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I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
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'11 700 Grizz here and I'm in the middle of disassembling one of my front knuckles to do a boot replace and I've most def reached a stopping point. So far I've got the caliper off as well as the 2 castle nuts for the knuckle and the 1 for the steering arm, but for the life of me I can't separate any of those joints the castle nuts were securing. I've beat on all of them using a big rubber mallet with no luck at all. Is there something else holding these joints together I haven't found maybe?
My next ideas are to try to detach the shock from the lower control arm so maybe that'll give way a little easier, as well as letting some PB blaster soak into the joints before pounding on them again. Thought I should ask on her first before using the PB though.
Last time I had to separate a joint like these was on my '96 Cherokee replacing one of my steering linkages. Had to get a special 2 prong fork tool to insert into the joint and pound away before it came apart. For some reason I don't think that'll be the answer for this one though.
I'm all ears.
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If it's up, put it down.
We need it up, you need it down.
You don't hear us complaining about you leaving it down.
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Just say it!
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That's what we do.
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Don't ask us.
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we meant the other one
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tell us how you want it done.
If you already know best how to do it,
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and neither do we.
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Peach, for example, is a fruit, not A color.
Pumpkin is also a fruit.
We have no idea what mauve is.
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We will act like nothing's wrong.
We know you are lying, but it is just not worth the hassle.
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Expect an answer you don't want to hear.
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But did you know men really don't mind that?
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Family & Friends & Quads - Bikes & Trikes ..... the Good things in life
How Much Horse Power can I have and Still go to Heaven !
Familiar with EXIF data? My primary camera is a 1dMKII. I was doing work for a couple of magazines and a few quad accessory vendors when I bought the MKII, so the MK II worked out great. I had been using a 10D before the 1dMKII... and there's no comparison. The speed, quality, and durability of the 1D line is awe inspiring. In the same weekend that I took the shot I posted, I spent about an hour shooting in heavy rain without any kind of rain cover. I was soaked but the MKII and L lenses kept kicking. I ended up getting shots that many of the other photog's missed because their equipment wasn't able to take the rain. The Canon 1D line is amazing.
I'm not a "pro", but I am a photographer...I d/l'd your pic and checked the EXIF
The 1D/L lens combo is pretty water sealed, so doesn't surprise me .
Saw you shot @ 120mm....you using the 70-200?
I'm still stuck with two 20Ds....LOL! Does what I want for now (read that as I'M BROKE!)
I checked out your site......some really nice work!
Would like to see some more of your MX stuff.....
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