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I picked up a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2X4 a week or so back in non running condition, apparently they said it needed a new carburetor or a battery, I cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and got it running on idle and without choke now and it shifts into all the gears even into reverse. Aside from making me bounce a little when trying to start out with a bit of throttle the shock suffice to say needs work. Anyways I made a video of it running and would like your opinions on it, as to how it sounds while running. It seems like it has a little whine I'm not sure why that is maybe someone can tell me what it is. Anyways here is the video.
I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
By Scott Sirr
I need to figure out how to clean/fix or replace my neutral switch assembly On my 2008 Yamaha big bear 400 as generally the neutral light doesn’t come on when it is in neutral. To get it to come on I have to wiggle the foot shifter and hold it in just the right spot.
I have googled it and can’t find much on the 400’s. I can’t find a service manual online and the parts manual is super vague.
I think it is in the right side engine cover area, but not certain.
Any help would be great. thanks
By Bronson Weddle
I have a 1999 250 Yamaha bear tracker was told it needed a coil to run got into it to day found out that the kill switch was wired together then I found were they put a new cdi on it they cut all the plugs off the stator wires and the cdi wires I found bits and pieces of wireing diagrams blue pick up wire to red and white green wire to white and green wire rolled it over Had a test light on the coil wire it showed there was juice going to it but no spark on the plug and the coil is a brand new one put it on before trying to test the spark did I miss something or have something hooked up wrong already have plans on a new cdi and stator and pick up coil before I go that far like to hear it run. Thank you for the help in advance
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By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike/ATV. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
Here's the deal... I'm a first time atv buyer and have been studying hard all aspects of buying and evaluating these things for a used purchase. Now after months of looking everywhere I finally found a local private seller through word of mouth that may be offering a hell of a deal. Story is...
Guy's got a 2012 Yamaha Griz 550 w/ EPS with 2900 miles and 250 hours on it and hes asking $4900. Says he got it from NPA? in Cincinnati for $4400 and paid $125 to ship it. After new tires, brakes and oil he says he's got $5000 into it coming from a dealer-only wholesale auction. I've only got $4500 to spend and really stressed that and he says he'll sell it to me if the guy coming on Friday doesn't pay the full $4900 price he's asking.
So yeah fairly excited about the prospects here. This one blue books for something like $5500-$5800 retail.
But I'm still a little too wet behind the ears still to be confident about evaluating these things used so I'm cramming as much info as I can before I go take a look at it. So don't want to get burned.
So couple questions...
1- I've seen some with more and less miles than the 2900 this one has. But have been taught it's not so much the mileage as how they were put on. Anyone have insight about this specific model with almost 3000 miles and 250 hours on it?
2- Are there any special problems the 2012 550 EPS Griz has that I should be looking out for?
If youve looked at some of the factory mud machines youve noticed many have upgraded footpegs to help keep your feet firmly grounded. Rox Speed FX released universal foot pegs earlier this year for anyone. See what you think of them: REVIEW: Rox Speed FX ATV Foot Pegs - WeekendATV.com
Polaris Ranger Utility Vehicle Owners Earn $200 (Atlanta)
DO YOU OWN A POLARIS RANGER 500 OR 570? EARN $200
We are a market research company that pays people for their time and opinions. We are not selling anything; we are only interested in your opinion which will help the manufacturers develop better products in the future.
We are going to be conducting a Utility Vehicle focus group research study in Atlanta on Wednesday and Thursday June 11th. & 12th. at 6:00 PM. You will have an opportunity to share your opinion regarding current and future utility vehicle designs and will be paid $200.00 for your time.
If you don't own one of these utility vehicles, please tell your friends about this study.
WE ARE LOOKING FOR MODEL YEARS 2010 OR NEWER.
REGISTRATION OR BILL OF SALE IS REQUIRED AS PROOF OF OWNERSHIP.
Please call A Point of View Research ASAP to see if you qualify and register for one of the days.
Hello everybody, I need some advice on buying my next utility ATV 4x4. Ive narrowed it down to Arctic Cat, Yamaha, Polaris, or Can Am. Im wanting something with a 500-850 motor. I def do not want a 1000. They just seem too big and heavy. I am 6ft-5in tall and medium build. I currently drive a 1998 Yamaha Big Bear 4x2 350 and its simply too small for my body size. I also own a 2000 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4 which fits me quite nice and has a comfortable large seat. My wife loves driving the Popo since its automatic, so I get stuck driving the Yamaha if she tags along for ride since its semi auto shift. Id like to trade up the Big Bear for a larger, reliable, capable, trail and mud machine. I must have 4 wheel drive and IRS. I like the reliability of Yamaha, but I must admit my Popo rides quite smooth. I just really dislike the Polaris CVT belt noise and the lag time it requires to move atv after u punch the throttle. I havent tested the new 2013 or 2013 popo sportsman to compare. Im not into extreme mudding, but my friends and I do snorkel our quads and drive thru deep water on occasion. So I would like an ATV that is water friendly, if there is such a thing. LOL! Ive pondered a can am xmr 650 but am worried the can am might be expensive to maintain or repair. I really like the look of the AC Mud Pro, but I have no problem modifying a base model to suit my needs. Whatever bike I buy MUST be large in frame size. I dont need gobs of power but I prefer a larger frame size. My Big bear and my buddys Honda Rancher are just too small. My butt actually hits the rear rack when I ride if I sit bk too far. Please share your thoughts, good or bad. I am not brand loyal, I just want a well made, larger frame bike for trails and some mud.
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