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jetting with closed airbox lid


marioweldinginc

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I know Im detuning but its getting annoying riding with an open airbox. I ordered a closed lid cuz sucking in water is not fun. I have the chain drive apart and im waiting for my 13t front sprocket to come in. That should make up for any torque loss with the closed box right?

My questions are, while I have the carb apart for its winter cleaning do I have to rejet for the closed lid? It already has a Dynojet stage 2 kit in it. Also should I go back to the colder spark plug (DPR8Z). In there already is a DPR9Z

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lol idk i havent seen him on here recently....... let me know how much top speed u loose with that 13t sprocket!

I will probably lose about the same top speed as the 14T because I am also stepping up to a 22" rear tire. I wanted the torque of a 14T but with the taller tire it would be like resorting back to the stock 15T. A bigger rear sprocket is out of the question as Im trying to gain ground clearance.

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I will probably lose about the same top speed as the 14T because I am also stepping up to a 22" rear tire. I wanted the torque of a 14T but with the taller tire it would be like resorting back to the stock 15T. A bigger rear sprocket is out of the question as Im trying to gain ground clearance.

i see...... let me no the torque difference:yes: and if ya like it

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I`d loose the air lid !!! Get an after market one:yes: You will notice a difference !!

No way i suck up way too much water now. Its only a matter of time before i do some damage. I drain the airbox approx every half hour and it always has alot.of water in it.

No sand dunes by me only wet trails :-(

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I originally was gunna go with the 14t but i have so much ground clearance problems in the trails I need bigger tires. So why go with a 14t and a 22" rear tire. It would pretty much be like factory according to the gear chart. I do alot of walking speed riding and hate having to finesse the clutch all day to keep from stalling. I am usually behind a 4x4 so they are constantly speeding up and slowing down. My clutch fingers are huge now lol. This is all theory and i hope this combo once set up works for me.

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how much water do you usually have to deal with ? i ran a stock lid but used a hole saw an put 6 evenly spaced 3/4 to 1in holes in it and it really helped with the water probs. i had .. i also used a pre filter lid cover i found on ebay to cover it with to help a little more with the water issue .. and i didnt have 2 change the jet that way ... used lid on ebay is less than 10 buks an is an easy mod to help with water ..

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I should of been more.specific. I run an EHS lid with outerwear membrane. I keep calling it an open airbox . But with that setup im having water issues. When i trek through water i bog down. Im assuming from it splashing up. All my connections (electrical) are packed with dielectic grease. Plus as stated before water collects in the airbox

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i was reading online and i would go with the ehs

Okay so I have both in my possession for my Honda 450R now and I figure I would give a little review to help others in case they get in this situation. First I will tell you why I have both. I originally had the EHS lid and loved it but due to its height I had to switch when I did the airbox lifter and the Houser swingarm with LT linkage.

EHS

Cost - $110 - $120 with color options A bit on the high side as far as cost.

Fit - excellent, it is a stock lid with a bracket (well made) and the outerwear cover attatched

Performance - I felt no difference with the lid off or on. So I am assuming it flows enough not to let my butt dyno feel anything.

Protection - little to no sludge or debris in the airbox after messy rides.

Pro Tec

Cost - $85 - $90

Fit - Sub par. It does not fit like a stock lid. It is a flat aluminum plate with ouuterwear-type material attatched to it. It utilizes the stock clamps but is not a very good seal.

Performance - Again no change in performance so I feel the flow must be pretty good.

Protection - this lid does not seal perfectly but it does offer decent protection from the major splashing and helps with dust. Overall it protects but not as well as the EHS.

If I had to pick a lid based on the quality it would hands down be the EHS. It does weigh a bit more than the Pro Tec. In my situation the Pro Tec is thinner than a stock lid so with the airbox being lifted it clears it much better. I will add some pics to the mix soon. This way you can see for yourself what they look like.

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ok while i was outside before putting on the chain, it started raining lightly. I had the seat off and airbox exposed (remember EHS lid with outwear membrane) and I was watching the water drops pool up on the lid and go right past the membrane. Does the outerwear material lose its effectiveness after a while? There are no rips or tears. I know its not waterproof but at this point its not even slightly water resistant.

Edited by marioweldinginc
i did a whoopsy
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I know Im detuning but its getting annoying riding with an open airbox. I ordered a closed lid cuz sucking in water is not fun. I have the chain drive apart and im waiting for my 13t front sprocket to come in. That should make up for any torque loss with the closed box right?

My questions are, while I have the carb apart for its winter cleaning do I have to rejet for the closed lid? It already has a Dynojet stage 2 kit in it. Also should I go back to the colder spark plug (DPR8Z). In there already is a DPR9Z

no it wont it can give your bike more launch power but make your bike run slower in mph it will make your bike wheelie more your gear ratio will be differnt for every tooth you take off the front sprocket you will lose 3 teeth off the rear srocket your oem is a 15 -38 hondas biggest rear sproket is a 42 i would go with a 14-42 thts what i run on my bikebut my motor has been upgraded 4mil crank 460 big bore kit with astage 2 hot cam and a 38-42 electron carb on a open are box actualy the air box has been removed and added a k/n air filter but remember the more jetting done to your carb the more air is required.

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