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By Jd101506
Hi all!
I've got a 1988 LT4WD that I am working on. It sat for almost two decades in a shed, so I replaced both the carb and the fuel pump (Pump was rusty, carb was ok, but had a pin hole in the bowl itself?). Now, I went el cheapo and I replaced BOTH with Chinese aftermarket Carb and Fuel pump. Now is where it gets confusing:
So I did this SAME thing on my other Quad, a 1988 LT300E. They take the same PN carb, and a similar fuel pump, (One has a 90 degree bend in the vacuum port). I've been battling the four wheeler a bit with some electrical issues, but I noticed that at idle it runs GREAT when I gravity feed fuel from a burp can into the fuel bowl of the carb... But as soon as I put it on the fuel pump from the tank, it idles EXTREMELY low and smokes a little. To me, this indicated that the carb itself was running rich. I adjusted it a little on the LT300e, but I could never seem to get it right, it still will slowly die at idle when warm, but ironically if I CHOKE the motor, it'll start up and run. I dont know if this is because the RPM increases? But the quad will run around the yard great at RPM and then die at idle.
Now, the LT4WD. I ended up with a faulty fuel pump for my second (I think the spring isn't seated inside as I can hear one rattling around) so when I installed it it WOULD NOT pump fuel. So I ended up swapping the LT300 pump onto the LT4WD. Boom, pumps fuel. I put it all back together and got my tires on. I ran it around my yard and it exhibits the SAME symptoms as the LT300e! It will run around at RPM, but it will not stay running at idle, it drops realllllly low RPM and will start smoking a little as if its running rich. Again, when I ran it with the fuel pump OFF I didn't have this issue.
In my head I'm thinking it would be a mixture screw OR float issue... But the mixture screw doesn't seem to help me on either, and the bowls are not over flowing (I checked both overflow lines). Is there something I'm missing here thats obvious? Is there a vacuum line or something I missed? Maybe some configuration or something I missed? I reviewed the manual and nothing stood out to me.
Conclusion: Two different Suzuki fourwheelers, two different carbs (Both are chinese Ebay carbs) that BOTH run well when I mainline fuel from a drip can INTO the bowls, BOTH do not keep idle and seem to run extremely rich as they run great at RPM but slowly die at idle. Adjustment screws, idle screws be damned.
I ended up ordering a new Suzuki OEM fuel pump for ~90$ just to have it and see if it makes a difference. Any advice here though would be SUPER appreciated!
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By JGou
Have an axis 500 bought from Lowes.. Have had to adjust the shift linkage 1/2 doz times in the last year.. Now the UTV is stuck in neutral.. Seems to shift ok through gears but neutral light never changes, and wont move at all when running.
Only have 13 miles on this 4x4 and have had no other problems... Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thx, Jay
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By geezer99
Well, I bought the Axis 500 sold at Lowes for $8999 a couple days ago. This post will be about my impressions as I use, fix, and abuse the machine. I will add to the post as I gain experience with it.
Thanks to other posters on this site warning of new machines with loose hardware, one of my first actions was to crawl all over it checking fluids and connections. Zirks were all freshly greased, fluids in engine, and gear boxes were up to level. One of the little gas struts that help lift the bed to dump was dangling with only one end connected, and the other strut had not been fully tightened.
Here are some things I don't like:
The rear gearbox does not have a differential in it. It is essentially a solid axle. Tight turns on lawn will leave tracks, and turns are not as tight on pavement. In my case this won't matter much, but if you plan to use it on a lawn, this will create tracks on turns.
To check engine oil you need to remove both front seats and a plastic cover. This according to the manual. I'm pretty sure it can be checked with that stuff in place, either from under or above, but that remains to be seen.
I am not used to a CVT transmission. I am used to a clutch and multiple gears. This one requires giving it plenty of gas out of the hole and then backing off to get it to shift up. I'm sure I will get used to it, but I'd like to be able to take off quietly if I want to.
The doors have bungie cords to act as springs to close them. I removed the driver door so I would not need to fight the constant pressure to close. Problem solved. I will leave the passenger door as is. Gotta keep the grandkids safe.
The status display is hard to read if the sun is on it.
Here is some stuff I like:
I was concerned about there being enough torque to slowly climb a steep hill. There is. I will elaborate more on this when I've had it on my steeper trails.
The display has dedicated lights to indicate status of gear position, low oil pressure, over temp, and a bunch of other stuff. This helps a beginner with feedback that an action taken was successful.
The sparsity of knobs on the tires dig in well on most surfaces. I bet they wear out fast on pavement.
The tilt bed has a tail gate that is easy to operate. Much like early Japan pickups.
Steering is responsive and little slack. Remains to be seen how long to get loose since the u-joints are operating at quite sharp angles.
Seats are pretty nice. Will be interesting to see how long it will take me to poke a screw driver though them.
Seat belts are included to hold grand kids in. Won't go over 5 mph if both aren't buckled. Yeah, it works to buckle them empty. Doing this leaves the belt high on back, so you don't have to sit on it.
Hauling it home, my trailer wheel wells were too close together to clear the tires of the UTV. This required driving it off center a bit, with one set of tires inside the wells and one side driving over the wheel well. Creeping over the one well required climbing a 10 inch vertical well. The ability to lock the front axle differential kept both front wheels pulling as I drove the one side up and over the wheel well. The guys at Lowes were impressed. They won't touch any but an unobstructed flat trailer loading.
As I gain more experience I will add to this topic,
tom
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By rockfresh15
Hey all, I'm a 2-stroke quad/dirt bike guy, new to utility atvs. Just picked up a pretty clean looking 2005 Kodiak 450 4x4 with about 1,000 hours on it for my dad.
The first thing I noticed when we got home was oil leaking from a seal on the rear axle. Pictured below. I've been staring at this frigan Partzilla diagram for days and can't figure out what part this is. What is it and what likely needs replacing/fixing?
Also wouldn't mind any recommendations on the next things to check. The owner said nothing's been replaced on it but oil since it's been in service. Def needs new rear tires.
Thanks all!
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