Quantcast
Jump to content


Chains n' studs n' plow... eh Boy.


Recommended Posts

Greetings,

I have a 2000 Trailboss 325 2x4. In years past I've always put rear chains on it to help with some of the thaw/freeze that happens during snow plowing season. Chains work well when I remain on concrete but a frozen pond is another issue. Last year I decided to plow the adjacent pond for ice skating. Having the plow blade on the ice pretty much prevents me from anything but very wide turns.

Any tips on plowing a frozen pond? Would chains or studs on the front tires help at all? How much of a noticeable difference? I'm also working on a Zamboni mod so impressions from chains or studs won't impact skating.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

studs would work great on the ice but would pull out on rough surfaces... if you had an extra set of tires an wheels for the front it would work great.. chains will akso work on the ice but not as well as the studs .. you can try the chains and see how it does and it would not damage the tires trying them and would be cheaper than extra tires and wheels with studs in them ... cheap screw in studs can and will pull out on rough pavement ... but the good expensive one's would do alot better ...

Edited by CK1999_400ex
Link to comment
Share on other sites

studs would work great on the ice but would pull out on rough surfaces... if you had an extra set of tires an wheels for the front it would work great.. chains will akso work on the ice but not as well as the studs .. you can try the chains and see how it does and it would not damage the tires trying them and would be cheaper than extra tires and wheels with studs in them ...

Studs would not pull out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By McG75
      Sorry I suck at these forums so if you see this submitted under update status, my bad. Anyhow this is a new shock for a 96 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 it fits my 96 Yamaha Timberwolf 250 4x4 perfectly. Little narrower are the bottom than the original but everything else is perfect. I extended it to almost a half in from full extension because I’m pushing 350 pounds.  It rides and hold me well. So if any of y'allRace driven shock. have been looking for one and didn’t want to do the research here it is. 





    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...