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Who Makes the Best Bang for the Buck???
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I was reading another forum recently about fuel leaks and possibility of fire happening. Reminded me of an incident I had a few years ago while working at a Can Am dealership. The quad was a stolen & recovered Outlander 650 that had been tampered with. These quads have an electronic safety system, similar to their DESS system on the sleds. You cannot bypass the key switch and get spark without a computer with factory software. Anyway, I was trying to determine what was damaged since the thief had attempted to hot wire various electronic parts. I got all the extra wires removed and things looked back to stock. Pulled the spark plugs and was going to check for ignition and if the starter still worked. Well, they both worked alright and guess what - the cylinder was flooded with fuel! Instant flames with gas spraying all over...great!! I managed to use my hands to put out the fire, good thing I had on gloves (but choked they were ruined of course, haha). Seems it's possible to flood an engine with efi when you put power straight to the injectors, doh! As in much of life, you cannot take things for granted (I'd only seen carbs flood like that). And even though it had spark, the quad still needed a new ECM to run - that part alone was $1200. So lets hear your stories, crazy stuff happens every day I'm sure.
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
By Rock Ledge Homestead
I bought this four-wheeler used for my son's birthday last week. It wasn't running when I got it but after a new battery and some tinkering it has been running for 5 days probably 8-10 hours of run time.
Today after 1 hour My son wanted to wash it, I showed him how to be careful not getting water near the engine. We were careful but after we washed it and let it dry the motor starts but the transmission slips and won't really go forward. Even if I pick the back of the four wheeler up the wheels only go forward a tiny bit. It's as if something is slipping inside. But it worked fine right before the wash.
Not sure what brand. I was told it was 90 cc's the VIN is attached. Is it 90 or 110ccs?
No air filter came with it. Using a some old stockings until I figure out what air filter to order.
My son is so bummed so I want to get it back up to speed but also teach him how to work on it.
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Having a problem figuring out what size hex wrench this part takes. It's labeled #9 at the extreme bottom right of the diagram...
I have a half inch hex and that's def not it, too small. No parts store in town has anything that size so I'm gonna have to special order.
Any idea what size driver this part takes?
Educating myself getting ready to buy my first 4x4 and have some questions.
1 - Engine size. One of my wants is to be able to pull a trailer up a trail with a decent amount of camping gear piled in, so I've been told to either look for a good size motor or one with hi-lo gears. From what I've learned so far it seems that something like a Sportsman 500 HO or 550 Griz would do that job fairly well. But for the sake of opening up my options could I possibly look into a smaller engine than these if it had hi-lo? Put another way...what's the smallest engine size I should be looking for on a machine that has hi-lo considering my pulling needs?
2 - Can add power steering? Is it possible to add power steering to a model that didn't come with it, but other versions of that same year's model did? For example some of the 2008 Griz 550s came with PS and some didn't. If I found one that didn't have it could I reasonably assume I could add it later considering the frame and equipment has probably already been designed to work with it?
3- Mileage and age. Most of the machines I'm seeing have between 500-1200 or so miles and I'm wondering how many is too many? Seen some with 2-3000+ and I'm most def staying away from those. But whats the mileage limit where you can expect major things (read expensive) to start going wrong with the machine? I've heard someone generally speaking say they would rather take a 2006 with 1000 miles on it vs a 2012 with 2000. Would most people agree?
Just got this 700 grizz and I'm adding a hitch ball on the back just for the sake of having a good trailer tie down point. Not sure what I'd be towing with the bike in the future but I suppose I'd like to get whatever ball size would be most common on the things I'd be likely to tow with an ATV.
So which size yall think would be best...1 7/8", 2", or 2 5/16" ?
All my studs on the wheels have the beginning 3/8 inch worn by rust as have each lugnut, so their integrity is very poor. Especially since not much of the stud extends beyond the wheel to begin with, and several of the lug nuts have no purchase at all, so they won't even stay on. My question first off is, "what is the thread size of these studs, and how difficult are they to punch out and replace"? I see new ones are available. I would hate to take a hammer to the old stud to knock it out only to break the wheel hub.
Does anyone have any knowledge of this situation?
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