Quantcast
Jump to content


2006 trx350te Honda rancher 350 es clutch plates


Ejwill

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't pull it down with the bolts..  It should go on with a bash with your fist..  No more.

If it seems solid, it may be not lined up, the shaft may be dangling down a little ? You might have to lower the case a little to get it lined up, then once the shafts started line up the dowels.

If it feels like it's starting, but tight, check the shaft, polish it with a bit of wet-n-dry. Oil it and the bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply kp3004x4. Well, I have really run into a problem. I decided to check the torque on the centrifugal clutch to make sure it was all the way seated. I put the torque wrench on it and tried the lock nut and it moved without clicking so I kept on and it wouldn’t tighten. I don’t know why it set the first time. I put it on the shaft and ran it almost all the way down the threads by hand to start with. Now this, it’s like the nut is stripped or the shaft is one. It won’t come off or tighten up. I have a dremmel I may try to cut the nut off can get it to go either way, don’t know anything else to do. Man thought I was getting close to rapping this thing up. But my usual luck kicked in. Sorry about this I know y’all were ready for me to get through too. I have no idea what has happened. It’ll come approximately three threads from the end and won’t go any further.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a problem, I would try to get a pry bar and pull the nut towards you, at the same time unscrewing the nut with the ratchet hopefully it will catch and come on off. If you can't get a pry bar in there , maybe you can improvise something to get a little outward pressure on the nut while trying to take it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried a flat tip screw driver and couldn’t get it back there. I’ll try again tomorrow. Had to give it up for tonight to work on a lamp for the wife, practically rebuilding the lamp. If that shaft is messed up too bad when and if I get the nut off. I guess I know what that means, splitting the engine to replace the shaft. Sure was hoping to avoid that. May just get a few bucks out of it for parts. Depends on what the Docs. Say about my neck tomorrow got to have an epidural, can’t hardly turn my head to the right. But that’s the way the mop flops. Thanks for your replies. Won’t have much time in the morning to do anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was kind of afraid you might not be able to get a screwdriver back in there, that's why I suggested the pry bar or tire tool they have like a 30 degree angle on their tip I thought that might, and I stress might get in there, and even if you have to heat it and bend it to an 75 or 90 degree you might be able to get it in there. 

I still rooting for you not splitting the case, when you get the nut off, you can get in there with a dremmell tool with a small flat diamond wheel, it has to be the wheel so you can come into the recessed area straight, so you can't do it with a diamond bit. Then you can get into the damaged threads and straighten them out , hopefully. You do have to have a steady hand and good eyes to do this, although I have done it many times, and I have neither. A lot of people use thread files and that might work good, I have not had much luck with them but it might be because I always buy cheap ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hang in there Ej.. Hopefully it will only be the nut stripped. You did have a washer in there behind the nut I hope..

You might try levering right at the back of the centrifugal clutch trying to lever the whole thing forwards while trying to get the nut to bite and wind off. Just watch out for any possible bending inside there, which you'll feel as a bit of flex from the lever. If the lever comes up feeling solid though then everything will be up on solid metal and you should be ok to apply a bit of pressure.

Hopefully that will get it off, and the doc will fix the neck..  Good luck with it all.

P.S. I'm 67.5 and yeah. everything gets harder !

 

Thread files are good, but I'm picking that they are flat nuts and that the shaft threads should be plenty strong enough to survive their stripping..  The japs are good like that.

It might also be possible to drill into the nut and then split one or both sides away from the shaft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone, it’ll be at least tomorrow before I can do anything. This neck has got to be fixed. Makes it hard to do anything. I’m going to get the nut off and fix the threads used to do it in coal fired plants, not allowed in nukes. Don’t know what happened I put oil on the nut and did have a washer on the shaft with the nut. As I said earlier someone has been working on this atv, the lock nuts were staked into the threads. I cleaned them up and the nut went on by hand with no problem. It was the same on change clutch except where they tried to stake the nut the nut went into the thread space but it looked like the thread area broke off. No idea who could have worked on it my son said he didn’t have it worked on and I haven’t, unless of course the dementia is kicking in but I don’t think so.Thanks again for the replies. Hopefully I’ll get something done on it tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stress..  A good massage does wonders.

