Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys,

I am hoping someone might be able to help me out. My Kawasaki 300 4x4 has an issue where it doesn't seem to want to go into neutral and also it will shift into reverse without using the lockout knob.

If anyone can suggest what to look at it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks.

Posted

Hey Richard, welcome to Quadcrazy.  What year is the bike?

That lock out knob, when you turn it, is there spring  loaded pressure that returns it back?

On the left side of the engine where the shifter is there is the reverse cam lock out that the cable leads to.  Follow that down and see if anything is jamming it up the cable.   If not the problem may be under that cover where the actual reverse cam is. But I don’t know the year and some vary.   The cover that houses that part is called  the bevel gear cover. It’s a bi*** to get off but doable. Unfortunately the engine bolts all need to come off and the left foot rest  as well. 

Its possible the spring is bad or worse the shaft inside is broke. 

But before you get into all that do some simple testing first and go through all the gears etc and see if anything else is not right.

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Wow, thanks Frank for taking the time to post such a detailed reply that is really going to help me out a lot.

I am not 100% on the year but I think it's around '95.

The knob still feels spring loaded but possibly not as strong as it was.

I will have a look at the things you have suggested tomorrow and post back with what I find.

Thanks again for your help.

Posted

Unfortunately I didn't have enough time to give this issue a good looking at today but I had a quick look and now the issue has completely changed to where the bike is stuck in neutral which has really confused me now 🤔

The shifter feels like its shifting but the neutral light stays on?

Posted

My guess is that shaft on the reverse cam is broken leaving the neutral light on. If I’m correct that means the engine gets split. 

I would start by locating that light green wire over that bevel gear cover and unplug it.  If the neutral light goes off then the problem is under that cover.  

 

78CBA34A-A767-4C3B-9D98-A234A277757F.jpeg

When your ready to pull that cover let me know I will walk you through it. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

The picture here is the reverse cam.   The neutral safety switch sits right over it. It’s held in by two Philips screws circled in yellow. The red circle is the spring loaded contact on the reverse cam.  The back side of neutral safety switch has two copper circles under it. That tab on the reverse cam touches the copper circles turning the neutral light on (green wire) and the reverse light (red wire) that’s all done by shifting which happens when you shift gears that shaft rotates and turns the cam into position.  So I’m thinking that that shaft is not rotating. 

F70D4ABC-6D2F-47B3-9376-3E4C172963A5.jpeg

  • Thanks 1
Posted

OK so I unplugged the green wire and the neutral light did go off. When I reconnected it with the key in the on position there was an audible click from the relay on the battery box  is that normal?

I assume that the oil needs to be drained before pulling the cover, is that correct?

Thanks again for your help.

Posted

Yes the relay should have clicked. That completes the starting circuit.

The bevel gear cover when unbolted will not slide off because the shifter shaft prevents it from sliding off due to the close proximity to the frame.  So two ways to do this. One way is to pull the engine out of the bike and make the repair. This may be the best way to go for you since the problem may be deeper inside the engine. 

Second way: The oil does get drained, the engine mount bolts all need to be taken out including the bolt/brackets on the top and front of the engine. These are triangular shaped brackets that are bolted to the frame and the engine.  They both have to come out for clearance. The left foot rest needs to come off as well.  The exhaust silencer gets taken off so when you raise the engine it does not twist the exhaust or put pressure on the pipe coming from the engine. There are four nuts 12mm holding the rear axle shaft to the engine they  come off as well but not until the last minute  and see if the engine moves up without taking them out. If not then take them off.  

Once thats all done the engine should be pried up gently, have some wood wedges ready to stick in between the engine and frame to keep it up.  Just don’t force it. The engine should move up freely and only need to go up about two inches max. 

After thats done you should be able to take that cover off. 

Make sure all the bolts are off the bevel gear cover and tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it. 

Lastly I want to mention one important thing. Take a big piece of cardboard, as you remove bolts put a hole in the cardboard, stick the bolt in and write on the cardboard with a  marker where it came from. 

Good luck. I will be checking in to see how your doing.  Take pics.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you yet again Frank for taking the time to help.

I will have to tear into this as soon as I have enough time to dedicate to it, it sounds like one of those jobs where if you stop and come back to it later you will have forgotten where things go.

I am sure I will be back with more questions to get me through this process.

I cant thank you enough for your assistance buddy.

Posted

Make sure that little lever that the reverse cable goes to isn't jammed with crap potentially causing your issue before taking the bike apart.  I had a Kawasaki and the reverse lever got a stick in it and I could not for the life of mr get it into neutral.  Took the stick out and works great

  • Thanks 1
Posted

So I pulled the cover off that exposes the lever at the end of the reverse cable and it was all caked with hard mud, dry grass and all sorts of junk, cleaned all that stuff out and made a small adjustment to the reverse cable and now it seems to be working! 😁

I am happy that it was an easy fix... for now at least.

Thank you both for making the effort to help me out!  

