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Stuck flywheel


Sketchy

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I use a puller and give them a tap with a hammer.. but if you aren't used to doing things like that it's probably best to buy a custom puller for that job.. They can be had for as little as twenty bucks.. and last forever.. Google flywheel puller and your bike brand.

Are you sure you need the flywheel off ?

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Looks like it, I found a green/red wire from the stator going behind the flywheel cover and it is severed,  not enough behind the cover to splice.   I'll try to post a pic 

It's a project my neighbor gave me,  I replaced the ignition coils,  cdi,  regulator to finally get the plugs to spark. but they only sparked for a second when cranking then quit so I'm thinking of replacing the stator when I saw the g/red wire.

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Put your puller on, wind it up fairly tight.. Then use an eight ounce engineers hammer(engineers hammer !), and give the bolt on the puller a sharp hit. It would pay to be holding the flywheel away from the engine as much as possible.  Not a really hard hit, just swing the hammer a short way, but fast, and let it bounce back away from the puller. Depending on the end of of the shaft, and the end of your puller, it might be best to have the nut on the crank bolt..

That works on most bits of machinery, but some of those cheap import jobs these days are made really really badly, and it is possible that something could get bust.. I'd imagine there are fine threads on or in the outer end of that flywheel. If you measure the diameter of the threads, and using metric bolts to check what pitch the threads are, you can probably buy a puller made for a jap bike. The thread diameter has to be measured to what the outside diameter of the threads are. They will be metric, probably in whole mm. If you have a vernier caliper it will be easy. If not, you might be able to use something like a pair of scissors as a gauge, then apply it to a ruler.

Edited by Mech
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Did you get what I meant about the hammer hit ?

If we want to move a tight shaft in a hole, we use a big hammer and hit hard, and don't let it bounce.. That has a lot of drive to it... and could bend your crank..  Just a short sharp hit, that bounces the hammer back away.. That's what you want.

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Good. Try and hold the flywheel firmly away from the engine when you hit it, even the tiny amount of play in the bearings will help prevent the bearings getting impacted when you hit the puller..

And that's a big puller, it can likely pull with ten tons or more. Don't over tighten it or it may bend that flywheel. The shockwave from the hammer is what's going to loosen the flywheel on the tapered shaft..

Edited by Mech
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Ok, those copper coils will be for battery charging, the two covered ones will be for the cdi charging, and that black box is the trigger coil..  Betcha..

The battery coils will have a low impedence/resistance reading, the two will have higher resistance, and the trigger.. it will have a higher resistance still,..

Pretty sure those cut wires will be neutral light..

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I don't suppose you have a wiring diagram..  It's just possible those wires might go to a neutral switch, that effects the ignition..  Some small two-strokes start up with rev limiters for safety reasons, till they are in gear. If it has a centrifugal clutch, that would be a possibility..

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I checked resistance of the 3 yellow stator wires,  1-2, 2-3, 1-3 , all show about the same ohms 

Assuming the loose green/red wire (the pic of it on my knee)  is a neutral switch,  how do I get to where it plugs in?  Maybe pull covers off the other side?

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But now diagram huh...

Well check for continuity/resistance from the cdi, down to the various windings in the stator. Each wire at the cdi will either have a there and a return wire from the stator, or just one that goes to earth. Just check there is continuity with your ohm meter to start, don't worry about the exact readings..

Then try the same process to trace the wires to the key switch and kill switch..  Try and make a wiring diagram.. Just draw where each wire goes as you check it's continuity. Some wires might go to the switches and to the cdi or stator.. Draw switches as boxes till we figure whether they are meant to be open or closed for run. Draw the stator real basic and don't worry about what set of wires is inside, just where the wires run on the bike.

We can probably make a wiring diagram..  Or a whole new loom if need be.

To test those broken wires on the motor, put it in gear and use the ohm gauge on the bits of wire you can see to check if they are earthed or connected or open circuit. Then put it in neutral and repeat the process.

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