Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
Similar Tagged Content
By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike/ATV. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
Here's the deal... I'm a first time atv buyer and have been studying hard all aspects of buying and evaluating these things for a used purchase. Now after months of looking everywhere I finally found a local private seller through word of mouth that may be offering a hell of a deal. Story is...
Guy's got a 2012 Yamaha Griz 550 w/ EPS with 2900 miles and 250 hours on it and hes asking $4900. Says he got it from NPA? in Cincinnati for $4400 and paid $125 to ship it. After new tires, brakes and oil he says he's got $5000 into it coming from a dealer-only wholesale auction. I've only got $4500 to spend and really stressed that and he says he'll sell it to me if the guy coming on Friday doesn't pay the full $4900 price he's asking.
So yeah fairly excited about the prospects here. This one blue books for something like $5500-$5800 retail.
But I'm still a little too wet behind the ears still to be confident about evaluating these things used so I'm cramming as much info as I can before I go take a look at it. So don't want to get burned.
So couple questions...
1- I've seen some with more and less miles than the 2900 this one has. But have been taught it's not so much the mileage as how they were put on. Anyone have insight about this specific model with almost 3000 miles and 250 hours on it?
2- Are there any special problems the 2012 550 EPS Griz has that I should be looking out for?
If youve looked at some of the factory mud machines youve noticed many have upgraded footpegs to help keep your feet firmly grounded. Rox Speed FX released universal foot pegs earlier this year for anyone. See what you think of them: REVIEW: Rox Speed FX ATV Foot Pegs - WeekendATV.com
Polaris Ranger Utility Vehicle Owners Earn $200 (Atlanta)
DO YOU OWN A POLARIS RANGER 500 OR 570? EARN $200
We are a market research company that pays people for their time and opinions. We are not selling anything; we are only interested in your opinion which will help the manufacturers develop better products in the future.
We are going to be conducting a Utility Vehicle focus group research study in Atlanta on Wednesday and Thursday June 11th. & 12th. at 6:00 PM. You will have an opportunity to share your opinion regarding current and future utility vehicle designs and will be paid $200.00 for your time.
If you don't own one of these utility vehicles, please tell your friends about this study.
WE ARE LOOKING FOR MODEL YEARS 2010 OR NEWER.
REGISTRATION OR BILL OF SALE IS REQUIRED AS PROOF OF OWNERSHIP.
Please call A Point of View Research ASAP to see if you qualify and register for one of the days.
Hello everybody, I need some advice on buying my next utility ATV 4x4. Ive narrowed it down to Arctic Cat, Yamaha, Polaris, or Can Am. Im wanting something with a 500-850 motor. I def do not want a 1000. They just seem too big and heavy. I am 6ft-5in tall and medium build. I currently drive a 1998 Yamaha Big Bear 4x2 350 and its simply too small for my body size. I also own a 2000 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4 which fits me quite nice and has a comfortable large seat. My wife loves driving the Popo since its automatic, so I get stuck driving the Yamaha if she tags along for ride since its semi auto shift. Id like to trade up the Big Bear for a larger, reliable, capable, trail and mud machine. I must have 4 wheel drive and IRS. I like the reliability of Yamaha, but I must admit my Popo rides quite smooth. I just really dislike the Polaris CVT belt noise and the lag time it requires to move atv after u punch the throttle. I havent tested the new 2013 or 2013 popo sportsman to compare. Im not into extreme mudding, but my friends and I do snorkel our quads and drive thru deep water on occasion. So I would like an ATV that is water friendly, if there is such a thing. LOL! Ive pondered a can am xmr 650 but am worried the can am might be expensive to maintain or repair. I really like the look of the AC Mud Pro, but I have no problem modifying a base model to suit my needs. Whatever bike I buy MUST be large in frame size. I dont need gobs of power but I prefer a larger frame size. My Big bear and my buddys Honda Rancher are just too small. My butt actually hits the rear rack when I ride if I sit bk too far. Please share your thoughts, good or bad. I am not brand loyal, I just want a well made, larger frame bike for trails and some mud.
Well got another one for the elders here. I recently picked up a Honda Trx 250
in pretty rough shape. Brought it home cleaned it up if thats possible. Motor was
seized, Pretty bad shape. I unseized the motor, got it to spin over, Got it to crank on its
own with the start button. Got neutral light, but no spark. Fuses good wiring is old but looks
intact. Went to check cdi box, here is where the problem lies, I dont know the year. The last one
was under the plastic on the crossmember, this one has none. Looks like a sticker was there at one time.
I checked the left side of frame by foot peg and nothing. Cant find any vin number. I need to know the year
to try to locate a cdi. One clue is this one appears to have 2 cdi boxes. One is a little larger than the other but
plugs look identical to eachother. One has green connectors and the other has white connectors. Is this only
on certain year model that has duel cdi boxes? I also need a download for a trx 250 Im thinking its about a 1985 or 86
but just a guess. Before changing i would like to check some voltages but need a manual for this. Any guess on how to
identify and or get a download for this one would be great. Wont let me post pics only .08 MB Down load available. Thanks in advance Az
Hello guys! New to the forum, and fairly new to ATVs. I've driven them, but never owned one. Now I do own one. Just picked it up today. It's a 1999 Yamaha Big Bear 350. It's been through some stuff. The guy I got it from told me the previous owner removed the front diff because he didn't want to replace the half shaft. So it's 2wd, even though it's supposed to be 4x4. Lovely. I can deal with that for now.
More importantly, I need to get it running. The carb needs to be rebuilt. The guy I got it from said he sprayed it all out and it still didn't work. I'm concerned he might have damaged it or not put all the parts back. I was looking at a replacement carb, and the OEM parts is $600. I'd rather not spend $600 if there are any other options. I have seen carbs on Amazon and eBay that are in the $40 - $100 range that say they fit. Anyone have experience with these? I'm going to get a rebuild kit for the current carb just to make sure that won't fix it.
Thats the first thing with it. Secondly, it was completely rewired. I need to find a original wiring diagram so I can put it back how it was, with a key and all. Currently it's wired with just a rocker switch. Any sources for a service manual that would include wiring diagrams?
Thirdly, is the Big Bear 350 a good atv? I picked it up for $700. It does start and run when you spray starting fluid into the air intake, so I am not concerned about the engine being bad. I plan to use it for the farm, running around and carrying things with it like minerals and feed and such. Not really for mudding and things like that. How good is the 99 350?
I am certain I will have more questions as I examine it more, but that's all for now. Thanks in advance for the assistance!
Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be.
It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.