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2006 trx350te Honda rancher 350 es clutch plates


Ejwill

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And, getting the gears to change fully, with the roller going right to the bottom of it's valleys on the star wheel, requires constant rotation of the gear shaft..  That's where people go wrong when working on gearboxes. They put them together, have a quick try at changing gears but have no success, and assume it's just dry and will be ok once the engine is running..  Which is sometimes the case..haha.. and sometimes not. Often not.

Gearboxes have to move from gear to gear under the influence of that roller, and that takes constant rotation of the gear shafts, lots of rotations for every shift. They are designed to take a lot of rotations for each change so the drive dogs that engage don't crash together. They are designed so that the dog is just gradually gaining as they turn, on the gear it wants to engage with. Eventually, after a lot of turns, the dog and the gear align and the roller on the star moves the gears fully into mesh. Then, and only then, you can try for another shift.. 

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Yeah, I looked for it earlier. Traced it from the handle bar to rear of the engine it’s on the back and under the engine a little. I’ll take a look at it a little later when it cools off some our thermometer here at the house had 102F just a little while ago. I’ll get tonight or first thing tomorrow. Probably tonight I can’t put it off or I’ll be thinking about it all night. The shaft you were talking about turning was the change clutch shaft right or was I wrong . Just let me know. Thanks again for the help.

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It sounds like your coming along well , one thing you could do to make sure its completely shifting correctly, is jack up the rear wheels shift to first, turn them to get movement and see if it goes through all the gears, you can feel by how the wheels turn to tell that's its shifting to a higher gear. Just a thought.

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It's the gearbox shaft that the plate clutch goes on, that needs constant rotating while you are trying to get a gear to change..  Or you can do as Gw suggests and jack the rear end and turn the wheels.. same effect.

I'm not really sure what you should expect when you move the reverse interlock arm(the one with the cable attached), but it should turn and it should prevent you getting into reverse.. As long as it seems to be moving, and doing something, then I think we can assume that part is ok.

Then reattach that gear shift mechanism to the front of shaft 17, and, remembering not to let the shaft move forwards, try changing gears..while rotating the gearbox shafts lots.

 

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Just thought to mention..  seems obvious to me, and no doubt Gw, but I forgot to mention..  when you are doing all that gear shaft rotating, the other shaft in the gearbox has to be able to rotate as well.. which means you need the back wheels off the ground. If you are trying to get the gears to change with the wheels still on the ground then you have to rotate the gearbox shaft backwards and forwards and rock the bike back and forwards so both shafts are moving relative to one other..

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Ok, I’ve had the wheels jacked up using them to turn the shaft. I located the reverse interlock and got the cable off. I may never get it back on but it’s off for now. I had to go to a friend’s house today and was loading my power chair on the carrier on the back of my car and it flipped with me and I hit my head on the concrete. Didn’t knock me out but almost. Haven’t got hit that hard since I boxed in the military. I’m feeling ok right now so I’m going to look for some movement in that reverse interlock. I’ll let you know what I find. It’s not in the best of places to get to but appears to be better from the right side of the atv as you would be sitting on it. I’m heading out there now. Thanks again.

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Crikey mate..  take it easy. we get silly enough with age without falling on our heads..  Haha.. well I do anyway !

Here's a picture of the interlock. Part 8 is the assembled shaft with the spring and washers shown just above it already fitted to it. That spring is trying to rotate that shaft in an clockwise direction as you look at it from behind. You need to check there is some spring tension on that arm coming out of the back case. You should feel spring resistance if you try to rotate that shaft anti-clockwise, which is the direction the cable pulls it.

Rear.png

Edited by Mech
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I had written all this and was about to submit it and my daughter-in-law called to check on me and I lost it all. I got to the interlock and could push it with my thumb. It felt like it only moved about 1/8 or little more and sprung back, it felt more like a switch than anything. I went ahead and put the cable back on it there’s a lot of slack in it right now . I went ahead and put the plate #9 the spring #8 and the arm #7 on the sub-gear spindle and tried the manual shifter. I’m getting three gears out of it and back down to neutral. But that’s all I can get. I think I’ve put about a mile on this thing spinning the tires. But couldn’t shift any more than three. Which is better than it was. Would adding the change clutch make any difference at this time? Just wondering I have no Idea. Thanks for getting me this far. Maybe it’ll all come together somehow. 

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That's good. If you got five gears earlier by turning the star washer then we will get them again using the shifter now it's working on three gears. The wheels or gearbox shaft or both need turning is all. If we just turn one shaft in the gearbox while trying to shift gears, it can happen that the dogs that are meant to engage just press together without engaging, but with enough drag because of the start washer and roller, that both gearbox shafts start turning and the dogs never move relative to one other and so we can't get it right into gear..

I think you should put the clutches etc back in there now and put the case on..  Then we should be able to drive it with the manual shift, and if we can, then we can try the electric shift.

If you get it all back together, try shifting into first and testing that gear works, then come to a stop and try to get second, and try that for a bit, then come to a complete stop and try third.. and so on and on.. Only try shifting when the quad's stopped rolling, with the engine running, and only one gear at a time, with a bit of riding under power to check each one. That will test them with out any complications from anything but the shift mechanisms.

