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Another one back from the dead (1997 King Quad 300 LT-FWDX)


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Yeah but don't bother measuring the gap.  Just loosen it and see if it starts.  You can run a 1/8 inch gap.  If that's the problem, it will eat through .001 in no time.

I used to run 1/8 gap at the start of the day and by the end it had eaten it up.  Most of the time I didn't bother to find TDC, I just loosened the lash however much and went.

I'm almost positive that's your problem.

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So loosening the lash fixed it?  Now you have to figure out about how much of the valve is worn so you know how much time you have left.  Basically you're at the end when the adjuster screw is flush with the bottom of the rocker, so if it has a long way to go then the valve is just starting to wear.

Once it's warm it should start, so you could loosen the lash to get the engine warm then tighten it again to keep the valve from wearing.

What's happening is the valve isn't contacting the seat, so it can't hold the compression.  Somehow that doesn't matter once it's warm.

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Wonder if thermal expansion opens up the seat enough to function when warm? There appears to be a lot of adjuster screw left above the nut, it seemed kind of “tall” to me in comparison with others I had seen. I bet that one of the recent PO’s did a halfassed valve job on it.  Do you think switching the current cam over into that one and installing it would correct the issue?

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The intake valve is open all the time whether hot or cold, but it only affects starting when cold.  I can only guess why.  Maybe it has something to do with the propensity of the gas to ignite.

5 minutes ago, Hagbard said:

There appears to be a lot of adjuster screw left above the nut, it seemed kind of “tall” to me

The screw above the nut is what's used up.  Eventually you'll have to take the screw all the way out.  So however many threads are below the nut is how much you have left.

Switching cams wouldn't change anything because it's the part of the cam with no lobes that would affect it.

Now I see why they sold it cheap.  Things are starting to make sense.  Luckily it won't take much to fix it.

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I was thinking that I wouldn't blame those guys too much because I can't remember how many intake valves I've installed without cutting the seat, but I always attributed the wearing to bad air filtration.  Finally after making the same mistake over and over it dawned on me that there is no way to replace a valve without cutting the seat.  No one told me that in all my reading.  I mean, I might have seen it suggested, but not emphatically necessitated.

Any wearing at all on the seat is not going to mesh with the new valve and all that's needed is to wear the hardness off the valve and it's gone.  It's imperative to have the valve and seat at exactly the same angle.  It's also important to have the contact patch in the center of the valve footprint.

In light of that, I bought my own cutter.  So far I've used it once, so it hasn't paid for itself yet lol.  But after using it I discovered that I'd likely not trust anyone else to do the job.  They could cut corners and most people wouldn't know.

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I legit laughed out loud at “it hasn’t paid for itself yet”. 😂

Got it mostly put back together tonight, still have some odds and ends to sort out but it’s almost resembling a real quad again. 

Cut out some circles of ABS and riveted them over the spots where the fender screws to the rack and cracks 




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8 hours ago, Hagbard said:

This look like anything worth a crap?


Now that you mention it, I think I bought that one or one like it and sent it back.  Seems like it didn't have the cutter I needed because the sizes lie.  So I bit the bullet and bought the pricey one.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/264215390009

And the pilot https://www.ebay.com/itm/263155791974

If I had bought it in 2007 it would have paid for itself a few times by now.  I think that cutter would do every valve on every machine I ever had, except maybe cars.  The cutting teeth adjust in and out to fit a range of seats.

I paid $114 and $24 from the same seller 2 years ago so that's how much prices went up.

Man those plastics look sweet!  I'd be afraid to get any mud on that jolly rancher lol

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So I have to give a whole lot of credit to whoever decided what jets to supply with this carb. They sure aren’t anywhere near what is called for in the manual, and I suspect there may be internal differences in the carburetor that have been accounted for with these jetting choices. The main is a 145, the pilot is unmarked but looks to be somewhere in the 12.5 or smaller range by eyeball😳 but lo and behold, once I got everything straightened out and got it running reliably, putting those jets in made it go like hell and idle nicely. Keep in mind this was a carb that sold for $50 on Amazon, which I got from Amazon warehouse for $20.18 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

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Oooh ok.  It didn't work because of the intake valve.  Are you going to keep it or buy one without the diaphragm?

The jets could be numbered differently and the fact that the pilot doesn't have a number suggests it was a rebuild kit.

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Looks like I'm consistent over a decade lol


On 10/19/2012 at 5:53 PM, JustRandy said:

I guess I need to find a 28mm carb somewhere. That's probably about right for this engine.


On 9/30/2021 at 12:08 PM, JustRandy said:

The 230S and 250S had 26mm carbs, so 28mm is probably right for a 300 (280).

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LOL I was browsing through some threads and saw your old posts that sounded EERILY like the problems I was having lol.  Was thinking today... how about I help you make that seat cutter pay for itself? ;)   I don't want to blow the money on a tool I have zero clue how to use properly, and you seem to know WTF you're doing. I'd just as soon spend the money with you if you don't mind doing the work. If not, say so, and I'll try to track down someone local-ish.

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So back to camshafts...  Still digging around and I found that the "Hot Cams" upgrade for the LT230S is the same part# as the one for the LTZ250.  Specs listed below along with interchange info. LT250S is notably absent, but I know the same cam *should* fit, right?  I can't find any specs about stock cams i.e. lift, duration, etc. so I don't know if this would be an upgrade or not. But not necessarily the HotCams product - think a stock LTZ250 cam would be any good? Thinking more about putting it in the 230 at this point and leaving the KQ alone. I dunno.


Part 2066-1
  • LT 185 QuadRunner (84-87); LT 230 E QuadSport (87-93); LT 230 G (85-86); LT-4WD 250 QuadRunner (87-98); LT-F 250 F QuadRunner 4x4 (99-02); LT-F 250 Ozark 2x4 (02-09,12-14); LT-F 250 QuadRunner 2x4 (88-01); LT-Z 250 QuadSport (04-09)
  • Stage: 1
  • Exhaust Cam Lobe Center100.750°
  • Exhaust Cam Lobe Duration at 1mm237.500°
  • Exhaust Cam Lobe Lift7.570mm
  • Exhaust Cam Valve Lash0.360mm
  • Intake Cam Lobe Center103.500°
  • Intake Cam Lobe Lift8.940mm
  • Intake Cam Valve Lash0.150mm
  • Intake Lobe Duration at 1mm235°

Nevermind. Stock cam is the same "D" version.  At this point I'm wondering about getting the cam reground.

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