Picked up 93 suzuki quadrunner 250 2x4

[pablo Blake]

Its in pretty rough shape and its gonna be my first atv, I worked on bikes before but nothing to do with quads. Anyways the quad has some problems and im tryna figure out what to focus on first. So the U joints i think are shot. The bike starts first try every time ussually have to give it a lil gas with the throttle and revs right up, idles fine but its running REALLY rich 3 starts and my brand new plug was pitch black

Bike is L model

Its using the original mikuni carb but im not the best at fixing the carbs and wondering if there is anywhere online that would be able to either walk me through it or help me with it i didnt see a air mixture screw so it seems like im gonna half to open it up and adjust like the float and a couple other things

Edited December 29, 2019 by pablo Blake

[Dra O]

You know the drill re: youtube and carb rebuilds.  you might take a look at that the post i have on here ("1999 Suzuki king quad fuel pump/petcock/carb advice") - it's pretty detailed and these guys helped tremendously.  I had some really good advice on the float in that post.  there are separate carb breakdown/cleaning topics on here, too.

look on this site for a service manual for your toy - if not available here, look on ebay - I picked one up (PDF) off ebay for around 6 bucks.

at least the beast is running, man!  that's a HUGE head start

i'll be following your post and seeing what the experts have to offer

[Frank Angerano]

Nice project bike to start off with. If she starts up straight away then half the battle is over ! But before you start to tear the carburetor off double check its not something as simple as the choke being stuck.  If its a black plug and a little black smoke coming from the exhaust then  it could be a stuck or broken choke cable or at the carburetor where the choke device is. 
If not then yes you have to go deeper into the carburetor.   
As far as U joints go its not a crazy big deal on most atvs. 
 

[pablo Blake]

The thing is the guy welded these u joints into place so im kinda stuck for how to get them off, And yeah the choke and throttle cable boot is completely disentegrated so it might be those it self, i can quite litterally rev the bike by pulling on the throttle cable near the carb same with bogging it down with the choke, Im contemplating sanding them out with a dremel and than knocking them out and making it flush again than reinstall new greaseable ujoints but idk the half shaft it self is quite old too, Would i be better going off with a new one. Im suspecting as he welded it might have heated it up and warped the knuckle whats creating a lot of the play

 

Edited December 29, 2019 by pablo Blake

[Dra O]

https://www.d2moto.com/products/1985-1992-suzuki-quadracer-250-lt250r-throttle-cable?CAWELAID=230002470000188852&msclkid=6e9a568e5ee214d6d4960886939d82f2

unsure of the shipping from this site - most cables look like they run around $12-15 - Walmart uses third party sellers that have been decent for me on price and delivery

[pablo Blake]

Im good with grabbing new cables but the thing is i didnt notice any spring action when playing with them feels like they just drop or up, I think i might be missing a spring in the carb, i just realized, Know if the cable it self will come with that spring

Edited December 29, 2019 by pablo Blake

[Frank Angerano]

Welded the U joints?? Ugh some people!! Post a few pics i have to see this.   
As far as the choke goes; locate the choke at the carburetor and get familiar with how it works, then after the bike is warmed up and running you have to verify that it's releasing and turning off allowing the proper amount of air flow into the engine.  There are a few different types of chokes so I'm not sure what is on yours.  Don't be shy and never be afraid to ask questions. Post a ton of pics and we will help you along wherever you need it.    Looks like you have a nice little place to work on the bike there too! 
 

The cable will not come with the spring. The sprig actuation happens atv the carburetor so it could be as simple as that for the throttle and choke.  