I have a lady friend that is just absolutely amazing.. She sees me sitting talking and absently mindedly rubbing my shoulder and says she will have a look at it, then just puts one finger on the spot and gets huge popping noises and instant relief.. just from one touch of a finger.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually it’s severe arthritis, spurs and 2 buldged disc. Makes it hard to do anything on the atv. But I’m not giving up got the nut off waiting on some more parts should be here by the 29th. Hope then to get everything back together again. This time for good, I hope. The threads on the shaft don’t look too bad. The lock nut was staked into the threads so they were messed up when I had to grind the nut off. But I think I can fix that. It would be great if I had a nut die that would fit it, but I’d probably never find one. I’m just going to try to work it out and see what happens. Thanks for hanging in there, maybe when I get the parts I’ll be able to wrap this up. If it works,  if not guess I’ll have to go further.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats great that you got the nut off. You should be able to find a die that will work to cleanup the threads, but if not that bad you may not need to. I have had to do that on cranks before, I just measured the shaft as close as I could I and ordered a die for that mm wasn't sure if it was going to work , but it did. I didn't have a choice because the nut wouldn't even start on the shaft. In your situation I would start the nut on with plenty of oil screw it on if it starts to tighten up from bad threads back off and go a little bit at a time forward and back with a hand ratchet until it goes on smoothly , then take a look at the nut and shaft threads to see if it worked. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd also consider using a thicker or two washers so the nut bears on a different part of the threads.

There are things called thread files that are good for cleaning up damaged threads. Even if the threads have been bashed on the end so that a die nut wouldn't be able to start, with a thread file you can start a little way in and work your way out restoring the threads.

Thread files are square and have two ends and four sides and so have eight different threads on each file.. You just have to choose a metric thread file, and it will do the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the nut on and the threads look ok. I use a dermal with a small cutting wheel and took off the bad threads at the beginning of the shaft, I got it started by hand and ran it up with a ratchet. So I think I can make it work. I took both clutches off to check the threads on both the change clutch threads were a little messed up at the beginning but I was able to fix them too,. The only problem I’m having now is it won’t shift with the manual shifter again. The manual shifter hub is still moving the sub gear spindle so they must still be connected. I turned the tires and no shifting. I was able to get to the star shifter and move it a couple of sprockets but the tires didn’t feel like it was in the low gears. They turned like they were still in neutral. But the indicator light , green light was not lit. So I don’t know if there’s any need to continue putting it together now or not. Thanks for y’all’s replies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s it , nothing that I know of everything is the same except the clutches are off and it shifted ok before with them off that’s why I went ahead with the assembly. The manual shifter feels solid like it can’t move. It still has the play in it that moves the gear spindle a little, which I think that’s all it’s supposed to move. I have no idea. What gets me is the star sprocket when I move it it doesn’t seem to affect the tire rotation. They still turn freely like in neutral.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, keep turning the wheels.

After the first assembly you were getting the gears, then you pulled the two clutches off and cleaned up the threads and reassembled it, Now  you can still turn the star washer which means the gear shift forks inside are moving, The gears have to be moving on their shafts or the star wouldn't rotate. As long as the gear shafts are pulled forwards by the clutches and nuts it can't be wrong. Even if the shafts were back it would still get some gears, or jamb in some gears  There's a small false neutral between each gear where one gear has slid out of mesh and the next one is about to slide into mesh. As long as the star's detent  is finding it's way to the bottom of the star's valley, you will get a gear. Check that is is self moving during shifts so the spring loaded detent is bottoming out.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, my mistake, sorry when I took the clutches off I took everything off to clean all up. Should have done it in the first place. When I put it back together except for the clutches I put everything on the sub gear except the ‘#%!!!** arm’ that goes behind the plate and spring . I knew something didn’t look right so I checked where I kept my parts and saw it, put it on and tried the manual shifter and it went through all 5 of the gears and back to neutral, had to roll the tires but it did shift to all the gears. I guess I can put it back together now and hope for the best. Waiting for weather and me to cool off a little. Hate this hot weather. Would like to move to Alaska, I can handle the cold better. You can always put on more clothes but you can only take off so much without getting locked up. Anyway I’ll start putting it back together later this afternoon unless y’all can think of something else I need to do first. Thanks for the replies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True, True I’ve got the clutches on and torqued. The nut on the change clutch was too deep for the socket to get a grip. So I added another washer, that worked as far as torquing it but don’t know if that changed anything. I’m having trouble getting the cover to go on jam up to the housing . It will go up to the dowels, but that leaves a gap between the cover and the housing. Didn’t know if adding the washer made a difference or not. If I go to any gear I can’t turn the tires at all. I feel like they should turn backwards at least. But don’t know still feels like it’s shifting with the manual shifter. Just seems like the tires are locked up. Hope don’t need to pull the clutches again but if I do, I do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The extra washer won't have made any difference, the clutches are already pulled back by the nut, and the nut clears the case, and the depth of the dowels is more than the thickness of a washer.

