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Really great advise and info. It all makes absolute sense. I did have a problem with the float needle in the beginning. I replaced it and reconditioned the carb. This is also when I did the top end. Thanks guys

Good call Mech! I have never seen this happen but generally the first thing i do is check the oil and if its over full or smells gassy or feels just not oily, change it immediately. Glad you got that sorted out.

The fuel starts evaporating out of the oil once it gets just slightly heated and the fuel filled fumes drowns the engine... just like flooding. Seen it plenty of times. At the same time the thin oil, carried with this excessive amount of fuming, gets past the usual oil/air separation systems and fills the air-box with oily fumes which separate out in the box. The float needle allowed the sump fill, but may not be the cause. Float needles can seal plenty well enough for maintaining the fuel level during a days use, but let enough leak through to flood an engine over night if the fuel tap doesn't get turned off. If the needle valve worked perfectly it wouldn't happen, but a lot of needle valves that seem to work just fine during the day can fill the sump if the tap leaks. I'd check the fuel tap because that test is so simple.. Turn it off, pull the hose and watch for a drip. I'd open and close it a few times checking it closed every time. If the tap is working ok then I'd check how the bike runs and consider cleaning the carb, but I'd check whether the float level seemed to be ok and was ok during a days use.. It is possible that someone forgot to turn the tap off one day, or, the tank breather didn't work ad pressurised the tank and caused the problem.

That should not have fixed anything but diluted oil, it should still run with gas in the oil just doesnt lubricate well and toast your engine. Generally gas gets into the crankcase when the needle and seat is bad and lets gas seep by and into the crankcase.

I'm familiar with the clutches on these quads, the difference is they utilize an engine braking system which is not on snowmobile CVT clutches. If everything in there checked out, then you may still have a problem relating to the electronic module. Could be its still not working properly.... Since they are likely not available new anymore, you'd have to find a "known good" used one which would be kind of rare. Good luck on your quest! (BTW, that's an inside joke - the quad you have was originally named the Quest I believe, at least here in Canada it was, haha)

This ATV has the CVT clutch. I watched the clutch and both pulleys engage as I think they should. This setup looks very similar to how a snowmobile clutch works.

I changed the oil and the problem went away. How does fuel get into the oil?

This is much clearer and understandable than the diagram I found. Again, Thank You. Cavry

This is what I'm looking at. output.pdf

Do you have a wiring diagram ?

I'll try that in a few minutes. That still leaves the heavy brown wire. Thank You.

The diagrams I looked at described both the starter relay and the starter solenoid as "relay". I think we should describe the one with the starter cables attached as the starter solenoid.. to avoid confusion. In the diagrams I looked at the colours were different but the solenoid had two small wires operating it, one of which was black, and that one went to the starter relay and bought the 12v to the start solenoid to close it's contacts. The other one was supplying an earth to the solenoids windings. Then there was a white wire which in my diagram was shown as being connected to the battery's positive post, but which could be attached to the solenoid's battery cable post/terminal and it would serve the same purpose of supplying 12v power to the main fuse and then the bike.

Wiring shows White and Brown to solenoid blades. Then a black wire from starter circuit relay to solenoid. I am confused, where is that black wire supposed to connect? Thanks for any help Cavry

Those other two wires only act to kill the ignition. If you look at the switch(#3) in the diagram, it's showing that when the key is is the on position, the power is switched to the brown wire(which feeds starter and lights etc), and the ignition kill wires are not connected. When it's in the off position the kill wires are connected and the power wires are not connected.

Well if the bike is like that diagram I posted, and the two wires you are connecting are the red and brown wires that go to part #3 in that diagram(which is the key switch), then it means the key switch has a bad contact or bad connection in it or it's wires/plug. Your wires are just by-passing the contacts in the key switch.

Guys I'm at a heading shaking my head at things now so If I take a jump wire from the brown wire from bike side and add a jump wire to the red wire on key switch side my start button works all lights bike starts up . Why is adding power from red wire bike side to brown wire from key side making the start button work someone plz help me with this you don't have to have key on I'm so so lost I just want to ride

Good advise. Thanks for the info, i am not really expierienced with that particular engine with automatic valve adjusters.

Those early Can Am's weren't that popular and those engines didn't stay in production after the v-twins arrived. It's worth checking into the clutch operation, maybe there's something that's failed in there preventing the full shift and limiting the rpm's??

Good to know. Thanks. I'm kind of doing shot gun troubleshooting at this point. I replaced the speed sensor, no change. I bought an aftermarket carburetor and actually runs worse.

Already had the throttle body off and it wasn't really dirty. Cleaned it anyway with Brakleen followed with carb cleaner. Only time it threw a code after I cleaned it (probably residual solvent in a sensor. Have drained the gas, put in fresh gas and seafoam, but same thing, no change. I haven't pulled the injectors, but they ohm within range. Like I said, I am at a loss and Vaseline might be the only way? BTW, for all those that don't know, on expensive equipment you can put it out to bid. If I need a throttle body, I got a quote/bid for $825 which is much better than the $1,245 from John Deere.

Those old Suzukis are great machines, they did them right.

Agreed! Thanks for the info. Great information there from research, not found in any books.

Yeah dealers are like that, i think their philosophy is " if you have enough to play,you have enough to pay". I would try taking the throttle body off and cleaning it, there is probably a sensor in there that gets gummed up over time, certainly wouldnt hurt, and you might get it done without taking it off, i have done it that way, but you can clean it better by taking it off. You also might try first Berrymans B12 Chem tool in the gas, its a very good fuel injector, carb cleaner available at Wal Mart and most Auto Parts stores, i have had good luck with that cleaning up gummy injectors and throttle bodys.

Hello to the group! I have had a Quad for many years. I have a 1995 Suzuki LTF-4WD. Our family had 6 between all of us at one time. Now down to 3 as they aged out. This site has good information on repairing and getting the parts that are needed to keep them running. I started with a Yamaha Tri moto 125 that I sill have. Going to clean the carb and sell that soon. I also have a Honda Pioneer 500 so that my Wife can ride easier than sitting behind me on the Quad.. We use both the quad and UTV to check trails on our hunting land.

In May 2019, my wife and I went on a two week land and sea cruise trip to Alaska. One of the excursions was an ATV tour outside of Denali national Park. I knew then that atvs were in our future. I bought our first ATVs about 9 months after that trip.