to start. The issue started a month ago and the neutral light would go on and off intermittently. Eventually it went completely off , and I thought it was a shifting issue. I took the case off and checked the clutch and all mechanical shifting components are good, so I think I eliminated that. The switch sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Last time I tried, I did hear a clicking sound near where the battery is right before the light went out. Does anyone have any ideas where to start? Hoping this is an easy fix.
    • By sunn
      The clutch engagement on my 2021 cforce 400s was approx 2700 RPM, very abrupt/not smooth.   I obtained a "kit" from RNG consisting of a blue painted spring (spring force unknown) with 12 gram weights, as measured on my postal scale.  Installation was easy; 18 mm and 30 mm (not 32 mm as seen on other writings) impact sockets for clutch housing removal.  The resultant clutch engagement was still up to approx 2500 and very abupt/not smooth.
       The original spring was labeled p/n 0951-1021 (specs for spring force 300/1600) with 18 gram weights.
      I called RNG who told me the kit should work fine for my ATV, but that wasn't the case as I found.  
      The RNG spring was slightly longer than the stock spring, but felt slightly easier at initial downward force but had more resistance than stock as I continued to push down.  RNG would not tell me what the spring force was.
      I then tested the clutch with the RNG spring and the OEM 18 gram weights with the resultant engagement RPM of about 2050 RPM, a little smoother engagement but still not good.
      I am really struggling to get any answers on the best combination of spring / weights to achieve a smooth engagement of maybe 1800 RPM.  Note; idle RPM is approx. 1600.
      I have searched all the forums and cannot find good information, and RNG appears to be not willing to share information.  What gives here?  Anyone with experience to share?
    • By hunky
      This old boy has been coastal so lots of rust. But when I turn the key, nothing. Green neutral light works, head/tail lights work. Was running fine when I parked it for a few months.. no issues with starter. This did happen once before (last year).. not sure what overcame it.. maybe playing around with gear shifter.. but not sure if that was what did it. But doesn't seem to do anything now when I play around with it while hitting the start button.
      I did take apart the handlebar mounted start button housing and looked it over. Couldn't figure anything out there, but looked the same as when I had the problem last year. Put my probes on various wires there but didn't learn anything.. not sure how it is wired.
      So this first image there is a connector with 2 wires coming from forward (the male part of connector) - one blue and one blue w/ red stripe. The blue continues down to a post near where the gear shifter enters the housing. (Second image). I was wondering about that.. I opened up the connector and the 2 wires (coming from forward) show continuity when I put my probes on 'em. Thought that was weird, but maybe supposed to be like that? I turned on the key and tested for voltage but didn't find any.
      I'm just unaware of how to test for anything. Would be interesting to put 12 volts to the starter, but not sure about doing that or how. The wires going in are kind of hard to get to. I suppose I could take out the starter.. but wanted to ask if there is something easier to check first.
      Thanks for looking!
       

×
×
  • Create New...