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1999 Recon Smoking/Ticking


TxRECON
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Hey guys new to the forum but I gotta question. Ive owned this recon for 11 years never skipped a beat until I sunk it on accident a couple years ago. I changed the oil n such when it happened but after that, the recon sat in storage for 2 years since ive been in college. Well dad wants it sold so im tryin to get it back into shape repainting racks, fixing breaks and gettin it to run right. I just rebuilt my carb and got it absolutely spotless runs good now! My problem is the bike smokes pretty good and i can hear a ticking noise in the head. Now the tick im almost positive is just a valve adjustment which I can do BUT the smoke... Ive heard the most likely culprit is the rings which from what ive read doesnt sound like a big deal to replace? What all is involved in replacing the rings, cost, how difficult, ect. any pics would be great as well.

Thanks,

Dakotah

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let's see

the ticking is prob a valve, you're right there. But as Hondas wear, they tend to go tight and get quiet. I would adjust them and see if that does it, but I'll bet it is a bent valve from the swim. water doesn't compress.

Does it run OK but just smoke? It just about has to be rings, in which case you'll be taking the head off, so if you have a bent valve as suspected, no big deal. In the Honda forum there are Honda manuals available- download the one you need.

the rings could be stuck from sitting...

start with an oil change and a valve adjust and let's see what it's like after that. OK?

Edited by Raptor8
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Kinda curious if it just smokes when the engines cold? Or always? If it's just as the engines warms up, probably got some cracked valve seals. The rings shouldnt be too bad to replace, but you might wanna at least take the jug down to the machinist and hone it at minimum. And you should know what all the job entails, I uploaded the manual for ya! =)

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Thanks for the replies guys to answer questions yes it runs good it just smokes. And ill be tearin into the head after I order my parts. Thanks again rocky for that service manual that thing is incredible! I used it last night to tear into the rear differential because I got alot of rear brake issues. Cant believe how detailed those things are. My dad was envious so I downloaded one for his '97 foreman 400. Now question. Ive read a lil bit on boring the head and such, I just take it to a machine shop and get them to bore it to whatever ring size I want? The website im ordering from has like 4 different sizes any advantage on goin bigger bore n rings? I havent gotten a chance to look at the job details for it yet but it doesnt sound bad.

On the rear brakes, im replacing the rear pads and i noticed one of them is half way unglued like ive heard people talk about. My issue is the brake arm on the diff doesnt move real easy hence my problem so im thinkin fresh pads and clean everything real good and apply fresh grease where needed should suffice? im also having to deal with the damm foot brake which is frozen solid.

sorry for all the questions theres just not a whole lot of people i know that are knowledgable enough to help me. thanks again guys any input is appreciated.

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you're on the right track.

You can't bore it enuf to really make a performance difference but if you do bore it, a good machinist will want the new piston and rings in his hand before he'll bore it. I agree with RMH a clean up is prob all you'll need, a machinist can measure the jug for you and tell you if it's worn out or not.

Brakes: everyhting clean and dry- you may as well throw some new pads on it while it's apart right? the lever should move smoothly- may need lube, perhaps a little sanding.

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I guess we will find out when i tear down boy that makes me nervous. ya i ordered new rear pads and everything is gettin cleaned up just waiting on parts now after talkin to the company i ordered from it sounds eeexpensive to bore, new piston and rings wow. $$$$$ so hopefully it wont be that worn and i can get away with stock rings or the .25 rings which apparently can be used without boring or a new piston.

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it may be just vavle guides. the fastest way to tell that is to do a dry compression test and record the numbers. then put 3 or 4 squirts of engine oil in the cylinder and redo the compression test. if there is more than 20psi difference between wet and dry test it is going past the rings. if it is 20 psi or less then you have leaking/worn valve guides and seals. i would do this test before jumping into rings etc.

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IMO, you are taking the head off regardless, if you are going to go that far, you might as well just replace everything you can, inside of your budget. Piston and/or rings, a fresh bore or hone, even if it isn't totally necessary. I would aslo check the head and see if a vavle grind or guide replacement will be needed soon, if so...?

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