A little NZ to USA translation.. DTI gauge - Dial indicator and stand Gas Axed - cutting torched Gudgeon pin Wrist pin or piston pin 16mm - 5/8 " 160mm - 6"

The cooler should have signs of oil, but it might have drained away by the time you got to it. You need to clean that cooler out, and when you put the motor back together you want to leave the return of the cooler off and in a bucket to check it's flowing and to flush it out with clean oil. For one crank it's barely worth setting up the stuff you need, for ongoing work it's cheap though. You'll need a thick steel plate(14/16mm) with a wide slot gas-axed in it that will fit between the two crank webs and around the con rod nicely, a dti gauge and stand for it(not too dear and handy for lots of stuff), and some sort of set up that has two "centers". Centers are just round rods with 60 degree tapers on the ends that fit into the ends of the crank so you can spin the crank on them without any wobble. The centers don't have to be anything fancy at all, you could just grind them with a bench grinder if you are careful. To do the pulling/pressing you can use threaded rods or a hydraulic puller and a bit of box section or chunky angle iron, or a twenty ton press. To set up a "center" arrangement you could make the two centers and fit them into the gudgeon pin holes of two big conrods off some truck or old car, then use the cap holding bolts and two steel plates to clamp them to a long steel strap or angle iron, the idea being that you can slide them along the strap to get the crank in between the centers and then together so the crank spins by it's ends between the centers. They need to slide nicely so you can get them a bit tight in the ends of the crank so there's no wobble, and you need to be able to get the crank in and out easily because you are going to need to take it out of there after every measure to hit the crank with a hammer to do the adjusting, then back in for another measure. You'll also need some drills to make holes in the thick steel plate for the 14/16mm threaded rods. The thick plate with the conrod slot has to be wide/big enough to poke out the sides of the crank far enough that you can drill two holes that will be directly in line with the crank pin you want to press out, or so the two legged puller can grip it on opposite sides of the crank pin. I use a round plate about 160mm diam, but it could be square.. As long as it's strong still after the slot is in it. Once all these things are arranged you can do most cranks. The actual work involved to overhaul the crank is quite minimum. As little as an hour and a half once you've done a few and got the idea about what you are doing and how hard to tap them to align things.