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By LMI
Hi all. New to the forum & quads. Seems like a great place full of info.
I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700. I need a battery. I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types. I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire. RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140. Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS. How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
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By tds7
The battery on my Big Bear drops completely down in the battery compartment nothing sticks up to grip too, plus there is only 1/8" clearance along the sides, no way to get a grip on it to pull up out of battery compartment. I thought about putting a piece nylon strap under the battery and leaving enough up each side to give me something to pull it up out ff the battery compartment or using a big zip tie around the battery.
Any others have any ideas or have had this issue.
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By BillR94
I picked up this ATV that had no spark. The previous owner said he was driving it and it died and would not start. He discovered it had no spark. He replaced the CDI and the coil with no luck. He got tired of it and I bought it. I replaced the stater and now it has strong spark. Now, it starts for a second or two then dies. It will not stay running. I have checked the timing and it is spot on. The valves are adjusted correctly. I see no warn issues with the cam. I put the original CDI and coil back on it. Same problem exists. Compression is at 65 psi (has decompression mechanism),
I took off the muffler in case the issue was clogged pipes. No change. I replaced the spark plug. No change. The carb was an aftermarket so I put a Niche carb on with no change. I bypassed the fuel pump and that did nothing to solve the problem.
I don't know if this is a carb issue or an ignition issue. I am looking around locally for an OEM carb to try out but not sure that will fix the problem.
Can anyone help me solve this problem. I am running out of ideas.
Thank you for your time
Bill
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By wjmedic
Recently rebuilt front end on this Polaris 400. New axles, bearings, seals, control arm bushings, Hilliard clutch thoroughly cleaned and inspected with no damage noted.
Everything put back to together. Placed bike on jack stands all four wheels off the ground, started in 2 WD switched to AWD both front tires spinning, when AWD turned
off right front wheel will not disengage from AWD. Checked voltage at connectors both left and right connectors have no voltage with AWD switch off, and both have 12.4V
when AWD switch is turned on. Repeated turning switch on and off several times with no change in condition. I am thinking this must be something mechanical with the
Hilliard clutch on the right hub ie. weak spring or stuck rollers on the Hilliard clutch assembly (Is this a logical thought?) any ideas on trouble shooting this before I disassemble the
right front hub again
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By sunn
Has anyone had experience with the installation of the Optional RH Side Panel Close Off Kit as shown as p/n 2207445 which is supposed to help control the heat on the right side on my legs? Right now that panel is wide open with excess heat on my leg.
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