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Backfires thru carb


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Engine starts and idles fine. When I give it throttle it spits and back fires thru carb. I replace the carb. Replaced stator, spark plug. Check gas flow. Checked voltage 13.6, please help

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Well..  lean mixture can cause backfires into the carb.

A blocked exhaust could possibly do it but it would probably have some subtle symptoms as you tried to ride it.. It would start to go sluggish before the backfires started.

What make and model is this thing .. just so we know what sort of carb it will have.

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Posted (edited)

Well if you give it a run for a few minutes, pushing it till it just starts to falter, then pull over and turn off without idling, and take the spark-plug out it might look lean, a light colour or white.

You could try checking the exhaust isn't blocked. In the manuals they say to take a bung out of the back of the muffler every so often and rev it to clear it of gunk. I've done it though and never got anything out. It's best to test for a blocked exhaust by loosening it at the head and muffler brackets so it can leak real bad at the head. If it runs a bit better like that then it's blocked. but it has to leak real bad. It needs to be ten mills away from the head.

Mainly though I'd suspect a lean mixture. The old carb may have needed work, and new aftermarket carbs are almost never set up right for a bike. Aftermarket carbs are tuned in a sort of average way to run on any bike, but not well on any.

I'd suggest cleaning and setting to original carb myself.. it's always a better option than buying a new one and then having to do work on it anyway to get it going right.

Edited by Mech
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Thats good practice, probably most carbs dont need new jets and needle, sometimes the float needle needs replacing, and i use the new bowl gasket. I think kits are mostly for peace of mind, i have rebuilt my carb, diaphram doesnt come in the kit anyway. I usually buy kits for carbs i know nothing about, dont really know if the parts are original or from a cheap kit, or have been drilled out.

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In the olden days, when cars had carbs, then I used to buy kits, but jap bike carbs are so damn good they just always seem to come right with a clean and adjust. Wear in the slides more likely to be the death of them than anything else I find.

 

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  • 1 month later...

For the record...

If there's a problem with the inlet valve it shows up worse at idle than when the throttle's open or it's revving. Same with inlet/vacuum leaks, they show up bad at idle but become almost un-noticable once the revs get up. If either thing is so bad it can cause a miss or backfire at revs, then it will be bad enough to almost prevent idling..

Possible exception being a very weak inlet valve spring.. which is pretty much a thing of the past..

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9 hours ago, Mech said:

For the record...

If there's a problem with the inlet valve it shows up worse at idle than when the throttle's open or it's revving. Same with inlet/vacuum leaks, they show up bad at idle but become almost un-noticable once the revs get up. If either thing is so bad it can cause a miss or backfire at revs, then it will be bad enough to almost prevent idling..

Possible exception being a very weak inlet valve spring.. which is pretty much a thing of the past..

I beg to differ. As a mechanic for 40+ years, I’ve seen plenty of burnt intake valves behave the way the OP describes the symptoms.

A flat exhaust cam lobe will also cause a spit back through the carb.

A compression check is needed.

 

Edited by MickeyD
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I've never seen a burnt inlet valve in my life. I've seen them distorted, and with distorted seats, and with tight tappets, but never burnt.

Regardless, how did these machines with burnt inlet valves idle ?

In my experience anything that causes compression to be forced back into the inlet plays havoc with the induction, and so the idle. Once there is a greater amount of, and faster, air flow the effect becomes less pronounced.

 

And a spit back of unburnt fuel through the carb is not the same thing as a back-fire through the carb.

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  • 2 weeks later...

here's a trick.  Put a piece of tape around your throttle, and another piece o the handle bar.  Next, mark out idle, 1/4, 1/2 , 3/4and full throttle with a marker on the tape.   With the bike running, make the throttle go to each position.  You will then know which jet is incorrectly jetted.  The bike'sgas is metered by different overlapping jets in the carb.  You need to figure out what position you are running lean on, and then richen it up one jet or two sizes up.

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1 hour ago, 800CCBRAAAAAAP said:

here's a trick.  Put a piece of tape around your throttle, and another piece o the handle bar.  Next, mark out idle, 1/4, 1/2 , 3/4and full throttle with a marker on the tape.   With the bike running, make the throttle go to each position.  You will then know which jet is incorrectly jetted.  The bike'sgas is metered by different overlapping jets in the carb.  You need to figure out what position you are running lean on, and then richen it up one jet or two sizes up.

Trying to pictured this procedure with a lever style throttle.

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