[pablo Blake]

I'll post some pics after this last christmas party today than i can dedicate some more time to it. All i really know is i've never worked on one like it. Only screw i can find to adjust anything externally on this mikuni is the idle/pilot screw

Edited December 29, 2019 by pablo Blake

[Frank Angerano]

Ok well its not rocket science and I'm sure your more then capable to do this based on what i've seen from the pics and the way you are posting so you got this! 
But def going to need some undisturbed time so do what you have to do and when your ready to tackle it have a clean work area, piece of cardboard and a sharpie to write  on as well as a separate piece to be able to stick bolts and screws in to properly label and keep track of where they came from.  
U joints all though i haven't seen a pic yet but im assuming the welds will be hard to grind so if thats the case get familiar with a pencil grinder! Best tool on the planet for getting rid of welds in tight places.  
 

[Stitch196369]

 I downloaded a good manual from this site for my 1989 lt f250. I've gotten lots of help from this site also so good luck with your new venture.

2 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Ok well its not rocket science and I'm sure your more then capable to do this based on what i've seen from the pics and the way you are posting so you got this! 
But def going to need some undisturbed time so do what you have to do and when your ready to tackle it have a clean work area, piece of cardboard and a sharpie to write  on as well as a separate piece to be able to stick bolts and screws in to properly label and keep track of where they came from.  
U joints all though i haven't seen a pic yet but im assuming the welds will be hard to grind so if thats the case get familiar with a pencil grinder! Best tool on the planet for getting rid of welds in tight places.  
 

 

[pablo Blake]

Yeah i just grabbed the manual and giving it a once over well i match sh** up, I was looking for the oil filter location but as far as i can tell it doesnt have one. Finished the party and emptied the oil, Smelt like solid gas and was BROWN black. gonna have to give it a good flush, Is that gas most likely from it running so rich? or is it some kind of gasket leak to the crank case

Edited December 29, 2019 by pablo Blake

[pablo Blake]

Attached some pics of the carb that im working with, Before i even get it out want to see what i have to do and than get it done. any tips for getting the exterior cleaned up also? want to get bike back to looking brand new

Edited December 29, 2019 by pablo Blake

[Frank Angerano]

Looks pretty straight forward. The cables look a little bent over more then usual.  Once you pull the carburetor off your going to need two cans of carburetor cleaner spray. I use gum out.  Spray the outside down and let it sit for a little bit and then wipe it down good. You can use Q Tips to get in small spots and loosen dirt.  I like to put the carburetor in a frisbee or a low tupperwear container to work on.   Definitely going to have to look into the cable connection points to see whats happening there. 

Is it me or does it look a little burnt in the area of the carburetor? No evidence of a fire at all ? It just looks a little dark. 

[pablo Blake]

I looked and checked everything doesnt seem to be any evidence of a fire Wiring harness is decent and the plastic and seat are all intact so i mean it looks fine, Im guessing some idiot sprayed carb clean on it and accidentally lit it on fire. Never know what the previous owners couldve done to it. The throttle cable i can quite literally Pull right out of the carb and the only thing connecting it is the cable which it revs to all sh** when i do it, im scared to even take it on a trail before i figure this out because it seems like if i hit a nasty bump the throttle is gonna jump, ussually i'll give a machine a feel ride before taking it apart when i first get it. So i can feel whats wrong with it. deeper into the bike but this i was scared to even kick on outta neutral unless i had full control of the bike

Edited December 30, 2019 by pablo Blake

[Frank Angerano]

Good move on not taking it out yet. Anything else you can deal with, a run away throttle not so easy.    Get that right and go from there.   That throttle connection screws into the carburetor so check its not broken in the carburetor.  

[Nick Brooks]

Some of the third party manuals say the pilot screw is 1 7/8 turns out, my 93 LT-4WD ran way too lean and would puke it's guts out.  I scored a factory manual off ebay for it, and it states 2 full turns on the pilot screw.  Pulled the carb again and set to 2 turns which did the trick.  Would also be worth double checking the needle and seat aren't sticking wide open.

[Nick Brooks]

Sorry, that should be 2 7/8's out on the pilot screw.

[Frank Angerano]

2-7/8 sounds like a lot but give it a shot and see how it goes. 
 

