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The rear brakes on this are hydraulic and manual. The hydraulic part is all messed up so I disconnected it all and want to go just manual on the rear. I got it all put back together but doesn't seem to work to well, like not enough pressure. The manual says I should mark the casing before taking it apart which I didn't read until to late. Any ideas? I put new brake pads on.
Title pretty much says it all. After fixing my throttle body I had a look at the tires. on my last ride my buddy hit a branch on his side wall with enough force to jar the quad off track., no Damage but I thought I would review mine.
The discussion about what to bring with on the trail also got me thinking about my tire health.
It looks like my rear tires are older, the front ones only really seem to have some knob wear and are in good shape. I absolutely can't get new tires this year, but I still want to ride it and reduce my risk. I am thinking of getting a couple of tubes for my rears sort of pre-emptively change them instead of having to do an urgent tube install on the trail.
Then next year I will get 2 new rears and probably the year after get to new front leaving me 2 decent spares.
I figure $50 in tubes is decent to reduce the risk until I can spend on new tires.
Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....
My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires.... Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?
It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"
Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.
By Ed Zeppeli
I have some wobble in my right rear wheel. Too much wobble.
So I've torn into it and will need two bearings and two (different) seals. I'd like to get them locally if possible but need to know the number on the sides of the bearings and seals as I don't know that my bearing shop can source them by vehicle model. I'm told they're very common bearings.
Any idea what the numbers are if mine end up being illegible?
Fixing up a 1998 King Quad 300. The rear brake was locked up, and the owner tried to force it free and snapped the axle.
I disconnected the brake cable, and tapped on the backing plate with a soft mallet to get the brake freed up. When I pulled off the brake drum a bunch of nasty rust water came out.
Once I had the axle out, I popped the boot off so I could see the inner u joint so I could phase/synchronize it with the outer. There was a flat steel disc floating around in the boot, looks like it used to be pressed into the end of the axle. Glad I got that out of there before it munched up the joint.
The book says the yokes should be aligned, I couldn't get mine aligned. They were always 7 degrees off from each other. A bit frustrating, maybe that's within the tolerance limits?
But I got it all back together and it runs great.
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I'm starting this thread to list the ATVs and UTVs that currently have Bluetooth connectivity as OEM and any aftermarket products out there. Lets list and have a discussion about any new devices or atvs that are coming to the market with Bluetooth connectivity. This is probably biased towards atvs with electronic dash clusters, but with the technology changing so fast, it's good to know what's new and up 'n coming.
I read this on ATVRider...
Polaris Sportsman XP1000
The top of the line Polaris Sportsman XP1000 has an instrument cluster that features Bluetooth connectivity. This way, if you get a phone call, voice mail or text while out on the trail, you can glance down at the screen and decide if its important enough to stop and dig your phone out of your pocket.
How many atvs with electronic dashboards do you think will start to have this type of connectivity?
Check out Polaris' Ride Command: http://www.polaris.com/en-us/atv-ranger-rzr/touch-screen
ok it will start up an run but quits a lot till it gets warm, but has a bad miss an wont idle, I have a brand new Honda carb on it, good gas flow, new plug, but when I let the throttle go below a quarter, it backfires through carb an tail pipe:confused: so it has never had any electrical work or mechanical work done...it just started all the sudden, I'm think it may have ignition coil breaking down, or cdi box going bad...anyone had this trouble before? let me know what you did to fix it. thanks:skeptic:
I want to upgrade, not sure what size tires will fit and do I need wheel spacers and lift kit?
What performance mods do I need to do for the larger tires or don't need to ?
Like the Maxxis Vipr tires.
Maxxis Vipr front 27x9R-14
Maxxis Vipr Rear 27x11R-14
What size wheel will work? offset?
Stock 25x10-12 Rears and 25x8-12 Fronts
Stick with 12 inch wheels and get taller tires?
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