Quantcast
Jump to content


1994 Polaris 400 Sportsman Engine Problems


Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recently picked up this 94 polaris for real cheap it ran but barely..their are many problems i need your guys help figuring out.

1.)when the atv is put into reverse the engines rpms start slowing down and the engine starts clunking and begins to shake, then it dies i dont understand why it does this?

2.) the engine rocks back and forth a lot? is their anything beside the motor mounts that i should check?

3.)even though it is shifted into reverse it does not engage..is this something that just needs adjusting?

4.) I took the exhaust off and realized that the previous owner broke one of the bolts holding the exhaust to the engine how could i get this bolt out? should i take the engine apart?

5.) The engine is covered in oil and grease could that all be because of the exhaust barely staying on? or is their something worse that i should worry about

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is very possible that the exhaust leak is responsible for the motor being covered. Is there a portion of the bolt sticking out or is it flush with the motor. Other than the mounts, I don't know what you would check for the motor moving.

I can't really help you on the other questions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should GUNK that motor and see where the oil is coming from.

I like BOTS idea, if that does not work, get someone to weld a 1/2 inch nut to the broken bolt, or drill the thing out enough to get an easy out bolt remover in there.

Have you checked the oil level?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. inspect your clutch assembly, ignition timing, and carb.

2. check the mounts, ignition timing and carb.

3. again, the clutch.

4. if none of the other suggestions work, drill a hole in the stud and use an easy-out, make sure to use plenty of penetrating lubricant, i recommend PB Blaster, also, a sharp rap on the stud with a hammer before you attempt to remove it may help shock the threads loose.

5. fix the ehaust and go from there, keep in mind, if it is actually oil on the motor and not just carbon buildup, and it is coming from the exhaust leak, that indicates that you are getting oil in the combustion area, which is an indication that you may have worn piston, rings, cylinder bore or valves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

yea i have done some engine work but still having problems with the reverse. have u checked out the project room i have been updating photos of the project and its coming together pretty good...today i just mounted the front dirt devil tires on the rims,replacing the really old stockers. and i just placed an order for a whole bunch of parts...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By BenJammin
      I did a compression test on my 2005 Bombardier Traxter 650 CVT and it's 75 PSI.  service manual only talks about leak down test.  No specification for engine compression the manual.  What does 75 PSI tell me?  Thank in advance.
       
      A little history of this machine.  640 miles.  Picked it up about 2 years ago, not running. Probably the computer.  Tested all circuits and confirm it was the computer.  Long story short, I watched a Youtube video and fixed the computer. ATV now started and runs.  BUT, it tops out 20 MPH.  I cleaned the carb 3 times also using a Mikuni carb kit after the second time.  Slide in carb is going up and down.  Only adjustment for fuel is at 1.5 turns out.  NGK Sparkplug had soot on main part but brown on the electrode.  Champion sparkplug is brown.  I check CVT clutches and they both appear to engage like they suppose to.  Checked valve clearance it's 0.00, I can't get any feeler gauges in-between.  I check timing chain I believe it's in the correct position and hasn't skipped.  I removed muffler plug and drilled into muffler to try and make sure it wasn't plugged.
    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By mehim
      Hi everyone. 
      Let me explain the thread title. 
      My husband and I are very active in the nudist community, and we have stayed at many and most of the mainstream nudist and clothing optional campgrounds in the USA. We are now approaching our retirement and would like to start a podcast to share those off the road / backwoods / little known camping areas where nudity is allowed. We have purchased a 5th wheel camping trailer with a rear garage for the ATV and now need some good reports on the one to buy. 
      We are most interested in a side by side unit but would love to get your thoughts. 
      Feel free to stop by and say Hi and ask anything you would like to better understand what we are looking for in an offroad unit. 
      Thanks for reading and hope to hear from you. 

    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
×
×
  • Create New...