Does it feel locked up if the cover is off ? Is the cover touching one of the clutches , stopping it from turning ? I take it that it turns when it's not in gear, so it has to be that shift clutch touching somewhere I would be pretty sure.

It should all be back as it was after the first assembly, with the sprag allowing it to turn one way but not the other depending whether you are in forwards or reverse.

You could look at the gear between the centrifugal and the shift clutches and see if they look aligned, that might reveal something.

Check the shift clutches mechanism is all in it's proper place..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is really hard to turn the change clutch even in neutral. If I put a ratchet and socket on it (the nut), I can turn it but that’s the only way. The sub gear spindle keeps coming undone from the manual shifter shaft I have to put pressure on the manual shifter handle to make them stay mated up. I don’t have any help so I have to tie it so there’s pressure on it if I attempt putting the cover on and off. I think it may be hitting the change clutch sides when I try to put it on but not sure. Still it is so hard to turn without the cover on. Don’t understand what has changed. I have the sub gear spindle put together right now as it will shift up to fifth and back to neutral. But something just doesn’t seem quite right to me but what do I know. Just doesn’t seem right for the tires to be locked up like they are. Thanks for getting back to me on this I know you are about as tired of it as I am.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





    • By Suzukiquad
      If you had to choose one mod that you couldn't live without, or had to recommend one what would it be? 
    • By Sofaspud
      My 2008 can-am Outlander 800r is having hard shifting issues. Does anyone have a fix for this ?
    • By Am2007
      Hi everyone,
      Outlander 2006 400 XT i have replace the startor cover and right after i did that the oil light is on and not turn off, i check the wires and checked the oil level, everything seem to be normal quad is starting without any problem and rev just fine. i did not want to ride it since im not sure if it is faulty sensor or not so just be safe i did not let it run more the a minute or so. 
      I have read in the owner manual that i need to clean the oil strainer every 200hr unfortunately i never did that, my service manual that i have does not even indicate of such a thing. so i did some search around and it seem like canam split the manual into 3 parts
      owner manual
      service manual
      engine manual
      I have the first 2 but i can not find the last one, part number 219100232. If someone can guide me where do i find the oil strainer so i can clean it i will appreciate it.   im going to do an oil pressure test tomorrow to check how many PSI i have, just to make sure.
      Thanks
    • By p5200
      Hello folks, my machine wound up with I think water in the tank etc. It runs but speeds up and slows back down randomly. When not running I don't see gas dripping  from the drain nipple on bottom of float bowl and drain screw is closed tight. With normal idle speed I see no leaking. When the idle speed increases quite a bit on it's own, gas appears to start slowly dripping from float bowl drain nipple? I'm wondering if the carb is flooding and the gas is actually coming from higher up and just appears, to be coming out of nipple but, is actually running down the sides of the nipple? I put a kit in the factory Mikuni carb last year after sitting for a while and I think the gas in the jug I used had drawn moisture. I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and clean everything out. I was just curious if anyone else thinks it's probably something in the carb and is, acutally a flooding problem? Thanks Folks! 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...