[Nick Brooks]

That's what I thought as well, but it's running like it did when it was new at that setting.

[Frank Angerano]

I hear ya and agree, the best part about this type of situation is all the members that go through this get very good at pulling the carburetor off so making several adjustments gets less difficult.   

[pablo Blake]

Yeah the factory manual i have doesnt say anything about the turns, Im gonna pull it off tonight and give it a good clean and look. Also the air box has some oil like stuff in it good way to clean it out when getting it off? Can i use like brake cleaner or something like that or should i use carb cleaner since its ment to be used on something that fuel is gonna go through.

Ended up picking up a fram ch6066 today gonna install it after i give everything a good clean and give the float a check

Edited January 1, 2020 by pablo Blake

[Frank Angerano]

Brake or carburetor cleaner will work fine. Let us know how it goes. 

[Nick Brooks]

The manual I have is a later revision, and has the turns in an appendix.  Carb cleaner should do the trick to clean out the air box.  

[Dra O]

"I hear ya and agree, the best part about this type of situation is all the members that go through this get very good at pulling the carburetor off so making several adjustments gets less difficult."  He's got that right - "Frank" was not the name I'd given him when he recommended that I remove my king quad carb AGAIN to make adjustments - but it was worth it - he's a great teacher - and you do become somewhat of an expert at putting it back on (and taking it out, and putting it back on, and taking it out....).

here are some tools I used to help:

old long allen head wrench (used to put furniture together) - grinded off end to width of air/fuel screw under carb:  it's long enough to access from the side

"ol' red" - rounded/sanded an old slot head screwdriver: comes in handy when inserting TIGHT ARSE rubber boot between air box and carb - this gave me fits to no end - a bit of grease on inner lining helps, too

old open end 12mm wrench for throttle cable - thinned it out w/ grinder: helps with final tightening of throttle cable to carb - this was difficult to get started but eventually seats  

 

[Frank Angerano]

Well done @Dra O  great job on the custom tools. 

And the positive comments! 

[pablo Blake]

Definitely gonna try that next thing im looking for is a bolt sizing chart for the atv or something along those lines cause a lot of bolts are missing. Gonna try and clean out the air filter it looks old and clogged as sh** i read that i can clean it instead of replacing should i clean or replace with a k&n

Edited January 1, 2020 by pablo Blake

[Frank Angerano]

You can clean it but it may be better to replace it at this point.  At some point they start to break apart and thats a bad thing should any pieces get sucked into the carburetor.    

[pablo Blake]

Will do im looking at a uni competition airfilter , Now im kinda stuck because the bike is missing a bunch of bolts and some broke. Been trying to find either a whole new set or a place with the sizes of the nuts and bolts and screws on the diagram

Edited January 2, 2020 by pablo Blake

[Frank Angerano]

Good idea on the air filter and the brand is good. 
Heres a set of nuts and bolts I have used in the past. Its been great since i have used it over many projects but its $98.00. Mine has paid for itself already but there are smaller sets available.   
Metric Class 8.8 Hex Cap Flange Frame Bolts & Flange Nuts Assortment Kit - 429 Pieces! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYF0OHX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AQDdEb7RZ6D8D

[pablo Blake]

I'm gonna go to the local hardware store and see if they have any that match up to this pitch and diameter in the same length for cheaper and just the ones i need https://specbolt.com/technical-faq/

I was looking everywhere for those numbers and specbolt just throws em at you

 

Quote

Common metric thread pitch for motorcycle and ATV uses are M4-.7, M5-.8, M6-1.0, M8-1.25, M10-1.5, M12-1.75, M14-2.0 and M16-2.0

if not theres a couple places local that make bolts that i can probably order a shipment of the ones i need from, I just dont feel like using my tap and die set on every goddamn screw/bolt to resize it to commonly available threads

Edited January 2, 2020 by pablo Blake