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

So I'm having a similar problem on my KEF300 ('95 Lakota)... it will shift right past neutral and into reverse without touching the reverse knob. both the neutral and reverse indicator lights illuminate as they should, there is just no lockout. My reverse knob still has spring tension and will snap back. I've removed the left side crank cover and as able to locate the switch, spring, cam, and pin thats been discussed in this thread... but all looks a-ok, the cam is intact, the spring is good, the pin behind the switch. yet, with all this apart, I can actuate the gear shifter by hand and go straight from neutral into reverse (lights reports this) and never touching the reverse knob/lever (and with no cable tension attached)

What does this mean? I'm afraid the next steps involve removing the motor and splitting the case.

 

PXL_20210109_175529523.thumb.jpg.210a9d27b97265a15038b7cd635090b1.jpg.

 

 

 

Edited by Hodadical
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 1/10/2021 at 6:38 AM, Hodadical said:

So I'm having a similar problem on my KEF300 ('95 Lakota)... it will shift right past neutral and into reverse without touching the reverse knob. both the neutral and reverse indicator lights illuminate as they should, there is just no lockout. My reverse knob still has spring tension and will snap back. I've removed the left side crank cover and as able to locate the switch, spring, cam, and pin thats been discussed in this thread... but all looks a-ok, the cam is intact, the spring is good, the pin behind the switch. yet, with all this apart, I can actuate the gear shifter by hand and go straight from neutral into reverse (lights reports this) and never touching the reverse knob/lever (and with no cable tension attached)

What does this mean? I'm afraid the next steps involve removing the motor and splitting the case.

 

PXL_20210109_175529523.thumb.jpg.210a9d27b97265a15038b7cd635090b1.jpg.

 

 

 

Hi mate, Did you end up figuring out what was wrong? I just got a KLF300 and the initially shifting gears was extremely hard and stiff, then it started doing exactly what you have described. It will shift into reverse straight past neutral without using the reverse lever. Also the neutral light and reverse light stopped working so perhaps the switch is faulty so i bridged out the green wire to ground so it will start now. 

 

When the bike is off i am able to get it into neutral but when it is running it just goes straight past neutral into reverse. 

 

Thanks. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/7/2022 at 1:58 PM, Quadman11 said:

Hi mate, Did you end up figuring out what was wrong? I just got a KLF300 and the initially shifting gears was extremely hard and stiff, then it started doing exactly what you have described. It will shift into reverse straight past neutral without using the reverse lever. Also the neutral light and reverse light stopped working so perhaps the switch is faulty so i bridged out the green wire to ground so it will start now. 

 

When the bike is off i am able to get it into neutral but when it is running it just goes straight past neutral into reverse. 

 

Thanks. 

Hi mate did you sort this out? Mine is doing the same thing. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By hengstserepair
      Howdy ya'll. I am working ona 2000 Yamaha Breeze 125. It was in rought shape when I received it and I am working through issues as they pop up. The quad had been sitting for years. I was able to get her running again, but I need your help with the following issue:
      I don't trust the transmission yet and I don't want to make problems any worse. So, I haven't pushed things hard at all. Low rpms, less than 5mph in reverse.

      Nuetral: Runs as expected
      Reverse: She seems to be driving fine at slow speeds. Going into reverse at idle is fine, coming out of reverse back into neutral won't work (the shifter is just stuck). As soon as I turn off the quad, I am able to shift around without any issue.
      Forward: It slips. It seems to only transfer power to the wheels on a smooth surface and going slightly downhill. When shifting into forward at idle, there is a clacking sounds during the transition. Shifting back to nuetral works just fine.

      Other Notable Symptoms: There was old oil in the vbelt and when I was tuning the carb, it starting blowing out of the CVT cooling vent at the front of the quad. Made quite a mess. There is positive crankcase pressure due to piston blowby, that I have not decided whether or not I am going to fix (customer budget dependant).  Since the oil was old, much darker than the new oil that is in the crankcase, I am thinking it seeped past a bad seal while it was sitting for years. The oil that was in it when I first got it had gas in it.

      Thoughts: I am thinking maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I worry about the old oil intermingling with the dry centrifugal clutch. I was thinking my next step would be to take the cover off of the clutch and inspect it.

      Let me know what you all think. Any advice and ideas is greatly appreciated. This is only the 3rd quad I have worked on and I have a lot to learn.

      Lorne
    • By Jdeaton011989
      Hi all. I have a timberwolf 250 2nd that will not start.. I thought it was out of time bc the guy I got it from said it just quit on him. The tensioner had a nut welded to it and it was like2 teeth off. I installed new tensioner and chain and it still will not start. It has fire and it will not hit off brake cleaner. It has compression. Haven't put a gauge but I'm sure it will crank and run with what it has. I double checked my work and it's still in time. Spot on. Both valves move. I'm about to put a feeler gauge on them and I'll cone back but other than that any ideas?
    • By toe420
      Anyone here from BC? Where do you ride? 
    • By rjsummer
      I just bought a 1984 Suzuki LT185 ATV and am looking for the OWNER’S manual. ( not a service manual) 
      I contacted Suzuki Canada but they have no paper or digital copies in their archives. 
      Does anyone possibly have a digital copy they’d be willing to share? 
×
×
  • Create New...