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Was given a 1997 Bayou 220 for free that had sat in the back of a barn for almost 9 years. Owner had parked it because his kids got too big for it, and they have other bigger bikes, said when it was parked it ran fine. He gave it to me as a trade from some networking I did in his home.
*Marvels Mystery Oil bath down the cylinder to free up the piston rings (I let sit for 24hrs)
*New battery as old one was shot from not having a charge for 8 years. I took my multimeter to the entire wiring harness and cleaned EVERY contact possible, as not even the headlights were working. After a few hours, everything electrical is now working. Headlights, green dash light, red reverse light (goes on and off with changing from reverse to neutral), and starter spinning strong (after a conversation with my mallet).
*Drained old oil (no glitter!) 2qts fresh oil with new filter.
*CDI was shot-- had zero spark and using a multimeter up the wiring harness everything was good up to the CDI—replaced with new one along with new plug wire and new plug now have excellent spark
The original carb was a total loss. I'm assuming it was parked full of fuel with the fuel switch on. It looked like they found it buried in the sand and put it on, it was so eaten and corroded my thumb went through it trying to get it apart—so new carb. I did also inspect the intake and none of what was in the carb made it into the engine, thankfully.
After oil bath, compression was still low—threw some brake cleaner down the intake and noticed smoke escaping from the head gasket—took the head off and saw the original head gasket was completely shot. Replaced that, and now compression is up to 90 from 50. I'm assuming, it'll need to go through a few heat cycles for the compression to really build back up (had the same issue with my 2000 Kodiak 400 from siting for 5yrs after a few heat cycles went to 180)
While the head was off, I did a leak test on the valves and liquid stayed, so no signs of gaps in the valves sealing. Also took a look at the piston and wall and both are in excellent shape, very clean conditions.
At this point, the bike should fire off or at least pop… but now that compression is back it's sucking air in though both the carb AND the exhaust pipe. Putting my hand on the pipe (no muffler) I can feel it sucking air in, doing the same with the back of the carb, I can feel it sucking air there as well. It isn't pushing air out anywhere.
I've checked timing and it's correct. The TDC mark on the flywheel is lined up with the spot on inspection hole. The mark on the timing gear in the head is lined up with the mark on the casting there as well, so timing is spot on. I don't believe it has a leak from the exhaust valve due to the leak test I did. I also don't believe a valve is sticking, I can see them both moving just fine when looking through the inspection holes.
In the past, I've had a bike have intake from exhaust and exhaust going out carb, but that was the timing being off, which doesn't seem to be the issue here.
Any advice on this would a big help as I'm stumped on what could be causing double air intake. Chances are it might be something simple that I'm not even thinking of.
At this point, I'm about to order a box of hair from Amazon Prime from all the head scratching going on.
Hi guys, I really have my hands full here with my 2014 Polaris Sportsman 550 X2, Is it possible all these issues can be related and traced back to something electronic? Its so confusing because sometimes the PS do work, sometimes the 4 wheel drive do work, sometimes the ATV starts at the turn of the key, other times I have to cross out the starter solenoid to start the ATV, Sometimes the 4 wheel drives works fine in reverse, other times only in forward, then other times no 4 wheel drive at all (meaning i can see the front drive shaft going into the front end and its turning but neither wheel is pulling, then other times only 1 wheel is pulling) Would a faulty voltage regulator cause these issues? I hate to pull my front end off the ATV if its something electronic! I cannot simple replace the EPS unit unless i was 100% sure it was quit. But when i see that it works sometimes, I'm not convinced that the unit needs to be replaced, and especially when all these other issues are in my opinion electrical related. I have tried to clean all the plugins that i know for............ Is there anything I can do to figure this out?
Any suggestion is MUCH appreciated.
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