Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

TrailBlazer 250 Oil Bypass


Recommended Posts



I don't think you will see oil flowing.   Its a slow flow plus the dark color. 
Most of the oil tanks are a light plastic color so you can see the oil level.  If you have doubts the oil is not flowing you can mark the tank's oil level  with a marker and monitor it. If your sure its not working then yea you can pre mix and be done.     

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there a reason to block it off? I’m positive it’s dead, I replaced the line from the pump to the carb and see nothing. And that working the pump at idle. Can I just leave it and run 40:1? See how it goes? Get it magically starts working again, I guess I’ll know quick.

Link to post
Share on other sites


Ok so here’s where I’m at. I bypassed the Oiler and went to 40:1 mix. Pulled carb and cleaned because it wouldn’t idle. Runs perfect now, but hangs rpms.... if you rev it slowly revs back down. Normal on these old 2 strokes? I checked to make sure nothing was sticking on the throttle. It drops right jack down. Also what is the air mixture screw setting suppose to be? I’ve seen mixed thoughts from 1 turn to 2 1/2 turns..... would sucking air cause it to hang rpms? Doesn’t do while riding that I notice just when you free rev it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Slow return to idle generally is caused by a lean condition.  Lean condition can be caused by either too small of a main jet or too much air rushing in.  I'd check for vacuum leaks personally.  When you bypassed the oiler, did you block off that port?  I would seriously doubt it's caused by too small of a jet, but i guess could be a partial obstruction.  May also check the throttle butterfly closing without the cable attached.  I had one a bit ago that had a bit of stickiness in the throttle just enough to not slap shut the way it should.  Ended up needing a good soak and some light oil and it slapped shut afterwards and stopped the slow return to idle.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I pulled belt cover and sprayed starter fluid behind the clutch while it was running, with no effect in rpms. Also sprayed all of the carb and intake boot, along with pull start start of the crank. Nothing caused a spike in rpm. Would the muffler having the end cut off cause the rpms to hang from lean condition? I know on 4 strokes, specially cruiser bikes if you cut the pipes you usually have to rejet it....

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you actually looked into the back of the carburetor and opened the throttle and let off to see that its just not a cable issue? 
Leave the engine off and look into the back of the carburetor with no air filter on.   Press the throttle all the way and let it go quickly.  See if it slowly closes.  If so it could be a throttle cable that has a worn lining or I've seen a throttle cable not routed properly and to close to the engine head. It melted causing the inner liner to melt and bind the cable.   

Link to post
Share on other sites


Pull the slide back out and try it while its out of the carb.  See if it moves freely that way 
 

If so  then its internal to the carburetor and may be the main jet port where the needle slides in could be scuffed or damaged. Also check the needle and make sure its not bent. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a carb apart recently that had a bit of sand through it (mud/water 4x4) and it scarred the slide and throat.  Just had to take it out and work the slide and throat real good with a brown paper bag.  Slid up and down flawlessly afterwards.

Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Steve Howard
      I picked up this ranger cheap because the AWD wasn't working. I checked it out and had 12.5 volts at the diff if I unhook the ground from the harness and run a straight ground from the frame it engages. What could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated!
    • By NoahJakavi
      Hello i have a linhai 300 of the 2004+- era. I had a cluch problem so we changed it. After changing it has a hard time to start going. When you pop it into gear and press the gas it barely drives but when it starts going about 20km/h it start driving well the acceleration is normal and everything do you have any idea of what could be the problem
    • By KX420Guy
      Hey guys, Im new here but I recently Picked up a '99 Foreman 400 that apparently just had a top end rebuild. It blows white smoke like crazy and ticks/knocks and seems to follow the rpm's. I haven't done to much trouble shooting yet, It starts and runs like a champ and has good compression. I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to where to go.
      Oh ya the top end rebuild the guy did was according to him he honed the cylinder and replaced the piston and rings, my fear is an ovaled cylinder?
    • By Roy Anderson
      I have had a 2002 Suzuki King Quad 500 for almost a year. This is a question I’ve posted before, but likely missed the answer due to being new to the site. Here’s the issue. When in 4 wheel drive, especially in low range, especially when pulling a load downhill, I hear a lot of clanking in the front end. As if the front drive shaft was binding then unbinding. A friend who had a 1987 Dodge 4x4, told me all the noise his front end made when in 4 wheel drive was entirely normal. So, is this something I should worry about? I have all the bodywork and tank off right now doing a valve adjustment and carb rebuild. If I gotta do something, I’d like to do it now. Lastly, I’d love to find a carb tuning guide for this era of Mikuni. Haven’t tracked one down yet. Any thoughts of where to find one? Great forum. Have really enjoyed it so far.
    • By sammyshin
      Hey so i have a 1990 bayou 220, and its missing the wiring harness so i went online and bought a bayou 300 wiring harness by mistake. Will it work if i use the 220’s cdi box and ignition coil?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...