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 Yeah , hope I didn’t break the driveway. I think you were right about the nuts on the clutches. I was talking about the socket size and I think you had the bolt or shaft size. The wet clutch is 20mm and the change clutch is 18mm. I don’t understand why they have the same socket size. But they were both were 27mm socket. I didn’t make myself clear about that. At x-ray now. I’ve got to order parts before I can do more . Lock nuts and I’m putting a new handle bar control on it since the screws had been removed. I’m sure it had gotten water in it at some point it didn’t look too good on inside. What’s a good way to clean connectors. A lot of them look like the have so kind of corrosion on them. Thanks for your help and concern.

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Yeah I was thinking those nut sizes were a bit small from memory, but that's what the book had said..  but it was shaft diameters of course..  Once, when I was younger, I would have clicked to that straight away.. haha.  

I'd just spray electrical connectors with wd40 or an equivalent unless you think they are playing up. If they are actually not making contact then I'd clean them manually, scraping the crud off and pushing them together repeatedly till they made contact, then I'd smother the whole plug with vaseline..

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Have you tried for all five gears again since that first try when you got three gears ?  I think I'd do that before putting the clutches back on. You really need to know the manual shift is working and can get all the gears before you put that front cover on. Now that you've got three gears you should be able to get all five.

Something I forgot to mention is that when the plate clutch isn't on, it's possible that shaft can move back a little, and that may be enough to cause difficult or no shifts. It should be kept pulled forwards as you turn it. I think if you do that and turn it enough you will get all five gears.

It would be really good to confirm that before we proceed..  We have to be methodical here, checking one bit at a time so we know absolutely that part of the operation is right so that if when we get the cover back on it won't shift, we know it's something to do with or in the front cover.

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Ok Mech, I tried the gears again, I put pressure on the change clutch shaft. Pulling out on it. I turned the shaft by hand pulling on it a little as I turned it. I got what felt like five gears with the shaft turning. I could hear the star washer and the arm turning to different sprockets. I went up to fifth and back to neutral. Did it several times. Sometimes it felt like it stopped on the tip of the gear but with the shaft turning it dropped to the bottom of the sprocket. Do you think I should start putting it back together again? And what changed by just taking it apart. Not doing anything but take it down? Just wondering what fixed it. At least I hope fixed it. Want know for sure until I crank it up and try it. By the way I’m having a mare today. Was said to be slang in N.Z. For having a bad day but I guess I blew that one.🙄

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Ha.. might be slang in some parts.. Sorry to hear the day's not going good for you..  The good news is that you are making progress with the quad. That you get all five gears is good. 

All that carry on getting each gear, making sure the roller is moving right to position on the star washer, is normal. It's how it's meant to work, except when it's running the shafts are turning at a few hundred revs. If we try to get the gears to mesh faster, they crash together.

Yes I think you should put the front cover on. I wouldn't be bothering about changing the clutches. They all have measurements you can take if you are worried about how worn they are.

 

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Everything is good. I have to get the parts here, the lock nuts. I got them ordered, not changing out anything as far as the clutches. I’ll get what I can done while I’m waiting on them. Thanks, now if I can put it back together right. Hope it will work I know y’all will. Mech, y’all- southern slang.

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It is habit forming my wife keeps telling me I need to come in out of the heat, but if I do all I do is sit down here thinking about what I need to be doing on it. I don’t know if anyone is following this because they may have to do the same thing , I’m no mechanic but one thing I can tell them is when you take something apart bag it or something and label it so you have all the parts for that one item all together and not all mixed up. I looked on eBay for the lock nuts about all they had was pre-owned, I had pre-owned ones didn’t want to by someone else’s. Hope to get this thing done as soon as they get here. Thanks for sticking around and helping, been a long post. Don’t know what the record is.

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  • 2 weeks later...

That’s a good idea, where did you get magnetic bowls? I also saw on a video a guy used zip ties to put through the parts like washers and clutch parts as they came off the shaft so you could keep them on order.   Thanks for all your help through all this time.

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I’ll have to check them out. Well I got the clutches on and torqued down. I thought I would before putting the cover on and adding oil. I would check the shifting . It’s in neutral the tires rotated easily both directions. It shifted to first the tires could hardly be moved they would move with some force backwards they would not move forward at all. Same for second, when I got to fourth the tires rotated easier backwards and had to be fought to move forward, fifth gear it moved fairly easy backwards but I barely got it to move forward. Is this as it should be or is there something wrong?

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No that is all perfect.

There is a one way clutch/ratchet inside the centrifugal clutch to provide engine braking at low engine revs when the revs are so low the centrifugal clutch would have normally have disconnected.

When you're pushing it with the engine off, the centrifugal clutch is disconnected and so you can turn all the gearbox shafts, the plate clutch, and the centrifugal drum, with the back wheels, but only in reverse. If you push it forwards the one way clutch tries to apply engine braking.

Each higher gear you are in makes it a little easier to turn the engine, which is why it can just be pushed forwards in top, but not in low.

Are you getting reverse ?

Sounds good..  Don't forget to adjust the clutch after it's together, and do that again after a it's been operated a few times..  a half hour or so of use.. Things will settle in.

Hopefully, the electric shift is going to work now.. 

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I understand more now thanks. I was checking the cover in the manual it says it will just slide into place, it goes easily up to the dowels, but there’s a bearing that has to go on the centrifugal clutch shaft it is not just going to slide on the shaft without resistance. If I get it to the dowels should I go ahead and pull it down? Or is there something wrong? Thanks again.

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